OB-1 question(s)

tjlmbklr

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have played with the 314 and liked how it felt. It was easier to get the draw and I like the 12.75mm shaft diameter. Does anyone here have an opinion if the OB-1 shaft has a more solid feeling hit, and what’s with the ferrule, it looks a little different?


And the other thing I need to know, which will make or break whether I would buy one or not; is this shaft available in 30 inches? I could not find anything on the Internet regarding 30 inch OB-1's
 
tjlmbklr said:
I have played with the 314 and liked how it felt. It was easier to get the draw and I like the 12.75mm shaft diameter. Does anyone here have an opinion if the OB-1 shaft has a more solid feeling hit, and what’s with the ferrule, it looks a little different?


And the other thing I need to know, which will make or break whether I would buy one or not; is this shaft available in 30 inches? I could not find anything on the Internet regarding 30 inch OB-1's
Click to expand...

I really like the hit of the OB-1 better than the 314 or my Schuler shaft.
You would think the ferrule would be distracting while you are stroking, but it isn't. I remember reading somewhere that you could order the OB-1 Shaft in 29 or 30 inches. You might want to email Royce about that.:cool:

Tanner Pruess
 
i just got a paypal bill for my ob-1 yesterday.........yes you can get it in 30", mine is. Ive briefly shot with a 314 but havent used one enough to have an opinion. I should be gettin my ob1 this coming week, ill do a review.
 
When I hit with a OB-1 I found that I got more feel with my 314 but that might just be because my 314 was on my P2 and the OB-1 was not. I wasn't very impressed with the shaft, I personally thought it looked very ugly. But I have seen many a happy customer playing with their OB-1 so maybe you will like.
 
I received an OB-1 from Royce to try out as well. I only got to spend a few hours with it before my buddy decided he couldn't live without it. I found it was a bit "dead" feeling in the hit...compared to my 314 & Tiger shafts. That could be because of the Triangle tip that came on it or maybe the wood layered ferrule. I was going to change out the ferrule to Grice with a Sniper, just as I have my 314 & Tiger, but my friend loved the look of the wood ferrule. Of course he's a woodworker by trade, so he loves anything wood. The time I did spend playing with the OB-1 I found that your eye did not catch or notice the new type ferrule. The shaft did perform well as advertised. Inside english was fine and it would draw the rock with minimal effort. The taper was very nice as well. I must be honest and say that the one example of the OB-1 shaft that I had...did have some large glue lines. Under the ferrule it had two places that actually looked like large cracks that had been glued together. Maybe mine was a bad example...but the cosmetics were less than 100%. That being said, my friend who owns it now (and is a top area player) uses it all the time and absolutely loves it. The new Tiger shaft I made him remains in his case.
 
I've had a lot of experiencing demoing various OB-1 shafts to customers. All sorts of different joints, lengths (29 and 30) and tips.

It used to be that OB-1 shafts came with a Triangle by default (unless you specified Talisman or Moori). They have since changed the standard tip to Talisman Medium which is a very good move. Not because Triangle tips are bad -- they're just not consistent. In a batch of tips, some will hit great and some won't.

The tip makes a big difference in how the shaft hits. Some of my customers have let me hit with their shafts after they installed their own brand of tip, and the feel and hit is noticeably different. Personally I play with a Moori Medium. For those that want something with more oomph, try a Proline Medium or Hard.
 
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TannerPruess said:
I really like the hit of the OB-1 better than the 314 or my Schuler shaft.
You would think the ferrule would be distracting while you are stroking, but it isn't. I remember reading somewhere that you could order the OB-1 Shaft in 29 or 30 inches. You might want to email Royce about that.:cool:

Tanner Pruess
Click to expand...

Tanner,

I know you are a good player so I would like to hear your comment.

When I met Royce and tried out his shaft in VF, he told me the shaft was filled with a shock absorbant. He said it did not violate the Predator patent because it was filled, rather than hollow. I believe he told me the whole shaft pretty much had a hollow section going down all the way and was filled with this foam material, is that correct?

I tried the shaft, and my personal impression is that it had a softer hit. I believe some shock aborbant was used because I could feel lesser vibration, although the shaft had quite a long taper. I think lesser vibration will lead to a more solid feel; lesser vibration also means lesser feedback.

What I would like to ask you is what do you think about the sensitivity of the shaft. What do you think about the feedback of this shaft?

Are you using the shaft with the carbon fibre pad?

Royce and his partners seemed very intelligent, I am glad you are using their product and like it. Being a good player, your endorsement will certainly bring them more business.

Richard
 
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Varney Cues said:
I received an OB-1 from Royce to try out as well. I only got to spend a few hours with it before my buddy decided he couldn't live without it. I found it was a bit "dead" feeling in the hit...compared to my 314 & Tiger shafts. That could be because of the Triangle tip that came on it or maybe the wood layered ferrule. I was going to change out the ferrule to Grice with a Sniper, just as I have my 314 & Tiger, but my friend loved the look of the wood ferrule. Of course he's a woodworker by trade, so he loves anything wood. The time I did spend playing with the OB-1 I found that your eye did not catch or notice the new type ferrule. The shaft did perform well as advertised. Inside english was fine and it would draw the rock with minimal effort. The taper was very nice as well. I must be honest and say that the one example of the OB-1 shaft that I had...did have some large glue lines. Under the ferrule it had two places that actually looked like large cracks that had been glued together. Maybe mine was a bad example...but the cosmetics were less than 100%. That being said, my friend who owns it now (and is a top area player) uses it all the time and absolutely loves it. The new Tiger shaft I made him remains in his case.
Click to expand...


Doesn't changing the ferrule change the Deflection properties of the shaft? After all isn't this why OB-1 and Predator have there own different Ferrule types?
 
tjlmbklr said:
Doesn't changing the ferrule change the Deflection properties of the shaft? After all isn't this why OB-1 and Predator have there own different Ferrule types?
Click to expand...

Yes, changing the ferrule would change a Predator or OB-1 shaft drastically.
 
nipponbilliards said:
Tanner,

I know you are a good player so I would like to hear your comment.

When I met Royce and tried out his shaft in VF, he told me the shaft was filled with a shock absorbant. He said it did not violate the Predator patent because it was filled, rather than hollow. I believe he told me the whole shaft pretty much had a hollow section going down all the way and was filled with this foam material, and the first few inches had a thicker cavity which was also filled with this foam material. He explained to me because of the hollow section in the front end, it was not really possible to change the front end taper too much. Is that correct?

I tried the shaft, and my personal impression is that it had a softer hit. I believe some shock aborbant was used because I could feel lesser vibration, although the shaft had quite a long taper. I think lesser vibration will lead to a more solid feel; lesser vibration also means lesser feedback.

What I would like to ask you is what do you think about the sensitivity of the shaft. What do you think about the feedback of this shaft?

Are you using the shaft with the carbon fibre pad?

Royce and his partners seemed very intelligent, I am glad you are using their product and like it. Being a good player, your endorsement will certainly bring them more business.

Richard
Click to expand...

The feedback is the same as my Schuler shafts. I am not quite sure how to categorize the feedback, but it suits my game very well.
I no longer use the carbon fibre pad. I went to my cue repairsman to get a new tip and he told me that the pad would produce a different hit/feel than the Schuler shafts. So I decided to have him take it off and I liked the shaft much more with a new tip and no fibre pad.

Hope that helped.
Tanner Pruess
 
TannerPruess said:
The feedback is the same as my Schuler shafts. I am not quite sure how to categorize the feedback, but it suits my game very well.
I no longer use the carbon fibre pad. I went to my cue repairsman to get a new tip and he told me that the pad would produce a different hit/feel than the Schuler shafts. So I decided to have him take it off and I liked the shaft much more with a new tip and no fibre pad.

Hope that helped.
Tanner Pruess
Click to expand...
Tanner,

Are you worried that your ferrule might crack without the pad?

What Schuler shaft did you use? Was it the low deflection version?

Thank you for your prompt answer.

Richard
 
nipponbilliards said:
Tanner,

Are you worried that your ferrule might crack without the pad?

What Schuler shaft did you use? Was it the low deflection version?

Thank you for your prompt answer.

Richard
Click to expand...

The cue repairsman said it shouldn't crack without the pad. So I went with what he said, he has been repairing cues and shafts for a long time.

I do shoot with the low deflection Schuler shaft. How did you guess??:p

Your Welcome
Tanner Pruess
 
Hello All,

I thought I might chime in and answer some questions about the OB-1.

About the vibration dampening foam core.
Yes, we bore the shaft all the way through during the constuction of the shaft. We then fill the final 4 inches with wood, and the rest with the foam rubber core. The purpose of the core is to dampen linear vibrations that travel up and down the cue. These type of vibrations move from end to end very very fast. They result in the "ping" sound that some cues or shafts have. Our core dampens these vibrations very well, but does little or nothing to dampen lateral vibrations. Lateral vibrations are the feedback that you get when you hit the cueball off center. As a player, I want the lateral vibrations or feedback, but I do not want the linear vibrations or noise. The OB-1, has accomplished this very well. The hit is often described as a little softer than most cues, but the one word that we hear from everyone is "solid".

About the carbon fiber disc.
The pad under the tip on the OB-1 is not a conventional vulcanized fiber pad like we are all used to. The pad is actually a carbon fiber disc. The disc is a very important part of the shaft and should not be removed. The specific gravity of the disc is roughly the same as a tip, so it does not affect the performance at all. We noticed no noticable change in the hit either when we added the carbon disc. What the disc does is bridge all the materials together at the tip end of the shaft. I have used one on my break cue for almost a year now and have had no problems. The disc also makes it easier for your cuesmith to replace the tip. He just treats the disc like it is the ferrule.

I have to say that we have been very pleased with the responses we are getting from players all over the world. We will be putting a testimonials page on our website soon, so if you have something to say, send it to us so we can post it!

I apologize for not watching this and other forums lately. We have been very busy in the shop. We are starting to get caught up now and I will be paying more attention in the future. As always, I welcome any questions anyone has. Just send me an email so I know I will see it in a timely fashion.

Royce Bunnell
rbunnell@obcues.com
www.obcues.com
 
Changing the ferrules on a 314 or Tiger is suppose to be a bad thing. Will make the shaft play terrible and be worthless. Well I'll be one to stand up and call BS!!! First of all...if you've ever cut the ferrule off of either then you know how incredibly thin the wood is that actually holds the ferrule in place. Plus the Pred. ferrules are an extremely soft plastic that refuses to stay clean. Now I'm talking about someone doing quality work and not the crap some cue repair people try to pass off as quality. I've done this trick hundreds of times to many top players and pros 314 shafts and have had nothing but positive results. After cutting off the original ferrule I then drill out 3/4 of an inch and thread in a maple tenon. This allows me to thread on an Aegis or Grice ferrule and also allows me if desired to have the tenon pass through the entire ferrule so the tip is actually touching wood. The new high tech shafts are trying to have a low end mass that allows for lesser deflection. Thats fine...the tenon I use plus the 1 inch ferrule (drilled with a big 5/16 hole) actually weighs no more than the original parts. The new ferrule is a much stronger material that will stay clean plus its threaded into place...not slipped on plastic. Everyone is very happy with the way I make the 314's and Tigers play. Most all even comment that they even play better. I even have several top players that when they first get a new 314...my shop is their first stop...to get a quality ferrule. Low end mass is nothing really new in shaft technology. Bob Meucci was doing it years ago with his thin wall plastic ferrules. Anyone notice that even the new Meucci ferrules are VERY thin and actually hollow at the very end. Many different ways to skin a cat. I challenge anyone who plays with a 314 or Tiger and has enough talent & knowledge to tell the difference...to hit a few balls with my cue to compare. And I'll gladly cut you a deal when you want it done to your 314 too!!! After all...you've watched pros on TV play perfect with their 314 shaft & my ferrule...they don't have a problem or miss balls due to the ferrule change. Don't be a fool...of course some people think that if they put their "dot" up on their shaft that will make them play better too. LOL!!!!
 
tjlmbklr said:
Doesn't changing the ferrule change the Deflection properties of the shaft? After all isn't this why OB-1 and Predator have there own different Ferrule types?
Click to expand...
One example would be the new BK2 by Predator which features the ivorine 3 ferrule. It is a different ferrule, but obviously, they believe that it will not really deflect any more than the older model.

Grice is a very light material, it depends on how you change the ferrule, you can have various results as a result of the change.

I do not like Grice because it gets dirty very easily, and it has a lot of little holes on the surface. But I think it is probably one of the lightest linen fibre out there.

For example, if you switch a Grice ferrule on a 314 shaft but drill a deeper hole, would this change the amount of squirt?

Again, what if you switch a grice ferrule on a OB 1 but reduce the tip size, what would happen?


Richard
 
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Varney Cues said:
Changing the ferrules on a 314 or Tiger is suppose to be a bad thing. Will make the shaft play terrible and be worthless. Well I'll be one to stand up and call BS!!! First of all...if you've ever cut the ferrule off of either then you know how incredibly thin the wood is that actually holds the ferrule in place. Plus the Pred. ferrules are an extremely soft plastic that refuses to stay clean. Now I'm talking about someone doing quality work and not the crap some cue repair people try to pass off as quality. I've done this trick hundreds of times to many top players and pros 314 shafts and have had nothing but positive results. After cutting off the original ferrule I then drill out 3/4 of an inch and thread in a maple tenon. This allows me to thread on an Aegis or Grice ferrule and also allows me if desired to have the tenon pass through the entire ferrule so the tip is actually touching wood. The new high tech shafts are trying to have a low end mass that allows for lesser deflection. Thats fine...the tenon I use plus the 1 inch ferrule (drilled with a big 5/16 hole) actually weighs no more than the original parts. The new ferrule is a much stronger material that will stay clean plus its threaded into place...not slipped on plastic. Everyone is very happy with the way I make the 314's and Tigers play. Most all even comment that they even play better. I even have several top players that when they first get a new 314...my shop is their first stop...to get a quality ferrule. Low end mass is nothing really new in shaft technology. Bob Meucci was doing it years ago with his thin wall plastic ferrules. Anyone notice that even the new Meucci ferrules are VERY thin and actually hollow at the very end. Many different ways to skin a cat. I challenge anyone who plays with a 314 or Tiger and has enough talent & knowledge to tell the difference...to hit a few balls with my cue to compare. And I'll gladly cut you a deal when you want it done to your 314 too!!! After all...you've watched pros on TV play perfect with their 314 shaft & my ferrule...they don't have a problem or miss balls due to the ferrule change. Don't be a fool...of course some people think that if they put their "dot" up on their shaft that will make them play better too. LOL!!!!
Click to expand...

If you think that a 5/16 tenon and an Aegis or grice ferrule weighs the same as a predator ferrule then you need to invest in a better scale my friend. The ferrules on a predator shaft actually weigh less than the same volume of maple. Why bother using a predator shaft if your going to illiminate 40% of it's squirt reducing ability?

Dick
 
rhncue said:
If you think that a 5/16 tenon and an Aegis or grice ferrule weighs the same as a predator ferrule then you need to invest in a better scale my friend. The ferrules on a predator shaft actually weigh less than the same volume of maple. Why bother using a predator shaft if your going to illiminate 40% of it's squirt reducing ability?

Dick
Click to expand...

40% is a very precise number. It's not "half" or "about half" or "almost half"... it's 40%. I'd be interested to see how you came up with that figure, or where you found it. And also, as a curiosity, it's 40% of what that is reduced?

Best,

Flex
 
40% of BS!!! The factory ferrule/tip cut straight off a 314 weighs 3 grams. The grice w/tenon weighs 4 grams. No big deal.
rhncue...you are missing the point...it plays the same if not better. Most comment that the 314 actually plays better and has a crisper hit. There is nothing wrong with taking a mass produced piece and with a little quality fine tuning...making it better. I'm sure that if it hurt the shafts performance, someone would of said something by now. But no...I get..."here, do these 314's too"!!!
As far as Grice "getting dirty very easily" as Richard stated...thats simply due to not correctly finishing the ferrule. All linen type ferrules have small holes in the weave. Its not a problem to do the correct steps and then the Grice (or Aegis) will have no holes to trap dirt and will wipe clean very easily. The Grice ferrules on my 314 & Tiger are so polished that any chalk will wipe off with my finger...they stay VERY clean. I'll be glad to post pics if anyone is interested.
Bottom line...seems that my tricked 314 reduces squirt just fine. The balls seem to find the back of the pocket. I could be wrong though...maybe next time I'm watching ESPN one of the pros may miss a ball, stand up and say..."that damn Varney, my ferrule just squirted and I missed a ball".
Whaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry if my comments are not what some want to hear, but I speak the truth. We are talking about world class players here, not local league champions...I believe they can tell what works. Nuff said!
 
Varney Cues said:
40% of BS!!! The factory ferrule/tip cut straight off a 314 weighs 3 grams. The grice w/tenon weighs 4 grams. No big deal.
rhncue...you are missing the point...it plays the same if not better. Most comment that the 314 actually plays better and has a crisper hit. There is nothing wrong with taking a mass produced piece and with a little quality fine tuning...making it better. I'm sure that if it hurt the shafts performance, someone would of said something by now. But no...I get..."here, do these 314's too"!!!
As far as Grice "getting dirty very easily" as Richard stated...thats simply due to not correctly finishing the ferrule. All linen type ferrules have small holes in the weave. Its not a problem to do the correct steps and then the Grice (or Aegis) will have no holes to trap dirt and will wipe clean very easily. The Grice ferrules on my 314 & Tiger are so polished that any chalk will wipe off with my finger...they stay VERY clean. I'll be glad to post pics if anyone is interested.
Bottom line...seems that my tricked 314 reduces squirt just fine. The balls seem to find the back of the pocket. I could be wrong though...maybe next time I'm watching ESPN one of the pros may miss a ball, stand up and say..."that damn Varney, my ferrule just squirted and I missed a ball".
Whaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry if my comments are not what some want to hear, but I speak the truth. We are talking about world class players here, not local league champions...I believe they can tell what works. Nuff said!
Click to expand...

Very interesting comments as well as your profile. Do the players that you change ferrules for normally play with a Predator or did they simply try it, couldn't get use to it, so you plugged it and added a regular ferrule. Just trying to understand your observations a little.
 
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