My CNC lathe design

I guess this is not the version you are finnishing up but the prototype?
Spooky config you got there with the stacked - cracked - pile of wood as a base for the headstock bearings:o
Guess you plan to make it all mounted on a good metal base when your prototyping is done?
Looks like a fun project :-)
 
Yes and only one of the spacers were cracked...

Newton said:
I guess this is not the version you are finnishing up but the prototype?
Spooky config you got there with the stacked - cracked - pile of wood as a base for the headstock bearings:o
Guess you plan to make it all mounted on a good metal base when your prototyping is done?
Looks like a fun project :-)
Click to expand...

the cracked part is actually two independently secured pieces. It's actually amazingly stable for how it's mounted. lol...

It's running at about 1000 RPM there from the get go of the video, watch it again and see how smooth it is running there.

But yes, the final version will have either aluminum or steel blocks that are braced.

Jaden
 
also it's not a pile of wood.

Newton said:
I guess this is not the version you are finnishing up but the prototype?
Spooky config you got there with the stacked - cracked - pile of wood as a base for the headstock bearings:o
Guess you plan to make it all mounted on a good metal base when your prototyping is done?
Looks like a fun project :-)
Click to expand...

Everything is secured to the heavy duty hardwood workbench and the blocks the pillow block bearing are mounted on are secured to the table with 1/2 inch bolts and nuts and then the pillow blocks are mounted down to the hardwood blocks by 3.8 inch wood bolts. I had to do the blocks in that strange configuration to avoid the belt from rubbing.

Once I build my 4 axis CNC mill I will be able to fabricate more permanent accurate parts, but in the mean time I am working with what I've got and using good old fashioned ingenuity.

Jaden
 
design

Very unique design heavy duty and small.....great job post more pics soon.........Keep us informed and good luck.....Ray Weeks
 
I double checked...

Kelly_Guy said:
It looks solid to me. 1000 rpm seems high for router use.

Kelly
Click to expand...

it's actually running about 500 RPM. You wouldn't want to cut too deep at those speeds but it's good for finishing passes.

Jaden
 
Last edited:
Yeah it was at 25 hz...

I went out to the lathe and checked the VFD. It was set to 25 hz, which should be around 5-600 rpm. It's rated at 1725 RPM at 60 hz...

Yes, it is a very heavy duty design. The chucks alone weigh about 70-80 lbs...

The chucks are actually huge and it might make the design seem smaller than it actually is.

It has about 38-40 inched between centers.

I'm using a 48 inch lead screw for the x axis.

Jaden
 
Jaden

It looks like you're off to a good start!

What controller are you using?

Have you incorporated spindle control? On and off as well as speed control?

What pitch is your lead screw on the long axis? (Z on a lathe actually)



Like I said, it looks like you're off to a good start! Keep it going!
 
please put a limit switch on x right before those big ass chucks! wow
 
What's the matter Jake?

You afraid of a little shrapnel!

I've had 4 table saw blades, just freshly resharpened of course, dive into their respective tail stocks. They were turning 3450 RPM, and the tails stocks were complete with 1/2" steel shafts, bearings, springs etc. All in an aluminum housing.

Lots of sparks and little balls flying everywhere!
 
Well here are some pictures of my controller and lathe..

RBC said:
Jaden

It looks like you're off to a good start!

What controller are you using?

Have you incorporated spindle control? On and off as well as speed control?

What pitch is your lead screw on the long axis? (Z on a lathe actually)



Like I said, it looks like you're off to a good start! Keep it going!
Click to expand...

Thought I'd include some pics of everything including the controller. It's a five axis controller. When I make my CNC mill, I may just buy a 3 axis controller and switch them out, using the five axis for the mill.

I'm using two Kl4030 drivers for the step motors and a 15 amp 24 volt power supply. I can get a feed rate of about 40 inches per minute with the 24 volt supply. I may get a 36 volt if I feel I need a faster feed rate, we'll see.

The drivers can handle up to 50 volts so it's really just a matter of which power supply I use.
 

Attachments

  • WP_000012.jpg
    WP_000012.jpg
    43.6 KB · Views: 713
  • WP_000014.jpg
    WP_000014.jpg
    53.1 KB · Views: 718
  • WP_000015.jpg
    WP_000015.jpg
    47.2 KB · Views: 706
  • WP_000016.jpg
    WP_000016.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 694
  • WP_000017.jpg
    WP_000017.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 697
Ok now to answer some more questions.

Yes, I will have stop sensors mounted to stop the carriage before they get to the chucks.

My VFD does have an interface for controlling the frequency and I will be getting a light sensor that ties into my controller for controlling rpm as well, so my controller will control the on/off on the motor and the rpm.

This will allow me to do threading later on if I want.

As you can see from the picture with my hand on the chuck, it is monstrous, each chuck weighs about 35 pounds.

I also got a really heavy duty quick change tool post, the only way to go. I'm still waiting on some tooling. I need to get some big boring bars (the base has to be big.

Jaden


Oh yeah, I built the housing for the controller from scratch and I'm not finished with the clean up. I need to solder some wiring drill a hole for the power cord, and mount the polycarbonate top I made for it.

If it gets too hot once sealed, I may have to add a fan to the side of the box.
 
Last edited:
For the wiring on the controller...

I used cat 5 cable and the twisted pairs for wiring to the motors. I used six strands of the cat five individually for the signal leads from the controller to the drivers.

To minimize signal interference, I actually took the sheathing off and untwisted the six strands and removed the flax, then I put the sheathing back on for a cleaner look.

In the video I was manually moving the motors with the keyboard through Mach 3, although I plan on ordering one of the wireless USB controllers here shortly and of course most of my operations will be done with G-code.

Jaden
 
Great setup Jade.

Those chucks scare me too ( as with Jake ).
Do you plan to chuck up parts or just turn between centers ?
When I had mine, I used a CH turner, a 3/8 dead center sticking out some 3 inches with a spur driver. The spur driver is only 3/4 OD which is under the joint diam.
I like the supported the two supported rods and the tailstock on the two trucks.
Great idea.
 
Yes that's exactly what I intend to do...

LGSM3 said:
please put a limit switch on x right before those big ass chucks! wow
Click to expand...

It's funny because I setup a dedicated computer to just run the g-code and mach3 software and it doesn't have a monitor or keyboard.

I just remote desktop into it to control the computer.

I use autodesk inventor for the majority of the actual work and programming and then just export the faces and import them to create the g-code.

So I will be using my main computer for that and then just load the g-code over the network and run the program through remote desktop.

The problem I have already ran into is that my main computer's wireless card (my router is in my living room, my shop is in my garage) is on the fritz and cuts out at inopportune times.

I have discovered that if you are jogging in mach 3 when the connection stops, mach3 just continues right on jogging in the same direction indefinitely until it receives a new command.

A couple of times I have had to switch off the power to the controller to stop the jogging.

So I will probably later today go to radio shack and get a 5v momentary switch to connect to the controller as a stop switch on the x axis.

I know that everyone seems to like the gecko 540, that's quickly becoming the industry standard for us DIYers, but this controller has a lot of cool, easy to use features and is comparable to the gecko.

Plus, I like the way it wires up to the motor drivers.

From what I've seen with the gecko, you don't use a separate connection for the enable +5v, and with mine you do. So I'm actually using 6 wires to connect from the controller to the driver. three for the common grounds and 3 for the pulse +, Direction + and Enable +.

It seems to be working great but will take some time to know how well it works for sure.

Jaden
 
Jaden said:
It's funny because I setup a dedicated computer to just run the g-code and mach3 software and it doesn't have a monitor or keyboard.

I just remote desktop into it to control the computer.

I use autodesk inventor for the majority of the actual work and programming and then just export the faces and import them to create the g-code.

So I will be using my main computer for that and then just load the g-code over the network and run the program through remote desktop.

The problem I have already ran into is that my main computer's wireless card (my router is in my living room, my shop is in my garage) is on the fritz and cuts out at inopportune times.

I have discovered that if you are jogging in mach 3 when the connection stops, mach3 just continues right on jogging in the same direction indefinitely until it receives a new command.

A couple of times I have had to switch off the power to the controller to stop the jogging.

So I will probably later today go to radio shack and get a 5v momentary switch to connect to the controller as a stop switch on the x axis.

I know that everyone seems to like the gecko 540, that's quickly becoming the industry standard for us DIYers, but this controller has a lot of cool, easy to use features and is comparable to the gecko.

Plus, I like the way it wires up to the motor drivers.

From what I've seen with the gecko, you don't use a separate connection for the enable +5v, and with mine you do. So I'm actually using 6 wires to connect from the controller to the driver. three for the common grounds and 3 for the pulse +, Direction + and Enable +.

It seems to be working great but will take some time to know how well it works for sure.

Jaden
Click to expand...

what are you camming with? I too am an autodesk fan, especially after seeing how much of a joke that these cad/cam programs are. I have invetor but have never actually taken the time to get heavy into it but thought since there is now inventorcam that it may be worth it. I use Acad and just drag and drop to bobcad, works flawless, don't even have to save to dxf. trying to draw or actually be creative in bobcad makes me want to jump off a cliff.
 
RBC said:
What's the matter Jake?

You afraid of a little shrapnel!

I've had 4 table saw blades, just freshly resharpened of course, dive into their respective tail stocks. They were turning 3450 RPM, and the tails stocks were complete with 1/2" steel shafts, bearings, springs etc. All in an aluminum housing.

Lots of sparks and little balls flying everywhere!
Click to expand...

shrapnel, more like explosion.
 
LGSM3 said:
what are you camming with? I too am an autodesk fan, especially after seeing how much of a joke that these cad/cam programs are. I have invetor but have never actually taken the time to get heavy into it but thought since there is now inventorcam that it may be worth it. I use Acad and just drag and drop to bobcad, works flawless, don't even have to save to dxf. trying to draw or actually be creative in bobcad makes me want to jump off a cliff.
Click to expand...


I wish I can spend more time with Inventor.
It's a powerful drawing and assembling software.
Heck, I get it for free even.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top