Maybe this is why this cue hit kaka?

[JoeyInCali]

I was going to cut the front 2 inches of this sneaky I had one maker make locally years ago and redo it. It hit pretty soft. I was going to plug it up then I discovered this.
Under the 3/8 joint screw is a 5/16 weight bolt. THe black marker is the 4th-inch line from the face.

 

[JoeyInCali]

IT was also off center and only had some yellow glue holding it.
IT came off easily after heating it up a little.

 

[Varney Cues]

The first time I saw that it was a Phillippi sneaky...and of course Pred is doing most all that way now.

 

[JoeyInCali]

The first time I saw that it was a Phillippi sneaky...and of course Pred is doing most all that way now.

What are they called?
REALLY?
BUZZERS!
tnx

 

[manwon]

I was going to cut the front 2 inches of this sneaky I had one maker make locally years ago and redo it. It hit pretty soft. I was going to plug it up then I discovered this.
Under the 3/8 joint screw is a 5/16 weight bolt. THe black marker is the 4th-inch line from the face.

Hey Joey, It looks like you got Screwed Bub!!!!!!!

I think we should start a Sticky Thread on the Hack Job's. Each Year we could give a Cue Maker Hack award for the Shittiest work shown.

Joey you may have the winner for 2008, that is so Shitty I can smell it 1800 miles away!!!!!!

 

[JoeyInCali]

Hey Joey, It looks like you got Screwed Bub!!!!!!!

I think we should start a Sticky Thread on the Hack Job's. Each Year we could give a Cue Maker Hack award for the Shittiest work shown.

Joey you may have the winner for 2008, that is so Shitty I can smell it 1800 miles away!!!!!!

You should have seen the ferrule.
This guy has a nice Porper Model A too.

 

[RocketQ]

If this were done correctly ie. Epoxy and in the center would you still consider this a hack job? Let me ask this. If you had a customer that wanted a foreword weighted spliced cue with a wood joint how would you do it? Just picking some brains here..

 

[KJ Cues]

If you need to add front-end wght., that's one way to do it although it should be done correctly. Another method is to make the joint screw over-length. I've built many cues with a 4" joint screw with 1 3/8" exposed (3/8 x 10). Go 5" if you need it.

I've also used a 5" 'A' jnt. screw when the cue called for it (again 3/8").

An all maple cue can sometimes come in at 15 oz. so you're going to need to add wght. somewhere. I'd prefer to have it in front of my hand rather than behind it.

 

[JoeyInCali]

If this were done correctly ie. Epoxy and in the center would you still consider this a hack job? Let me ask this. If you had a customer that wanted a foreword weighted spliced cue with a wood joint how would you do it? Just picking some brains here..

Keep the forearm fat and powdered tungsten under the pin.

 

[poolplayer2093]

could you core the forearm with a heavier wood? i'm not a cuemaker but that seems like it might work. would that alter the hit too much?

 

[JoeyInCali]

could you core the forearm with a heavier wood? i'm not a cuemaker but that seems like it might work. would that alter the hit too much?

You sure can.

 

[Craig Fales]

The construction technique is valid...just the work quality that was used here is subpar....

 

[rhncue]

The construction technique is valid...just the work quality that was used here is subpar....

I've done similar in the past. A fellow once brought me a Trapper that he wanted to make into a break cue. He wanted it to weigh 25oz. I bored the back 3/4 inch, pulled the pin that was a 3/8X10 and drilled a 5/16 hole about 6 or 7 inch into the forearm. I then took lead shot from shotgun shells and made the cue come up to 25oz. I then mixed the shot with epoxy and filled the front of the prong just leaving room to reinstall the pin. I then melted the rest of the shot and poured it into the butt of the cue. In this way the cue was not so terribly butt heavy.

Dick

 

[RocketQ]

No powder??? man that breaker could have had some real kick... Would have given new meaning to hits like a cannon. lol

 

[Irish634]

I've done similar in the past. A fellow once brought me a Trapper that he wanted to make into a break cue. He wanted it to weigh 25oz. I bored the back 3/4 inch, pulled the pin that was a 3/8X10 and drilled a 5/16 hole about 6 or 7 inch into the forearm. I then took lead shot from shotgun shells and made the cue come up to 25oz. I then mixed the shot with epoxy and filled the front of the prong just leaving room to reinstall the pin. I then melted the rest of the shot and poured it into the butt of the cue. In this way the cue was not so terribly butt heavy.

Dick

Before I got to the part where you mention epoxying the shot, the first thing that came to mind was the concept of the "Dead Blow" hammer. I don't know how that would work in a cue though.

 

[manwon]

If you need to add front-end wght., that's one way to do it although it should be done correctly. Another method is to make the joint screw over-length. I've built many cues with a 4" joint screw with 1 3/8" exposed (3/8 x 10). Go 5" if you need it.

I've also used a 5" 'A' jnt. screw when the cue called for it (again 3/8").

An all maple cue can sometimes come in at 15 oz. so you're going to need to add wght. somewhere. I'd prefer to have it in front of my hand rather than behind it.

I totally Agree!!!

 

[conetip]

Before I got to the part where you mention epoxying the shot, the first thing that came to mind was the concept of the "Dead Blow" hammer. I don't know how that would work in a cue though.

It is interesting. The dead blow hammer works really well. But with a cue, it has the weight of a 21 oz , that is what it weighed, but the hit of a 17 oz cue. It was a 17 oz cue with 4 oz of lead shot added to the back of a cue for the test.There was a strange feel from the cue as it hit. Not like something was loose though.I did not like it.
Neil