Logan Lathe Model 200 Project

CrossBone Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My new project
Logan Lathe Model 200, 1943 was when it was made. My Grandfather got a hold of it in the 50's. It is 24" between centers.
I got it home last night. 520 pounds of back breaking labor. It has been setting for a long time. 30 years ago I made a hickory bat on this lathe. I was the last one to use it. My Papaw past away 20 years ago and it is important for me to restore this lathe. It has been in his basement until yesterday. 6 of us dug it out and now it is in the middle of my shop.
The lathe was oiled and stored fairly well, the pan does have rust and a hole. I thought about changing the length to use as a full size lathe, but not sure if that is even possible. I don't have hardly any tooling for it so will need about everything there is. It works so not sure where to start. I have the legs off now and figured I would start by sanding it down, finding a pan (or new size pan and bed with screw). I have to get new belts, chuck. Chuck is 1 1/2 x 8
Also had questions and need your all help.
1) is it possible to change the gear section to make the hole large enough to slide in a butt, it is .81 now.
2) is it possible to change bed length to over 30" with new screw bar and bed
3) make a router attachment and use it to cut down blank forearm squares to roundWinner
4) or should I clean it up, make it work right, add a new chuck and leave it like it is now,winner

So this is what I am needing
1 1/2 x 8 self centering chuck
Steady Rest with bearing on the inside
tools for tool post(and new tool post set up)
attachment to hold a router for turning down foreamrs and handles


Papaw would probably build it to suit his needs.

Thanks for any input
Also if any one has parts or could at least tell me what I may need as far as tooling goes.

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JoeyInCali

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
1. No. You'd have nothing left if you bore the spindle.
2. Looks like a no too since the longer bed for that model is only 7" longer.
http://lathe.com/models.htm

That'd be good for tips, forearm, core and handle tapering.
If you have the steady rest and you can make collets to fit a 1 1/8 or 1 1/4 Id bearing, you can more stuff.

P.S.
That lid cover will eventually come down on your hand hard. I had a 957 and so did my mentor. That thing is not OSHA approved.
 

CrossBone Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I read your earlier post on the lid, already have it off for now. I have a high tower lathe so I am good on the tips, shafts. Guess I will figure out a router bracket to cut down forearms. I put it back together this morning and fired it up, Still works perfect. I took off the motor and put it in the over for an hour on 100 degrees to remove any moisture.
Anyone have any tooling that would fit this one or is there a way to convert it to a more modern tooling set up? also need a chuck, I went on logan actuators website and found some stuff, but didn't know if anyone on here had anything. Belts are shot for sure.
steve
 
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DaveK

pre-proscribed
Silver Member
http://www.loganact.com/

Over the years Scott Logan has been a tremendous contributer to the home-shop-machinist world and they continue to support their old equipment as best they can. Check out the site.

Good luck with your "new" lathe.

<edit ... oops, didn't read the full OP ... I see you know of the Logan Actuator site ... carry on :eek: >

Dave
 
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CrossBone Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was told I could change the tail stock and head stock to 11" to get a bigger bore hole. Not sure if it will work, waiting on Mr. Logan to call me back.
 

ELBeau

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If all you're going to do is turn stuff round, then you can do that with a minimum of additional parts.

Find a dead center that matches the inside taper of your spindle and bypass the chuck completely. That, or true up a dead center in the chuck you already have and be done with it. No need to ever take it out.

You can also make a dedicated router mount that secures directly to the carriage and bypass the toolpost.

Rick Geschrey of Esoteric cues posted some photos of his direct-mount router setup a while back, as well as photos showing a dead center mounted in the headstock spindle taper (see below).

No need for a steady rest- just mount it between centers (headstock and tailstock).

Best of luck with your project.
 

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CrossBone Cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I soaked all the bolts for a couple of weeks, got it all broke down, Had one gear that was missing a tooth, no big deal because I am from the south. Also had one of the smooth drive gears that has a chunk missing on the side wall, going to order both gears. Got the base stripped and repainted, put it back together tonight. Went with a two tone, hammer black and hammer silver. Figure if I am going to be doing fancy cues I might as well have a sharp lathe.

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conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That is looking a lot better now.
I like the style of quite a lot of earlier machine tools.
Neil
 

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
love the old lathe

best of luck with it, and dont be showing any more photos of a CLEAN FLOOR, you are making the rest of us look bad.
 

GBCues

Damn, still .002 TIR!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Who says you can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear???
It looks great!
:thumbup:
Gary
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Why not?

When coring your concentricity will always be better by holding a turned blank on both ends using the rest.

JMO,

Rick

Nice burn marks. Might wanna use a bearing.
How are you going to core when headstock to tailstock is less than 24"?
Use a short drill and flip it over?
My gun drill is 15" long.
For handles I recommend keeping the pieces at 13" long at least
so you have at least a tenon going down the sleeve.
 

JoeyInCali

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Great cleanup job Crossbone.
When I had my 957, I took the parts to my mechanic who had
steam cleaning box. Cleaned the parts then re-oiled them.
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Nice burn marks. Might wanna use a bearing.
How are you going to core when headstock to tailstock is less than 24"?
Use a short drill and flip it over?
My gun drill is 15" long.
For handles I recommend keeping the pieces at 13" long at least
so you have at least a tenon going down the sleeve.

Joe,

The burn mark you refer to is wax for the center rest to ride on. It all gets taper turned.

When the cue is tapered down from 1.375 to .850 at the nose, the wax and friction mark from 2 minutes of coring is just a fading memory but the concentricity of the gun drill hole to the OD remains.

With only 24", he still may be able to gun drill a 12.5 inch piece from one side if he got a 13" gun drill with a Morse taper and chucked up the piece just right. It would be close. The distance between the back of the jaws and the entrance to the spindle bore would be a critical dimension. Removing the tail stock chuck gives the extra room required. Sterling will make you a 13" gun drill like that.

JMO,

Rick

Same piece as finished fore arm.

 
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