New cloth effects on banks?

A small nit. While the UMB may have been formed in 1959, I think that was basically a renaming of the UIFAB which was formed in 1923. I suspect the related changes in constitution/bylaws were to comply with the perceived requirements of the IOC,
Of course I knew that?!?!?
 
If we had a decent "governing body" Diamond would have been made to conform. We should never have tolerated Diamond. Such a weak sport.
I've mostly banked on Diamond tables and that's just what I've learned to expect. They are usually consistent. I know tht for other equipment I have to play with it to learn.
 
My eyes glazed over throughout the 4 pages, but what would you all consider THE proper bank to ascertain how a table will play?

I’d imagine you’d have to play one off the end rail and then try to tighten a couple up cross side to get a feel, but I’m just a hack.
 
Check, Varmintkong. My third "practice bank" is the classic 3 railer from the kitchen to the side rail at the opposite end of the table that then bends back to the corner in kitchen. On a GC, assuming the table is sound and set up properly, when the CB comes off the second rail, I know if the shot is good or what adjustment(s) may be necessary. For some unknown reason, Kim Steels are the same, very much the same. I've never been able to understand the Diamonds. I suppose, due to my frustration with Diamond's design decision, I've never been able to force myself to properly apply myself. I'd rather burn 'em and bitch.
 
I imagine you'd have to take the three basic types (straight, running cut, reversing cut) through the three or more bend zones times the range of speed you use times the zones you have it calibrated to, to get a good picture.
In the PA 1P even Scott Frost had problems with the typical Brunswick "wideness".
 
My eyes glazed over throughout the 4 pages, but what would you all consider THE proper bank to ascertain how a table will play?

I’d imagine you’d have to play one off the end rail and then try to tighten a couple up cross side to get a feel, but I’m just a hack.
I like the classic 3 rail from one corner to the other. For judging cushions, I'd rather do kick shots. It eliminates the variable of a second ball. That and a few shots with spin to assess how much the rails grab. I'm also just a hack so YMMV.
 
I like the classic 3 rail from one corner to the other. For judging cushions, I'd rather do kick shots. It eliminates the variable of a second ball. That and a few shots with spin to assess how much the rails grab. I'm also just a hack so YMMV.
Yes on kicks for evaluating cushions. When adjusting, spin comes into play after angle. Adding an object ball when spin is a variable gets, as they say, complicated. As far as shot making goes, I think I use a set speed (medium/firm) whether banking or kicking.

As I so often find when writing about technical aspects of pool, I would much prefer that we were all standing around a pool table and demonstrating concepts rather than writing. So much communication gets lost in the word salad.

As far as hacks go, its like the kid in the joke said, "I'm afraid I are one, too."
 
... what would you all consider THE proper bank to ascertain how a table will play? ...
Three cushion, corner to corner, as others have mentioned is one shot. Maybe more useful for one-rail shots is shooting from the corner to just your side of the opposite side pocket. A roller ought to be close to scratching one rail. A slider should come short, but how short?
 
Three cushion, corner to corner, as others have mentioned is one shot. Maybe more useful for one-rail shots is shooting from the corner to just your side of the opposite side pocket. A roller ought to be close to scratching one rail. A slider should come short, but how short?
I have a recommended set of kick and banks shots to test out a table in the videos here:

 
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