New cloth effects on banks?

measureman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The pool room just yesterday installed new Simonis 860 on the Diamond 9 foot tables.
Will new cloth on the rails changes banking angles until it's broken in?
 
The pool room just yesterday installed new Simonis 860 on the Diamond 9 foot tables.
Will new cloth on the rails changes banking angles until it's broken in?
I have seen it change due to new cloth. And if the balls are newer and still polished it seems to double the effect.
 
What change?
Do the banks shorten or lengthen?
I'm just guessing since I haven't played on new cloth in decades.
My guess is a simple cross side shot, say ob is 1diamond from opposite pocket there wouldn't be a change.
If you're hitting a 3, 4 or 5 rail bank or even a long cross corner shot, I would expect it to go long.
Especially if you playing with new or nicely cleaned balls.
Slide being the issue.
 
The pool room just yesterday installed new Simonis 860 on the Diamond 9 foot tables.
Will new cloth on the rails changes banking angles until it's broken in?

You are the self-proclaimed best player at your local room and don't know the answer to this?
 
Speed does not shorten the angle directly. It is the follow or lack of it on the banking ball that shortens the angle. This is an important distinction.

Speed definitely effects the bank, the harder it hits the rubber, the more it compresses and the shallower it rebounds off. You can change the destination of a cross-corner by at least 2 diamonds depending on the power. The harder the ball is hit, the less the spin matters too

That's why all the old school bankers "hit it with authority"
 
Speed does not shorten the angle directly. It is the follow or lack of it on the banking ball that shortens the angle. This is an important distinction.
I'm not disputing your facts, just wondering, when I first played on a 9 foot Diamond ( the older red label Diamonds) - I noticed that they banked shorter than a Brunswick or an Olhausen, when the bank shot was hit a the same speed. Does that then mean the Diamond table somehow imparted more or less follow on the OB off the cushion - is that bc Diamond rails are higher in profile than other brand name pool tables?

Playing on the newer Diamond tables, I still see a slight difference in rebound angle from older name brand pool tables- but not as much as the older Diamonds- thanks for any info that you can shed on this subject!

Of course, if this is true, I would wonder why a table mfg. company would decide to change rebound angles, I know that people say the Red labels were constructed incorrectly, as are Olhausen pocket configurations constructed incorrectly ( IMO, the infamous Olhausen pocket rattle); I always felt that the original Gold Crown I from Brunswick were true to correct pocket angles and correct cushion rebound angles - wherever I played on them in the 60s and 70s especially.
 
I'm not disputing your facts, just wondering, when I first played on a 9 foot Diamond ( the older red label Diamonds) - I noticed that they banked shorter than a Brunswick or an Olhausen, when the bank shot was hit a the same speed. Does that then mean the Diamond table somehow imparted more or less follow on the OB off the cushion - is that bc Diamond rails are higher in profile than other brand name pool tables?

Playing on the newer Diamond tables, I still see a slight difference in rebound angle from older name brand pool tables- but not as much as the older Diamonds- thanks for any info that you can shed on this subject!

Of course, if this is true, I would wonder why a table mfg. company would decide to change rebound angles, I know that people say the Red labels were constructed incorrectly, as are Olhausen pocket configurations constructed incorrectly ( IMO, the infamous Olhausen pocket rattle); I always felt that the original Gold Crown I from Brunswick were true to correct pocket angles and correct cushion rebound angles - wherever I played on them in the 60s and 70s especially.
In my experience cushions bank shorter if they are low. Cushions are complicated with varying rubber profiles, heights, materials, mounting angles,....

As far as the "correct" rebound angle, I think most people expect whatever they learned on and if that was before 1990 it was probably on Gold Crowns. They were the standard for a long time.
 
I'm not disputing your facts, just wondering, when I first played on a 9 foot Diamond ( the older red label Diamonds) - I noticed that they banked shorter than a Brunswick or an Olhausen, when the bank shot was hit a the same speed. Does that then mean the Diamond table somehow imparted more or less follow on the OB off the cushion - is that bc Diamond rails are higher in profile than other brand name pool tables?

Playing on the newer Diamond tables, I still see a slight difference in rebound angle from older name brand pool tables- but not as much as the older Diamonds- thanks for any info that you can shed on this subject!

Of course, if this is true, I would wonder why a table mfg. company would decide to change rebound angles, I know that people say the Red labels were constructed incorrectly, as are Olhausen pocket configurations constructed incorrectly ( IMO, the infamous Olhausen pocket rattle); I always felt that the original Gold Crown I from Brunswick were true to correct pocket angles and correct cushion rebound angles - wherever I played on them in the 60s and 70s especially.
If we had a decent "governing body" Diamond would have been made to conform. We should never have tolerated Diamond. Such a weak sport.
 
If we had a decent "governing body" Diamond would have been made to conform. We should never have tolerated Diamond. Such a weak sport.
Where would that end?? Pocket size too? Exact pocket angles? Cloth color too?

People who ground their teeth on GC's will continue to say Diamonds bank wrong until the last player of the era kicks the bucket. The new players who ground their teeth on Diamonds will say GC's bank wrong because they go too long. Its just a changing of the guard.
 
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