No-ferrule shaft abused on purpose?

Patrick Johnson said:
So I only get to know why it's worth buying after I buy it?

No thanks.

pj
chgo
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Let's face it PJ, no matter what I tell you, the proof is in your experience. You can form an educated opinion from the reviews posted about our shaft, and know exactly what to expect. If you buy the shaft, I am sure we will talk, and then you are more than welcome to pick my brain about our shaft.

There is more than enough information about our shaft to let you know it is worth purchasing.
 
I have been using a shaft witout a ferrule but add a pad under the tip for several years. I started with the flat laminated shaft. I used it for a few months and did split the shaft while breaking. I changed to a standard shaft and have been using it for a few years with no problem. I also hollow the end of the shaft out. I do break with the shaft but not at full force. I would not advise using one to break with.
 
will8834 said:
I have been using a shaft witout a ferrule but add a pad under the tip for several years. I started with the flat laminated shaft. I used it for a few months and did split the shaft while breaking. I changed to a standard shaft and have been using it for a few years with no problem. I also hollow the end of the shaft out. I do break with the shaft but not at full force. I would not advise using one to break with.
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When we first introduced our shaft, Will was quick to offer his experience and advice on ferrule-less shafts. Knowing he, and others, had been down the road we were just beginning to travel made it more comfortable. Thanks Will, you are much appreciated.
 
Hierovision said:
Has anyone slammed balls around on a table with a no-ferrule shaft to test resilience? If so, what were your results? I've been wondering about no-ferrule shafts for a while but never actually used one.
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I've been playing with no ferrule since about 1978. I like it for reduced squirt. Originally, I didn't understand that you needed a pad, and the front of the shaft split a little, which I fixed with epoxy and put a pad and tip on.

I think that the efficiency/elasticity of the hit has a lot more to do with the tip than the shaft. It is the tip that stores most of the energy during compression and has to release it as the ball leaves the tip. Phenolic tips, which are illegal according to the official equipment specifications, are better at returning stored energy and so give higher ball speed for the same stick speed.
 
Bob Jewett said:
I've been playing with no ferrule since about 1978. I like it for reduced squirt. Originally, I didn't understand that you needed a pad, and the front of the shaft split a little, which I fixed with epoxy and put a pad and tip on.

I think that the efficiency/elasticity of the hit has a lot more to do with the tip than the shaft. It is the tip that stores most of the energy during compression and has to release it as the ball leaves the tip. Phenolic tips, which are illegal according to the official equipment specifications, are better at returning stored energy and so give higher ball speed for the same stick speed.
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Thank you Bob and everyone else that contributed. I will be trying a no-ferrule tip along with a 314-2 when my Starkey is built :wink:
 
Bob Jewett said:
I think that the efficiency/elasticity of the hit has a lot more to do with the tip than the shaft. It is the tip that stores most of the energy during compression and has to release it as the ball leaves the tip. Phenolic tips, which are illegal according to the official equipment specifications, are better at returning stored energy and so give higher ball speed for the same stick speed.
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If people are curious, here's a video Bob and I filmed on this topic:


Regards,
Dave
 
Hi Guys,

here's my #1 personal playing cue in term of hit and playability....I've been playing with a Joel Weinstock for years and was not able to find anything that would play better until now. The cue is heavy at 17.1 oz for the butt and all the shafts are from 4.0oz to 4.6oz (my main playing shaft with just the black collar). For the weight of the cue, I have no problem with drawing the cue ball table length with the object ball at the pocket and my cue ball at the end rail. These no ferrule shafts are the dead nuts and plays dead solid. I have a hard Molavia installed on all on my shafts and all I can said that it nice to have a lathe. One of the perk of having a cue lathe is that you can try to build yourself the dream cue and today this the only cue that I would be proud to passed down to my sons.

No ferrule shafts playability derived from the fact that you must start with exceptional shaft wood quality and they may differ from builder to builder...I've experiment with all type of shaft quality and have my own selection criteria that I think are required for a great playing shaft. It's rare to find shaft that has all the quality but I think the good cue builders are able to recognized them easily. If you look at my main playing shaft...the shaft has kinda shine and glitter in the light...the vertical and near perfect straight grain says a lot of about the playability without you have to hit a ball....funny enough..the shaft on my Weinstock has the same quality.

Check out my shafts quality on this full splice cue.

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http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/0/3/9/5/3/2/webimg/341994487_o.jpg
 
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