New Tip Job....What Say Ye?

[Scott Lee]

...and what exactly do YOU know about tip/ferrule replacement Tim? Nothing? I thought so. Jaden has done hundreds if not thousands of replacements. He manufactures tips that play well! I think he knows just a bit more than you...or me! Once again, I love how you add something positive to a thread...NOT!

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

So, you didn't do a single thing he asked for but think you've a customer for life? Erm...:shrug::scratchhead:

 

[MSchaffer]

This is what is under the OB shaft. This particular shaft is an OB-1 about to get a new ferrule, pad and tip.

If the pad comes off during an install, the correct repair is to fill the 'hole' with epoxy, then face it off at the level of the tenon/ferrule. Then install a new carbon fiber pad. Then install a tip.

I don't see a pad under the (blurry) tip.

That will cause not only the tip to likely pop off, but also crack the ferrule. You can see in this picture how very thin OB ferrules are.

 

[Ron Swanson]

...and what exactly do YOU know about tip/ferrule replacement Tim? Nothing? I thought so. Jaden has done hundreds if not thousands of replacements. He manufactures tips that play well! I think he knows just a bit more than you...or me! Once again, I love how you add something positive to a thread...NOT!

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Lol. Your stalks always cheer me up, especially when you get things wrong, which is always.

Anyway, replacing tips has nothing to do with my point. Now, stay with me here, scott, but if a customer came to you and asked for advice on how to bend over at the table, say, and you told him to shoot from a vertical position, do you think he would come back to you?

The customer is always right - except in Pool.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Mr ChicagoRJ,

Let me introduce myself, I'm KJ though you may call me whatever you like including 'hack'.
I've been building 26 yrs now and have run the Seyberts Custom-Shop for 14 yrs.
I was one of the first C-Tecs authorized by Predator when the Repair-Station program was introduced.
To the best of my knowledge, Seyberts now does all of the Predator repair work in this country.
That became too much even for me so I've instructed some of Sey's people on the fine points of replacing ferrules, etc.
I no longer do Predator warranty work unless called upon. I wanted to make that correction to what Terry has stated.
I appreciate that Terry would speak on my behalf but when I have to defend my credentials I'm quite capable of speaking for myself.

Because I didn't respond with an opinion matching your own is of no concern to me. I've considered the source.
You're entitled to your opinion as am I. I have something on which to base that opinion. I've at least installed a tip.

"Usually, the "good" ones will stand up and say it's bad work, and not defend it." ??? Viva la difference.

The truth is that the good ones know what really went down and have chosen not to argue with those that don't.

"Then he should not defend inferior work."

I don't. I'm very critical of the work I see and the work I do. I didn't get to where I am by allowing crap.
What I will defend is the integrity of an installer who did his job as requested and is now being blamed for
pre-existing conditions of the shaft. The hash marks on the ferrule were obviously done during a previous tip install.
Apparently the owner of the shaft was OK with that because that wasn't his complaint. All he wanted was a tip-tool.
This thread is about one persons opinion of a tip install that was probably done weeks ago on a shaft that he doesn't even own.

People, if it's alright with you, I've got a life to live and this bash-session has gone on far too long.

KJ

I learnt long ago to ignore yappy. He's the biggest troll on azb.

 

[Ron Swanson]

Ahem...The ferrule is thinner on one side because of uneven hand sanding. I've always done my own tips, mostly by hand and my ferrules don't look like this and I get the tip flush as well. And all the scratches in the ferrule suggest that the person has been using worn out chalk and grinding the tip into the side of it, or using some kind of neanderthal tip tool.

Number one: Do not excessively sand your shaft. Buy the "cue papers" to smooth it out and use a towel to wipe off chalk regularly. Retapering should be done on a lather or some sort of shaft spinner jig.
Number two: Use fresh or properly used chalk without a huge hole in it.
Number three: Don't use those idiotic tip tools that scratch up your ferrule.
Failing any of these: Get used to playing with "Players" brand shafts. That way it's cheap to replace after you ruin it, which you will, and it comes with a free Kamui tip.[/i

 

[Ron Swanson]

This is what is under the OB shaft. This particular shaft is an OB-1 about to get a new ferrule, pad and tip.

If the pad comes off during an install, the correct repair is to fill the 'hole' with epoxy, then face it off at the level of the tenon/ferrule. Then install a new carbon fiber pad. Then install a tip.

I don't see a pad under the (blurry) tip.

That will cause not only the tip to likely pop off, but also crack the ferrule. You can see in this picture how very thin OB ferrules are.

Amazing picture...

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

shaft

This is what is under the OB shaft. This particular shaft is an OB-1 about to get a new ferrule, pad and tip.

If the pad comes off during an install, the correct repair is to fill the 'hole' with epoxy, then face it off at the level of the tenon/ferrule. Then install a new carbon fiber pad. Then install a tip.

I don't see a pad under the (blurry) tip.

That will cause not only the tip to likely pop off, but also crack the ferrule. You can see in this picture how very thin OB ferrules are.

That shaft has to be warped because the tenon is no longer centered.

Honestly that looks terrible, looks like part of the tenon is ready to fall off.

Could the tenon be covered with epoxy and re turned ,
just to fill the holes and hold what wood is there together?

I would make 100% sure the customer see's and knows the condition of the tenon and understands the repair is considered a salvage repair and there is no warranty on any of the work you are doing to save what is left of that shaft..........

 

[KRJ]

Mr ChicagoRJ,

Let me introduce myself, I'm KJ though you may call me whatever you like including 'hack'.
I've been building 26 yrs now and have run the Seyberts Custom-Shop for 14 yrs.

KJ

That's great, then you should know what a professional tip installation looks like, and that was NOT it. Maybe 26 years from now, you will learn, who knows, anything is possible. So, if you think that tip was installed properly and you would do it the exact same way in your shop, then sorry, you be a hack

 

[KRJ]

View attachment 373651

Fresh off the lathe, what one should look like

That's what my tip looks like after an install from a professional. NICE :thumbup:

 

[MSchaffer]

That shaft has to be warped because the tenon is no longer centered.

Honestly that looks terrible, looks like part of the tenon is ready to fall off.

Could the tenon be covered with epoxy and re turned ,
just to fill the holes and hold what wood is there together?

I would make 100% sure the customer see's and knows the condition of the tenon and understands the repair is considered a salvage repair and there is no warranty on any of the work you are doing to save what is left of that shaft..........

Fortunately, it turned out ok (and it is my shaft, not a customers), and I felt exactly the same. I sent this pic and a few others to OB, and they told me they couldn't tell from the pictures if it was off center, but that I could send it to them, and they would look at it closer. Nice gesture, but I didnt want to spend $25 shipping each way on a chance they might replace the shaft. I thought the pic was pretty self explanatory.