Need help with old centennials

Jerry Forsyth

Well-known member
Folks,

I have always (for the last 25 years) played with the same set of centennial balls. These came new with my 1948 Anniversary table and I (being a rather lazy cuss) have never cleaned them. Needless to say, they are shamefully filthy. My wife finally demanded I get them clean.

So I put them in the dishwasher on 'potscrubber' mode and washed them. Nothing. That didn't even scare the dirt. So she (the same wife who started this trouble) hands me a bottle of orange citrus cleaner and says "this'll clean anything". Wrong. Balls still covered with streaks and spots of tan to brown filth that will scrape off under the force of a strong fingernail. But there is too much to do it that way. So I tried Windex. Well, that cut some of it (maybe the top layer), but the balls are still dirty.

I can't go to a poolroom and use the ball cleaner as I live in the boonies and the closest room is a hundred miles away in Atlanta. So I am looking for a cleaner I can use with a towel that works. Any suggestions? I am considering trying gasoline, but would think the orange cleaner would clean anything that gas would work on. I am, of course, afraid to use anything abrasive like ajax.

By the way, my table cloth is green 860 and the chalk is Master green, so the dirt, which is brown, probably comes from my time of madness when I replaced the original rubber pockets with some expensive leather ones. That sucked bad enough that I have now replaced the leather with the original black rubber ones. By the way, anybody want to buy a set of expensive drop leather pockets with the net bottoms and fringe skirts? Make you a real deal. But I warn you, these were pricey so they really suck.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
Recently, I purchased a very small water-powered washer for cleaning, about 30 bucks in cost, a miniature version of what one would use to power-wash a wooden deck.

When I first got it, I was amazed at how it cleaned so well. I used it on my kitchen cabinets, some of which were stained with 20-year-old spaghetti sauce splatters, and in the bathroom, it's great for grout cleaning and shower doors with soap scum.

The one I have holds about a cup of water, and you pour it in there and wait 3 minutes for it to heat up. It has different attachments to fit the need, too. You then just blast away, without all the scrubbing and fingernail scraping. It works! :)

JAM
 
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I don't know about a cleaner...maybe full strength Simple Green possibly turpintine or Varsol (I'd be careful about using these,don't soak). AVOID BLEACH at all costs as chlorine tends to cause plastics to break down. Maybe "wax remover" available at many auto parts stores in the paint section (similar to turpintine).
 
This is how Jim Rempe told me to clean balls.

1. Denatured alcohol to clean all marks.

2. Windex to generally clean balls

3. Your favorite scented Pledge (I prefer Cedar) furniture polish to bring them up to luster.

This procedure will get old balls looking very nice.

Under NO, NO, NO circumstances use any kind of heavy duty cleaner; for example, 405, Fantastic, etc.

If the balls are very dirty, with lots of scuff marks it WILL be tedious on the hands; JAM’s method is certainly the easy way out, sounds like a mini car wash. There's another idea, why purchase anything; just use the wash and rinse cycle at your local car wash, depending where you live it will probably cost about a buck and a half to do the job. I prefer to get personal with my balls :D and clean them by hand.

Here’s a neat little trick:

Spray some silicone on the cue ball and amaze your friends with spectacular draw.
 
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balls

Jerry Forsyth said:
Folks,

I have always (for the last 25 years) played with the same set of centennial balls. These came new with my 1948 Anniversary table and I (being a rather lazy cuss) have never cleaned them. Needless to say, they are shamefully filthy. My wife finally demanded I get them clean.

So I put them in the dishwasher on 'potscrubber' mode and washed them. Nothing. That didn't even scare the dirt. So she (the same wife who started this trouble) hands me a bottle of orange citrus cleaner and says "this'll clean anything". Wrong. Balls still covered with streaks and spots of tan to brown filth that will scrape off under the force of a strong fingernail. But there is too much to do it that way. So I tried Windex. Well, that cut some of it (maybe the top layer), but the balls are still dirty.

I can't go to a poolroom and use the ball cleaner as I live in the boonies and the closest room is a hundred miles away in Atlanta. So I am looking for a cleaner I can use with a towel that works. Any suggestions? I am considering trying gasoline, but would think the orange cleaner would clean anything that gas would work on. I am, of course, afraid to use anything abrasive like ajax.

By the way, my table cloth is green 860 and the chalk is Master green, so the dirt, which is brown, probably comes from my time of madness when I replaced the original rubber pockets with some expensive leather ones. That sucked bad enough that I have now replaced the leather with the original black rubber ones. By the way, anybody want to buy a set of expensive drop leather pockets with the net bottoms and fringe skirts? Make you a real deal. But I warn you, these were pricey so they really suck.

Thanks,
Jerry
Hi Jerry,
Please don't use the products that some have mentioned here. They work, but are bad for phonlic. Not the right stuff to use. Those product mentioned, break down the phonlic over time.
Use 3-m polishing compound [ brown liquid, and hand buff] and then polish with the cleaner/polish that will be sent to you by me and Janice.

We will also send you a new "BLUDWORTH BALL CLEANER", when I get time to build it for you. Real busy taking care of my sweetheart.
Thanks again for you and Danny's help. Please forward Danny's new phone number to me via- PM. Need to visit with him, pretty soon.
BTW, you still owe me a visit, so come on down.
thanks
Blud

PS. Janice walked about 800ft. with me holding her up for balance. No movement with her right arm and hand as yet, but we ain't done yet.
 
I have one of Blud's ball cleaners and I'll say this:

It is simply the BEST ball cleaner on the market. (period)

I confess I don't use the cleaner/polisher which does a wonderful job, I just prefer the Windex that Jim suggested. Actually, Jim DOES use the cleaner/polisher but he said either is fine.

AND, I DO NOT spray pledge on the balls and use Blud's ball cleaner; I polish the balls by hand about once a month.
 
Jewelers Rouge Works Great!

If you have a grinder in your basement, you can just put a buffing wheel on it and use Jewelers Rouge by hand to apply with a soft cloth. Then polish off & buff with the buffer.

TY & GL
 
cleaners

DeadAim said:
I have one of Blud's ball cleaners and I'll say this:

It is simply the BEST ball cleaner on the market. (period)

I confess I don't use the cleaner/polisher which does a wonderful job, I just prefer the Windex that Jim suggested. Actually, Jim DOES use the cleaner/polisher but he said either is fine.

AND, I DO NOT spray pledge on the balls and use Blud's ball cleaner; I polish the balls by hand about once a month.
No need to go through all the hand work. If you use the cleaner/polish that I furnish with the ball cleaner, you have not hand work. The windex, and other things mentioned, are not good for balls. Over time the ballls wil develope surface cracks. The polish I use is called "NOVIS", and it's made for phonlic materials as the balls are made of. Sometimes I place the balls with nothing on them, to get the leather marks off, then using a mist sprayer to apply the polish.

blud
 
blud said:
No need to go through all the hand work. If you use the cleaner/polish that I furnish with the ball cleaner, you have not hand work. The windex, and other things mentioned, are not good for balls. Over time the ballls wil develope surface cracks. The polish I use is called "NOVIS", and it's made for phonlic materials as the balls are made of. Sometimes I place the balls with nothing on them, to get the leather marks off, then using a mist sprayer to apply the polish.

blud

Hi Blud,

It's hard to teach an old dog new tricks, this is just the routine I used BEFORE I purchased your ball cleaner so I just kept it up; and I DO NOT want to mix the Windex with the Pledge on the SAME cleaning pads. Actually, I was considering purchasing another clearner just to polish the balls.

I'll have to bring the matter of Windex combined with phonlic materials to Jim's attention, it would be strange for him to say it's okay if it was harmful to the balls; then, as you know, Jim does have some idiosyncrasies, like everyone else. I KNOW he would just get a new set if the balls get damaged in any way.

You know he's closely aligned with Aramith/Saluc. I remember him telling me one time when he visited the manufacturing plant overseas that the chemicals used to make the balls were life treatening if they got into the pores of your skin, he said that axes were spaced around the plant so employees could "chop off" their arms if the chemicals got on their hands.

Geez, this makes working at the local fast food restaurant glorious.

Hope everything goes well for you,

Joe
 
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I have Centennials and have found that a product called Gel-Gloss works the best. It can be found at Home Depot, Lowes etc. It is quick and easy. Another product that might work is Mr Clean Magic Eraser. Haven't tried it but know it works great on other stuff.
 
AuntyDan said:
What about the stuff Aramith sell specifically for cleaning their balls?

http://www.poolndarts.com/index.cfm...816e1bb8c-E3EF5BB7-D61C-4F06-B03372A3529030DE

This is similar to Blud's product, I think Blud's is already diluted but am not sure, Jimmy has it in a Windex bottle already diluted. The Aramith product can be diluted with 3 parts water to 1 part product; so, Aramith's 8 oz. bottle will yield 24 ozs. of cleaner/polisher.

I think what it comes down to is convienence and price. I can go anywhere and purchase a bottle of Windex, I have to travel to the nearest billiard product store or send away for Aramith, I have to send away for Blud's cleaner. I'm sure that taking into account what chemicals are used in each product and personal opinion it would be hard to determine which product is actually best for the balls. I've been using Windex for over a year and have seen no detrimental effects on the balls, I use two sets: Brunswick's and Aramith's, top of the line on both. That way I am comfortable with either set a tournament chooses to use. If the balls do begin to show harmful effects as Blud said I'll just purchase another set, I think balls should be replaced on your personal table about every two years if you play a lot; billiards balls take an awful beating, especially the cue ball. I have two cue balls for each of my sets, just in case one gets damaged by flying of the table.

Also, there's the fact that Blud is an advertiser for the forum; this should also rank high when it comes to a purchasing decision. There's always the added advantage of a mail order purchase that you don't have to go anywhere, UPS will deliever the product right to your front door. :D

Joe
 
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works well for me

DeadAim said:
This is similar to Blud's product, I think Blud's is already diluted but am not sure, Jimmy has it in a Windex bottle already diluted. The Aramith product can be diluted with 3 parts water to 1 part product; so, Aramith's 8 oz. bottle will yield 24 ozs. of cleaner/polisher.

I think what it comes down to is convienence and price. I can go anywhere and purchase a bottle of Windex, I have to travel to the nearest billiard product store or send away for Aramith, I have to send away for Blud's cleaner. I'm sure that taking into account what chemicals are used in each product and personal opinion it would be hard to determine which product is actually best for the balls. I've been using Windex for over a year and have seen no detrimental effects on the balls, I use two sets: Brunswick's and Aramith's, top of the line on both. That way I am comfortable with either set a tournament chooses to use. If the balls do begin to show harmful effects as Blud said I'll just purchase another set, I think balls should be replaced on your personal table about every two years if you play a lot; billiards balls take an awful beating, especially the cue ball. I have two cue balls for each of my sets, just in case one gets damaged by flying of the table.

Also, there's the fact that Blud is an advertiser for the forum; this should also rank high when it comes to a purchasing decision. There's always the added advantage of a mail order purchase that you don't have to go anywhere, UPS will deliever the product right to your front door. :D

Joe
Hi Joe,
I've been in the ball cleaner business for 25 years or so. I do know what works best. I have tired most everything, and the polish that's made for phonlics, is best in my opinion. Got more experience than most folks. This, however sdoes not make them wrong or me right. I just know what's good for what were doing.
My polish can also be cut 3 or 4 to one.
blud
 
DeadAim said:
I remember him telling me one time when he visited the manufacturing plant overseas that the chemicals used to make the balls were life treatening if they got into the pores of your skin, he said that axes were spaced around the plant so employees could "chop off" their arms if the chemicals got on their hands.

Are you serious???
 
Hi Blud,

I agree, you know more than we do about cleaning balls. Actually, the reason I kept up with the Windex thing is because I'm sure that over time the products made for cleaning balls will build up some sort of visible residue on the cleaning pads; I just thought the pads would last longer if I used something less "sticky".

I have used Aramith's product but only by hand, I'm sure after diluting it that "sticky" quality is diminshed somewhat.

I'll have to give you a call, I've been meaning to do that but the way things have been going with you I'm not sure when is a good time and I certainly don't want to be a bother.

Maybe order 15 replacement pads along with the cleaner.

Budda,

You're reaction is mild compared to mine when Jimmy told me that, I looked at him like frogs where crawling out of his ears; but yes, it's TRUE.

Joe
 
DeadAim said:
.

Budda,

You're reaction is mild compared to mine when Jimmy told me that, I looked at him like frogs where crawling out of his ears; but yes, it's TRUE.

Joe

Well, alright, that was the strangest thing I heard all month: Employees Expected to Self-Amputate at Saluc, with Hand Axe...unfreakinbelievable...

Thanks Joe for confirming this unpleasant tidbit of info, lol.
 
Budda,

The way Jimmy described this stuff was it is instantaneous, you have to catch it BEFORE it gets into your blood system; no time for doctors or hospitals. JUST WACK AWAY.

Joe
 
call

DeadAim said:
Hi Blud,

I agree, you know more than we do about cleaning balls. Actually, the reason I kept up with the Windex thing is because I'm sure that over time the products made for cleaning balls will build up some sort of visible residue on the cleaning pads; I just thought the pads would last longer if I used something less "sticky".

I have used Aramith's product but only by hand, I'm sure after diluting it that "sticky" quality is diminshed somewhat.

I'll have to give you a call, I've been meaning to do that but the way things have been going with you I'm not sure when is a good time and I certainly don't want to be a bother.

Maybe order 15 replacement pads along with the cleaner.

Budda,

You're reaction is mild compared to mine when Jimmy told me that, I looked at him like frogs where crawling out of his ears; but yes, it's TRUE.

Joe
Sure, Joe, give me a call when you can.830-232-5991.

I'm sure you mean a set of pads and inserts, instead of 15 replacements. The sets are 16 inserts and one turn table pad.

blud
 
My first choice would be ball cleaner, maybe you can order some on the net, and my second choice would be naptha lighter fluid (most any brand), it takes everything off.
 
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