OB-1 question(s)

pillage6 said:
I wish I did.

There is only a small difference between "slip-on" and "press-fit", about .002"-.010" depending on your tolerances ;)
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A friend of mine works for Predator, he likes to talk about Predator technology.

I guess it is just a plain coincidence that he has the exact same handle on www.Myspace.com as you. His handle is pillage6. He works for Predator, and his name is Neil.

Here is the link to his page: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=21634055

What a coincidence.:)

Richard
 
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Nice pic Corey. After cutting a Tiger ferrule off and seeing the stem...I kind of pictured you where using a custom made piece like that. Now if you could only get Tony to offer a 1 inch ferrule version as an option, you'd have all the bases covered. You can't imagine how many times I hear...."damn, I HATE those short ferrules." I know they play well...but a lot of players are just old school traditionalist.
 
My hat is off to you Richard. I had been trying to get Tiffany Nelson to try my jump/break cue...we play in the same room often. She absolutely would NOT...because she was under contract with Layani. So I took her break cue and fitted it with my stemmed canvas resin tip. She loved it, or so she said. Now right before she leaves for SD...I spot her with the X breaker. Job well done. Of course I'm small time and if a pro wants a new Varney...they have to pay wholesale...no freebies!!! LOL!
 
shinobi said:
Err... pillage6 what is the deal?
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Does it really matter if it is the guy Richard was talking about? I haven't followed the link Richard provided because I honestly didn't think it was all that important.

Lets just say for sh!ts & giggles that it is the guy... what does that change? There are a ton of people on here that are in the industry that post anonymously or not at all because people tend to become ignorant when they find out that someone is in the industry. :rolleyes:

So long as someone is respectful of others and is a positive contributing member of the forum, who cares what their real name is? I use the following example all the time... SJM... some know his real name and who he is. Most do not but yet he is very much respected by the majority on the forum.

So far as I can tell, pillage hasn't been disrespectful to anyone here. They've been a respectful contributing member of the forum. If pillage acted like some of the trolls and came on here hiding behind a screen name in order to offend people and lie about other people as so many trolls on here do, then I would be the 1st one to say off with his head! I haven't noticed that to be the case here....
 
CrownCityCorey said:
As promised, here is a pic of the Tiger "X" Laminated Shaft components (Kudos to Timberly's tech support).
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Hey, that ferrule design looks familiar! http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=6605

I hope you did some R&D on that instead of just......My experience is that that ferrule design will crack the shaft when power shots with spin is used often. And even more so from what you show with that chunky solid top end.

Here, think lever and your fulcrum is where the ferrule and shaft wood meets. That short screw will be stiff enough to crack wood walls when a great enough pressure is applied to the hard tip (current favorite of most players nowa-days) end. Low-deflection technology needs the tip end to lose contact on the cueball before the cueball is pushed off of its intended path. This then imparts a lot of lateral force on the ferrule. Your customer service isn't going to like it.

The ferrule (see link provided) I made looks to have less height, mass and weight than in your photo yet it busted the shaft.

From a cuemaker's point-of-view, it's easier to fix a snapped-off ferrule than a cracked shaft.
 
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bandido said:
Hey, that ferrule design looks familiar! http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=6605

I hope you did some R&D on that instead of just......My experience is that that ferrule design will crack the shaft when power shots with spin is used often. And even more so from what you show with that chunky solid top end.

Here, think lever and your fulcrum is where the ferrule and shaft wood meets. That short screw will be stiff enough to crack wood walls when a great enough pressure is applied to the hard tip (current favorite of most players nowa-days) end. Low-deflection technology needs the tip end to lose contact on the cueball before the cueball is pushed off of its intended path. This then imparts a lot of lateral force on the ferrule. Your customer service isn't going to like it.

The ferrule (see link provided) I made looks to have less height, mass and weight than in your photo yet it busted the shaft.

From a cuemaker's point-of-view, it's easier to fix a snapped-off ferrule than a cracked shaft.
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Our design is 4 plus years old and is patented. All that technical stuff makes my brain hurt. I just know it works.
 
question about the carbon fiber disc

RBC said:
About the carbon fiber disc.
The pad under the tip on the OB-1 is not a conventional vulcanized fiber pad like we are all used to. The pad is actually a carbon fiber disc. The disc is a very important part of the shaft and should not be removed. The specific gravity of the disc is roughly the same as a tip, so it does not affect the performance at all. We noticed no noticable change in the hit either when we added the carbon disc. What the disc does is bridge all the materials together at the tip end of the shaft. I have used one on my break cue for almost a year now and have had no problems. The disc also makes it easier for your cuesmith to replace the tip. He just treats the disc like it is the ferrule.
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How easy would it be to get an extra disc in case the one on the shaft is damaged in some way or in case your cue repair guy takes it off by mistake?
 
Bill,

Currently, I am providing repair people with the carbon fiber discs. I would be more than happy to give anyone who buys a shaft an extra if they need it, but I just don't have the quantities right now to pass out a large number of them.

The carbon discs are very easy to replace, but in reality you shouldn't need to very often. I have found the best way to replace a tip is to trim off the tip, leaving a little of the tip or just the glue. Then you use a razor blade to scrape the pad clean while it is spinning, and glue on the new tip. Although this sounds like it might be difficult to the average Joe, any competent cue repair person should be able to perform this task very easily.

All complete cue shafts come with a card that describes the shaft joint size and style. On the back of the card are care, retipping, and warranty information. Also on the card is our website and phone number so that we can be contacted if there are any questions.


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
RBC said:
Bill,

Currently, I am providing repair people with the carbon fiber discs. I would be more than happy to give anyone who buys a shaft an extra if they need it, but I just don't have the quantities right now to pass out a large number of them.

The carbon discs are very easy to replace, but in reality you shouldn't need to very often. I have found the best way to replace a tip is to trim off the tip, leaving a little of the tip or just the glue. Then you use a razor blade to scrape the pad clean while it is spinning, and glue on the new tip. Although this sounds like it might be difficult to the average Joe, any competent cue repair person should be able to perform this task very easily.

All complete cue shafts come with a card that describes the shaft joint size and style. On the back of the card are care, retipping, and warranty information. Also on the card is our website and phone number so that we can be contacted if there are any questions.


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
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Royce,

Thanks for the information! I just ordered one of your shafts, so I appreciate your description of re-tipping. My cue repair guy (Dick Neighbors of Cincinnati) will probably be putting on a Moori medium for me when the shaft arrives.
 
Timberly said:
Lets just say for sh!ts & giggles that it is the guy... what does that change? There are a ton of people on here that are in the industry that post anonymously or not at all because people tend to become ignorant when they find out that someone is in the industry. :rolleyes:
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Timberly,

I have no problems with anyone posting anonymous, it just came as a surprise since Neil posts openly on other forums. At least it explains some peculiar statements he has made in the past...
 
No one here mentions what the OB-1 shaft has for a taper. I find the 314 good but actually prefer the taper of the Mcdermott I-2 which has a slightly longer taper. Does anyone know how the OB-1 compares to the 314 or other shaft tapers?
 
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Having only one OB-1 to pass judgement on...I found the taper to be more like the Tiger X shaft and not as long a taper as found on a 314.
 
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