Moisture meter.

Blue Hog ridr

Blue Hog ridr

World Famous Fisherman.
Silver Member
I did a search and found one cue maker uses a Wagner moisture meter.
It would seem that this might be an essential piece of equipment for the shop.
Is there a brand that stands out, that most makers use.
With equipment you get what you pay for, what would be the basic price range that one should look for without going overboard.
Is the scanning type preferable over the pin type.
What is the minimum depth range one should have given the thicknesses of wood that cue makers use.
Are there other special characteristics of a moisture meter that I should look for.
Thanks for your help.
Terry.
 
I use this one:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=123201&FamilyID=973

It seems to work OK. You have to set it for different types of wood, but most of the woods you use are not listed in the manual or online. If you contact them, they will give you the settings for some. It also says that you don't have to worry about the codes for anything under 10% as the variance won't be that great.

The only problem I can see with this meter is that the pins are very close together, so you are getting a sample from only a small section of the board and it's close to the surface, so it is probably dryer. I usually take a reading in a couple of spots. I basically check when I get the wood and then may recheck it 6 months or more later to see how much it's changed. Some of the stuff I had that was quite wet when I started, I won't use for a few more years, so I'll check it again then.

Also, some of the woods we use are extremely hard. It is very difficult to push those pins into a piece of African Blackwood.

Probably not much of a help, but that's what I use.
 
Fine Woodworking search

I would suggest the woodworking magazine "Fine Woodworking" or their website, you should be able to find a lot of information on moisture meters there. The pinless type are the newer type, and supposedly scan deeper into the wood than the pin type, from what I've read. Hope it helps.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
I use this one:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=123201&FamilyID=973

It seems to work OK. You have to set it for different types of wood, but most of the woods you use are not listed in the manual or online. If you contact them, they will give you the settings for some. It also says that you don't have to worry about the codes for anything under 10% as the variance won't be that great.

The only problem I can see with this meter is that the pins are very close together, so you are getting a sample from only a small section of the board and it's close to the surface, so it is probably dryer. I usually take a reading in a couple of spots. I basically check when I get the wood and then may recheck it 6 months or more later to see how much it's changed. Some of the stuff I had that was quite wet when I started, I won't use for a few more years, so I'll check it again then.

Also, some of the woods we use are extremely hard. It is very difficult to push those pins into a piece of African Blackwood.

Probably not much of a help, but that's what I use.
Click to expand...

How do you test your meter? Do you trust what it says? I have had a few and when I tested them they were all off by quite a bit.
 
macguy said:
How do you test your meter? Do you trust what it says? I have had a few and when I tested them they were all off by quite a bit.
Click to expand...
You could just let the wood acclimate over time, then you would have no use for a moisture meter, whatever they are.
 
Paul Dayton said:
You could just let the wood acclimate over time, then you would have no use for a moisture meter, whatever they are.
Click to expand...
And an Electrician could just grab hold of two wires to see if there was power. Or he could use a meter.
 
Paul Dayton said:
You could just let the wood acclimate over time, then you would have no use for a moisture meter, whatever they are.
Click to expand...
I agree.

If you want one pm me your address and I send you mine. It has been setting in my shop collecting dust for years. Chris
 
I was just pointing out that some the most respected cuemakers of all time never used a moisture meter. They didn't have to, they used time.

Actually, if you make sure that the wires you are checking aren't connrected to any electrical source you don't need a meter. It's the same thing as having your wood sitting around for years.
 
Paul Dayton said:
You could just let the wood acclimate over time, then you would have no use for a moisture meter, whatever they are.
Click to expand...
My point was, these meters are not really made for really critical readings. They can be off by a huge percent. I had several and the lower the moister content the less accurate they were. You can check the meter by just taking a reading on say a small piece of wood. Then weigh the wood. Now put the piece of wood in a microwave oven and keep checking the weight till it stops changing. Use a small piece and it only will take a few minutes. Then calculate what percent of weight the now dry piece of wood lost and that will be what was the moister content. If done right it is very accurate. I tested meters that may say the wood is 8% and it is actually 25%. I don't thing they are of any value really in cue making.
 
Paul Dayton said:
I was just pointing out that some the most respected cuemakers of all time never used a moisture meter. They didn't have to, they used time.

That only works if you are willing to invest heavily in wood every year so you always have seasoned wood.
Click to expand...
 
macguy said:
My point was, these meters are not really made for really critical readings. They can be off by a huge percent. I had several and the lower the moister content the less accurate they were. You can check the meter by just taking a reading on say a small piece of wood. Then weigh the wood. Now put the piece of wood in a microwave oven and keep checking the weight till it stops changing. Use a small piece and it only will take a few minutes. Then calculate what percent of weight the now dry piece of wood lost and that will be what was the moister content. If done right it is very accurate. I tested meters that may say the wood is 8% and it is actually 25%. I don't thing they are of any value really in cue making.
Click to expand...
Just FYI purple heart will catch on fire from the inside out if you nuke it too long. LOL I just did an expirment a couple weeks ago with some 2by3by1/2 blocks of it. I worked my way up to 2 minutes on 50% power and I could see a bludge form in the center of the piece. I stopped the microwave and then smoke started rolling out the ends of the wood. I cut it in half and the whole center was charcol.
 
Chris Byrne said:
Just FYI purple heart will catch on fire from the inside out if you nuke it too long. LOL I just did an expirment a couple weeks ago with some 2by3by1/2 blocks of it. I worked my way up to 2 minutes on 50% power and I could see a bludge form in the center of the piece. I stopped the microwave and then smoke started rolling out the ends of the wood. I cut it in half and the whole center was charcol.
Click to expand...
I have only done it for any length of time with maple. I do do it with wood inlays. I cut them to a very tight fit. Then microwave them for a few seconds before pressing them in. The will swell and fill the pocket without any glue lines.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
Paul Dayton said:
I was just pointing out that some the most respected cuemakers of all time never used a moisture meter. They didn't have to, they used time.

That only works if you are willing to invest heavily in wood every year so you always have seasoned wood.
Click to expand...

I'm working my way up to that. I figure in another year or so, I won't be using any wood that I haven't had for at least three years. It's hard to start out that way though unless you plan way ahead. I probably have enough wood right now where I wouldn't have to buy any for at least two years, but I will keep buying.

As for the moisture meter, I really only use it when I first buy the wood to get an idea where it's at.
Click to expand...
 
Tap Tap Tap

Paul Dayton said:
You could just let the wood acclimate over time, then you would have no use for a moisture meter, whatever they are.
Click to expand...

It's all I can say...
 
i never bothered to buy one either. dont think i will. i only finish a few cues a month but i try to buy a small amount each month like 20 pc of maple curly handles bem ect. and some others here and there.

just curious whats some policies on point stock and buttsleeves. i dont let them sit as much bc theyre getting cut up. i like plain 4 pointers traditional style and hoppes.
 
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