Low Deflection Shaft

I knew this would be Your reply! Real Simple, for 3/4 ball, "Aim the tip between the center of the OB and the edge." "For 2/3 ball in between 3/4 ball and the edge."...
So "between" is your idea of an exact description? How many different shot alignments do you suppose are "between" those two alignments? Only one?

pj
chgo
 
So, according to the text in Bold Red posted by You, No System/method is 100% accurate. If a player has an 'Half Ball' shot only 5' away they can Not rely on "Aiming the center of the tip at the edge of the OB to produce a True 1/2 ball contact?"

Whether LD, CF or standard shaft?
To take it one step further if the center of the tip is at the edge of the OB, the CB center is also at the edge of the OB, wouldn't the CB EDGE be at the center of the OB simultaneously? And wouldn't the right CB EDGE or left CB EDGE be overlaying the OB at some point from edge to edge on the OB from straight in to almost 90 degrees? Clearly visible with no "feel" or guesswork?
 
Describe some "exact parts of the CB and OB" defined by a system. For instance, describe some exact alignments between the few exact fractional alignments we're familiar with.
The RIGHT CB EDGE or the LEFT CB EDGE on any and every part of the OB. CCB is 1 1/4" away from edge of CB also on OB.

Pick a spot on the OB, anywhere, and the right or left EDGE of the CB can link up to it. CLEARLY VISIBLE and
REPRODUCEABLE LIKE A TOTAL ECLIPSE OF THE MOON WITH THE SHADOW EDGE MOVING SLOWLY FROM
ONE END TO THE OTHER in either direction.
 
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That objective alignment is accurate for that one shot. What's the objective alignment for the shot just to the left or right of that one?

That's why I said "no aiming system/method clearly defines nearly enough different aiming solutions to make every shot that comes up". Actually not even a majority of them.
The RIGHT CB EDGE or the LEFT CB EDGE on any and every part of the OB. CCB is 1 1/4" away from edge of CB also on OB.

Pick a spot on the OB, anywhere, and the right or left EDGE of the CB can link up to it. Guess what? A different
cut angle and aiming solution for all of them.
 
The RIGHT CB EDGE or the LEFT CB EDGE on any and every part of the OB. CCB is 1 1/4" away from edge of CB also on OB.

Pick a spot on the OB, anywhere, and the right or left EDGE of the CB can link up to it. Guess what? A different
cut angle and aiming solution for all of them.

I hate to say it but it's useless trying to have a discussion with PJ, he just goes around and around, eventually leading back to his magical shaft and preferred aiming method.

Clearly he is the professional and we are all just hacks. However, I do often wonder how many balls he actually hits per week and why his name isn't in 1st place for every single tournament.
 
See:
  • It is smooth and has very little friction, especially with an open bridge.
  • It stays cleaner than a wood shaft, which can be difficult to keep sealed, clean, and smooth (with no scratches or dings).
  • It is easy and safe to clean with a damp towel.
  • It doesn’t warp even under humidity and temperature extremes (so you can leave it in the trunk of your car in any weather).
  • It doesn’t scratch easily.
  • It doesn’t ding when you hit balls, bang up against furniture, or drop it on a hard and dirty floor.
  • It doesn’t have any wood grain that might be visually distracting.
Pasted the list in from the link...

Pretty superficial "advantages". Maybe I should condition my previous with "performance improvement" over wood.
 
So "between" is your idea of an exact description? How many different shot alignments do you suppose are "between" those two alignments? Only one?

pj
chgo
Who cares! If as player, even a novice can't visualize the differences between the 'Known' parts and tweak it, they should take up shovelboard.
 
So "between" is your idea of an exact description? How many different shot alignments do you suppose are "between" those two alignments? Only one?

pj
chgo

For practical purposes, the useful in-betweens that fall within each quarter alignment are typically no more than 1/8 of a ferrule in aim/alignment difference.

In other words, using the width of the ferrule as a guide/gage, one can easily learn to aim 1 to 2 degrees thinner or thicker than the nearest known aiming reference.

A 1/8 of a ferrule aiming difference is about 1.5° for shots around a 1/2 ball or thicker. It starts changing quite a bit as the cut angle gets bigger. It's a 2.5° difference for shots that are closer to a 1/4 ball.

Anyway, using the width of the ferrule split into eighths can help a fractional player define/pinpoint about 20 different cut angles for shots between 0 and 30 degrees.

That's plenty accurate enough to pocket most shots, and plenty defined enough to help a player develop solid aiming skills (the visual knowledge that allows us to feel/know how to aim or align any given shot).
 
And none of them clearly defined, except for the major fractions.

pj
chgo

Yep, that's where subjectivity comes in. Those with good spatial skills automatically do better with things that require estimating fractional references and the in-betweens. Those with poor spatial skills need to work a bit harder to develop such skills.
 
...using the width of the ferrule as a guide/gage, one can easily learn to aim 1 to 2 degrees thinner or thicker than the nearest known aiming reference.
Yes, that's a way of making closer, more repeatable approximations. Too many steps for me.

pj
chgo
 
For practical purposes, the useful in-betweens that fall within each quarter alignment are typically no more than 1/8 of a ferrule in aim/alignment difference.

In other words, using the width of the ferrule as a guide/gage, one can easily learn to aim 1 to 2 degrees thinner or thicker than the nearest known aiming reference.

A 1/8 of a ferrule aiming difference is about 1.5° for shots around a 1/2 ball or thicker. It starts changing quite a bit as the cut angle gets bigger. It's a 2.5° difference for shots that are closer to a 1/4 ball.

Anyway, using the width of the ferrule split into eighths can help a fractional player define/pinpoint about 20 different cut angles for shots between 0 and 30 degrees.

That's plenty accurate enough to pocket most shots, and plenty defined enough to help a player develop solid aiming skills (the visual knowledge that allows us to feel/know how to aim or align any given shot).
Good post Brian. One single word in the last sentence doesn't need to be there. Guess which one? Big hint...it starts with an "f". Read the sentence again without it to yourself and it makes much more sense.
It's VISUAL knowledge. VISUAL!
 
Yes, "visualize the differences and tweak it" = "finalize it by feel".

pj
chgo

"Feel" (to me) is simply knowing it when you see it.

If I had no diamonds in my pool table rails, I would still be able to visualize the mid point of any rail, and I'd be able to visually split each half in half again for quarters, then again for eighths.

The length of the rail is always the same, so with enough practice you could develop the visual skills needed to pinpoint the nearest eighth or smaller fraction from the center of the rail or wherever. You would know it with certainty, due to your visual experience/knowledge. And that certainty of knowing is what I'd call "feel", whether I'm looking at a a spot somewhere along that diamond-less rail or a spot somewhere along the equator of an object ball.
 
Of course. In aiming "it feels right" doesn't mean physical feeling - it's the same as "it seems right".

pj
chgo
It "seems" right is weak, having doubt in it probably caused by guesswork. So, it "feels" right being the same as "seems" puts it in the same category. On the other hand, "this biatch IS right on the money with the way I have the CB overlapping the OB and dead nuts. It's going in center pocket!" Which is what happens when using the Edge and Center of the CB to the OB from repetitive visual training and hitting balls. They're BOTH clearly visible and where you place them is where they ARE. No "seeming" or "feeling" involved. Now, don't get me wrong. It's still possible to screw up and miss the shot but more so from the stroke or speed.

Even with what you do and how you come to your conclusions with your final alignment, the EDGE and CENTER of the CB is clearly visible on the OB for each shot you take. Stop, observe it and it'll jump right out at you. If you do it often enough, reverse engineer the entire process and start looking for Edge and Center first instead of contact points on the other side of the CB that can't even be seen, only guessed at. Which brings "feels" and "seems" back into the equation.
 
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Good post Brian. One single word in the last sentence doesn't need to be there. Guess which one? Big hint...it starts with an "f". Read the sentence again without it to yourself and it makes much more sense.
It's VISUAL knowledge. VISUAL!

Yeah yeah, visual knowledge...whatever.
 
Of course. In aiming "it feels right" doesn't mean physical feeling (obviously) - it's the same as "it seems right". I think "practiced estimation" is an accurate description of it.

pj
chgo

Same thing. I mean, as far as the mind is concerned, feel is feel. It doesn't matter whether it's based on visual data or physical data.

"It feels right" is correct, not "it seems right". Because when the mind finds a match for the input it's receiving - when it can link what you're seeing to something you've seen thousands of times and therefore know - there has to be some sort of mental trigger or recognition to let you know you are correct. That's feel.

You could feel on or off for the shot. If you're not sure, if it "seems" like it might be on but maybe not, then that particular shot isn't one that you know well enough to feel whether or not it's on or off. And that realization itself is based on what your mind is telling you about the shot, that it doesn't feel confident or knowledgeable about it. That's feel.
 
Yeah yeah, visual knowledge...whatever.
What kind of response is that---visual knowledge...whatever?

You posted: "If I had no diamonds in my pool table rails, I would still be able to visualize the mid point of any rail, and I'd be able to visually split each half in half again for quarters, then again for eighths."

But you DO have diamonds on your rail with no guesswork. If you had no diamonds on your rail and are that confident you could do what you posted, would you be willing to bet 5 grand that you could PINPOINT the mid point of any rail, then split each half in half again for quarters, then again for eighths to within 1/2 to 1" accuracy? Accuracy is imperative
with how you align everything for all of it to work. Is it not? Or is there a fudge factor?
 
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