OAL of jump cue?

ratcues

Theewen Custom Cues
Silver Member
What is your perfect over-all-length for a jump cue? I make mine 44" and people like its performance but it will not fit in the side pocket of most cases. Do you believe there is a benefit one way or the other?
 
I make mine 31". 12" butt and 29" shaft. I can't build them fast enough. I use a purple heart shaft and no ferrul just a tip pad.
 
What is your perfect over-all-length for a jump cue? I make mine 44" and people like its performance but it will not fit in the side pocket of most cases. Do you believe there is a benefit one way or the other?

My standard jump cue is 41 inches, however, I have made some 47 inches long at a customers request. I do not think the length has much to do with performance, in my opinion length is something that is based on what individual players need for their game.

JIMO
 
Curious why you would use purpleheart for a shaft? I was always under the impression the lighter the jump cue the better.

It's way stiffer and the extra weight is so far forward that it helps some jack up on the cue ball to jump. I've never had any complaints about the weight...even from the doubters. This year I started making full splice jump shafts...stiffer but lighter.
 
For optimal jumping height and ease of use, you want overall light weight, but lots of deflection, which means the end of the shaft wants some extra weight.
Stiff seems to help a little, but doesn't have nearly the effect that a weighted shaft does. Too much end mass starts to defeat the purpose though, there's definitely a curve, with a sweet spot.
 
Purple heart is stiff an I can take it down to 12.65mm which seems to help people hold on to it when they realy have to Jack up. Plus that cuts some of the weight. I don't belive lighter is always better since it makes it harder to control with an open bridge. There is a sweet spot you have to find.
 
Interesting.......I guess I learned something today.
There was guy in Toledo that could unscrew his shaft off his playing cue and jump the length of a bar box and draw the cueball back to the same end he shot from. This of course was before they outlawed this style and made the length ..(42"?) a minimum. He's probably in prison now.
I guess that's where my thinking of lighter was a better idea.
I don't build the gimmick cues so I'm a little out of the loop on them.
 
i like them light and short.41" or whatever the legal limit is,i have actually made some that are slightly illegally short.i like them light but not feather light.Maple actually seems to make a great jump handle for me.i also like them a little on the fat side,maybe 13.5mm and like Sheldon said heavy,big ferrules.
 
I just got to try out Royce's (Ob cues) new jump cue. His is like a 46" OAL. I was told it was made out of a special wood that was stiff but can be brittle. It looked like ash to me but they wouldn't say. It was around six ounces. I tryed it out and it jumped well but it was so good I felt like I couldn't keep the cue ball under control. I am a good jumper and I have just become used to my cue I guess. It would be great for some one who was learning or had a hard time jumping. It was comparable to a preditor air. Over all great cue, just not my weight.
 
I usually supply two handles for jump cues. One standard handle, and one that's simply a 3/8" diameter dowel with threads milled in one end.
This allows you to either shoot the typical underhand shot, (generally more accurate) or do the "shaft jump" type of shot for really close work.
 
I had a Frog and a Tad Pole. I could jump pretty well with the Tad Pole.
A friend wanted it so I sold it to him and switched to the Frog. The only difference between the two is the handle on the Frog is a couple of inches longer. I can't jump worth a darn with it.
Essentially both cues are the same at least the same manufacturer.
The only difference being in length.
Is it just in my head or can 2 inches in the handle make a big difference in how I jump?
I know the girls might have something to say about that one.
 
So far, it appears to me, that virtually all of the engineering that has gone into jump cues has been to get over the interfering ball. When do we decide to make jump cues that help you make the ball instead of just getting over the trouble.
 
Interesting observation. What do you thnik can be worked on / changed. I have worked on this problem my self. It seems to me that if you don't have a good stroke and the correct aim you won't make anything. There is not much you can do with the cue but make it come off the table faster with less elivation of the cue. That way it helps people aim and a more natral stroke. I would love to hear your thoughts.
 
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