live threading radial joints???
- Thread starter Jaden
- Start date
It doesn't exist.
Plus the pitch is weird.
And really, there is no need for it unless you want to use really hard inserts .
The tap , taps dead nuts if the hole is straight.
It does not wander .
Plus the pitch is weird.
And really, there is no need for it unless you want to use really hard inserts .
The tap , taps dead nuts if the hole is straight.
It does not wander .
I don't see the problem...
I'm looking at the radial pin right now and the concave is exactly the same on both sides, I don't see why you couldn't make a router bit like bob DZ uses that is rounded to that diameter and just set the TPI to 8 and back it out while the router is on???
I mean you ARE right about the radial tap working perfectly fine. I was just wondering. I mean you should also be able to do live threading on a metal lathe with a rounded bit in radial for making pins... I was considering making some G-10 Radial pins..
Jaden
I'm looking at the radial pin right now and the concave is exactly the same on both sides, I don't see why you couldn't make a router bit like bob DZ uses that is rounded to that diameter and just set the TPI to 8 and back it out while the router is on???
I mean you ARE right about the radial tap working perfectly fine. I was just wondering. I mean you should also be able to do live threading on a metal lathe with a rounded bit in radial for making pins... I was considering making some G-10 Radial pins..
Jaden
G10 radial pins will not lock and you have to check the tightness as you play as the shaft backs off. Have seen a bunch of cues with G10 radial and they all do the same thing, you tighten and then back off and you hear and feel it pop. Talk to the people that own them and they tell you they have to retighten all the time. Has something to do with the pin flexing and not enough treads.
There's a way around that too.
If you make a hybrid radial pin. That is to say, you thread the g-10 and center bore it out and glue in a steel rod. It would have less flex, but would slightly reduce weight and have the G-10 pin feel.
Jaden
If you make a hybrid radial pin. That is to say, you thread the g-10 and center bore it out and glue in a steel rod. It would have less flex, but would slightly reduce weight and have the G-10 pin feel.
Jaden
Also thinking of using the material I use for my jump break tips..
I'm also thinking of doing some pins with the material I use for my jump break tips. I think it would make an excellent material for joint pins and it is a black color that would look pretty cool and be unique.
I prefer using A-joints to coring, so it would help on the denser wood cues like cocobolo and ebony to bring down the weight.
Jaden
I'm also thinking of doing some pins with the material I use for my jump break tips. I think it would make an excellent material for joint pins and it is a black color that would look pretty cool and be unique.
I prefer using A-joints to coring, so it would help on the denser wood cues like cocobolo and ebony to bring down the weight.
Jaden
What G-10 pin feel are you talking about that would be inherent after a steel rod was inserted in it?
Radial pins are not exactly 8 tpi. See the other current thread.
Technically, since taps obviously exist for the thread form, sure, a live threading tool could be specially ground to match the thread form. Since you sound determined despite the answers you are being given, maybe you can visit some machine shops and discuss the idea with them. Let us know what the investment might cost in order to duplicate the results the radial tap gives.
hello???
If I'm making the pin and the shaft, then BOTH would then be 8 TPI. I wouldn't need to visit a machine shop. I would just make the tool myself. Rounded bits are easy enough to buy for cutting the threads on the pin. I would just have to weld two rounded cutting tools onto a steel rod for use in making the router bit for live cutting the threads in the shaft.
Jaden
edit: The only downside I see is that it wouldn't work with other radial pin shafts and the shafts couldn't be used on other radial pin cues.
Also, I have a CNC lathe that I could set the speed to do the 7. whatever threads if I really wanted to bother setting up the sensor for spindle speed control.
If I'm making the pin and the shaft, then BOTH would then be 8 TPI. I wouldn't need to visit a machine shop. I would just make the tool myself. Rounded bits are easy enough to buy for cutting the threads on the pin. I would just have to weld two rounded cutting tools onto a steel rod for use in making the router bit for live cutting the threads in the shaft.
Jaden
edit: The only downside I see is that it wouldn't work with other radial pin shafts and the shafts couldn't be used on other radial pin cues.
Also, I have a CNC lathe that I could set the speed to do the 7. whatever threads if I really wanted to bother setting up the sensor for spindle speed control.
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ANOTHER BASTARD THREAD ????
Please, don't add any more to the confused market.
Make them at 3/8 10 MODIFIED with .308 minor b/c that one is pretty popular now.
3/8 11 with SW NUMBERS. .3125 MINOR. Please don't bastardize this one to .305-.308 minor. It confuses the people out there .
Perfect solution.
If you plan on selling anyone cues with this pin, give them a set of maintenance arbors with each purchase in case they ever need the cue worked on.
My own edit: Let us know how the tool making goes. Post pictures, that would make a great thread.
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Please see the edit.
If I actually started doing this for customers (I probably won't) I would probably setup my CNC lathe to be able to duplicate the TPI of existing radial pins...
Jaden
If I actually started doing this for customers (I probably won't) I would probably setup my CNC lathe to be able to duplicate the TPI of existing radial pins...
Jaden
I had a 1,000 radial pins made on a CNC machining center about 8 or 10 years ago. They used a very large digital comparator to get the measurements and then had the carbide inserts custom made to do the machining.
When the radial pin was first introduced they were by far the best connecting pin being made for one main reason; as long as you can follow directions, your pin will be installed perfectly centered and perfectly straight, EVERY TIME. Absolutely no offset nor yaw and no hydrauliking of the forearm from lack of glue clearance. Now there are other pins with other sizes and pitches that also have an alignment barrell which, I feel, are probably as good as and maybe even better than the radial.
Dick
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RBC
Deceased
This gets a little tricky.
You can't just cut a radius on the side of a cutter and make it fit properly. The down angles would need to match the angle of the threads on the pin. If you look at side of a pin, the threads that are facing you are at an angle. The verticals of your cutting edge should match that angle. If not, the profile just won't quite match up. It may be close enough, but just not quite right.
Royce
You can't just cut a radius on the side of a cutter and make it fit properly. The down angles would need to match the angle of the threads on the pin. If you look at side of a pin, the threads that are facing you are at an angle. The verticals of your cutting edge should match that angle. If not, the profile just won't quite match up. It may be close enough, but just not quite right.
Royce
Your cutting tool will be hard to make for sure.
With cad and skill you can do it. The front part of the tool will be a radius to the centerline, but from the centerline back, it will be an elipse based on the diameter of the tool being made relative to the helix angle of the thread form.
Apart from that,it is all fine.
With cad and skill you can do it. The front part of the tool will be a radius to the centerline, but from the centerline back, it will be an elipse based on the diameter of the tool being made relative to the helix angle of the thread form.
Apart from that,it is all fine.