need to heat my table

J

John B

Registered
I would like some advice on heating my Olhausen table and controling the seams on my table. I live in Florida and my table is in my heated and air conditioned garage. Year round the temperature stays between 60 and 80 degrees and 45 and 60% humidity in the garage and of course the table sits on the slab floor. The house is 3 years old so the slab should have settled by now. If someone could show me some pictures of cnverting their billiard table to a heated table. Maybe showing how they are attached to the slate or give me some specific details like what brand of heating strips. Don't just say gutter heaters. In Florida they don't know what gutter heaters are or where to get them.

Secondly any ideas on how to keep my seams smooth. Every 6 monthe my table guy comes in and taps on wood strips to flaten the seams or pulls the cloth back to redo the seams. He also adjusts the shims. All of this is leading to a premature aging of the billiard cloth and that can be expensive.

I'm looking for all the ideas I can get.

John
 
Gutter heaters, couldn't resist.

You might be well served by calling Mark Gregory, a top-level mechanic who posts here under the name 'perfectpocketz'.
 
Don't bother...

1. You do not need to heat your slate, your air-conditioning is probably doing a fine job.

2. Stop sweating about the seams, unless it is really affecting the roll of the balls. Remember that Simonis 300 is really, really thin. You are probably always going to be able to feel the seams or the seam fillers no matter how hard your poor mechanic tries. Accept the fact that it not going to be as smooth as glass and never will be. As long as it is not affecting the roll of the ball, you should be ok.

3. Now unless Olhausen has changed their evil ways, you may wish to check your cloth and rails...I just recently installed some fresh Artemis cushions and Simonis 300 cloth on my ancient Brunswick. I am convinced that it would take a major flood and the application of a layer of sand to slow down the table. The Olhausen Accu-Fast cushions are crap...complete and total crap.

Double check the nose height of the cushions. The nose (edge) of the cushion should hit at 7/10 the height (diameter) of the balls you are using.

If you are shooting with classic 2 3/8 in balls (60.3mm) the nose height should be 42.2mm. If you are shooting with modern international 61.5mm balls the nose height should be 43.1mm. If the rails are hitting way to low, the balls are jumping on the rebound. If the rails are too high, they play "dead."

4. This sounds totally wierd, and I am not trying to be rude, but you may also wish to check on your stroke... Billiard balls play considerably differently than pool balls. But even though they are bigger and heavier, try to avoid "muscling" your stroke and exaggerating your follow-through. Both will kill your spin and momentum.

Good luck and happy shooting!!!
 
Fox523 said:
1. You do not need to heat your slate, your air-conditioning is probably doing a fine job.

2. Stop sweating about the seams, unless it is really affecting the roll of the balls. Remember that Simonis 300 is really, really thin. You are probably always going to be able to feel the seams or the seam fillers no matter how hard your poor mechanic tries. Accept the fact that it not going to be as smooth as glass and never will be. As long as it is not affecting the roll of the ball, you should be ok.

3. Now unless Olhausen has changed their evil ways, you may wish to check your cloth and rails...I just recently installed some fresh Artemis cushions and Simonis 300 cloth on my ancient Brunswick. I am convinced that it would take a major flood and the application of a layer of sand to slow down the table. The Olhausen Accu-Fast cushions are crap...complete and total crap.

Double check the nose height of the cushions. The nose (edge) of the cushion should hit at 7/10 the height (diameter) of the balls you are using.

If you are shooting with classic 2 3/8 in balls (60.3mm) the nose height should be 42.2mm. If you are shooting with modern international 61.5mm balls the nose height should be 43.1mm. If the rails are hitting way to low, the balls are jumping on the rebound. If the rails are too high, they play "dead."

4. This sounds totally wierd, and I am not trying to be rude, but you may also wish to check on your stroke... Billiard balls play considerably differently than pool balls. But even though they are bigger and heavier, try to avoid "muscling" your stroke and exaggerating your follow-through. Both will kill your spin and momentum.

Good luck and happy shooting!!!
Click to expand...


I agree! ACCU FAST=GARBAGE!
 
Fox523 said:
... Double check the nose height of the cushions. The nose (edge) of the cushion should hit at 7/10 the height (diameter) of the balls you are using. ...
Click to expand...
I have seen this number before, and I believe it is wrong -- much too high. I understand the (very simplified) theory that says 0.7, but that's not what real mechanics and table companies do, I'm pretty sure.

Ask a good mechanic.
 
Fair enough, Mr Jewett.

The 7/10 point of percussion is just an old standard of sorts. It would be interesting to find out what the true perfect nose height/ball diameter ratio is. Please let me know if you find out!
 
From the World Rules of Carom Billiards, (http://www.umb.org/Rules/Carom_Rules.pdf)

Chapter II, Article 11, Paragraph 3 stipulates 37 mm, plus or minus 1 mm for the height of the foremost point of the cushion. For carom balls between 61 and 61.5 mm, the figure would work out to around 60.4%.

I'm not sure what 'good mechanics' do, but this is what the specification is. Hope this information helps.

mac
 
Heating a table

I just joined the website and saw you post. I heated my 3 cushion billiard table and documented the process. If you are still interested let me know how I can get it to you electronically.
Larry
John B said:
I would like some advice on heating my Olhausen table and controling the seams on my table. I live in Florida and my table is in my heated and air conditioned garage. Year round the temperature stays between 60 and 80 degrees and 45 and 60% humidity in the garage and of course the table sits on the slab floor. The house is 3 years old so the slab should have settled by now. If someone could show me some pictures of cnverting their billiard table to a heated table. Maybe showing how they are attached to the slate or give me some specific details like what brand of heating strips. Don't just say gutter heaters. In Florida they don't know what gutter heaters are or where to get them.

Secondly any ideas on how to keep my seams smooth. Every 6 monthe my table guy comes in and taps on wood strips to flaten the seams or pulls the cloth back to redo the seams. He also adjusts the shims. All of this is leading to a premature aging of the billiard cloth and that can be expensive.

I'm looking for all the ideas I can get.

John
Click to expand...
 
Larryinstlouie said:
I just joined the website and saw you post. I heated my 3 cushion billiard table and documented the process. If you are still interested let me know how I can get it to you electronically.
Larry
Click to expand...

I've seen Larry's write-up on his conversion and recommend anyone wanting to heat their table give it a look. He did a nice job documenting the process. Clear text, and helpful pictures.

mac
 
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