OB Classic Question

9Ballr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I recently got an OB Classic and the shaft feels very sticky compared to
solid maple shafts, which is all I've been playing since the 80's.

Is this normal?
Do all LD's feel sticky?
Are the 314's like that too?

It doesn't matter how many times I do a light sanding and burnishing
after a few minutes of shooting it's sticky again.

In the mean time and under the exact same condition and same
treatment the maple shafts feel completely smooth and never get
'gooed' up.
I'm wondering if this is because of all the glue they use to glue
the layers together.

This is my first LD shaft, maybe I should just stop here and leave the
LD's up to the experts.
It shoots nicely but I don't like that sticky feeling, not in the least.
 
Sticky? You mean laminated?

The laminate coat will wear as you use it, but if you're sanding it I'm sure you've already passed that.

I have an OB Classic and I don't think it's sticky at all...and I let my shafts get seasoned and dirty
 
I've got two 314 shafts. One stays smooth, the other constantly feels rough after 10 min. of play. Have sanded it, nothing seems to help. My GUESS is that the one cue just has a poorer grade of wood for the laminations. ??
 
I'm near to New Orleans with high humidity.

My OB Classic & 314 are fine. I have an economical Y-core 4 pcs. pie type shaft that gets sticky.

Best,
Rick
 
Ok, that helps. Guess it's not an LD thing after all.
I should probably just stay with solid maple.

Thanks for your help.
 
Ok, that helps. Guess it's not an LD thing after all.
I should probably just stay with solid maple.

Thanks for your help.

Let's straighten things out, the laminated part is NOT what makes the shaft low deflection. It's what they use at the end and inside the shaft to lower mass.

So you can have a solid maple shaft, that was bored with another material in the middle and a light or hollow ferrule that is low deflection. My two favorite LD shafts are made of solid wood with some tech in the ends. Players HXT and the LD shaft Mike Webb makes. I'm sure there are others, but I have not tried them.
 
Let's straighten things out, the laminated part is NOT what makes the shaft low deflection. It's what they use at the end and inside the shaft to lower mass.

So you can have a solid maple shaft, that was bored with another material in the middle and a light or hollow ferrule that is low deflection. My two favorite LD shafts are made of solid wood with some tech in the ends. Players HXT and the LD shaft Mike Webb makes. I'm sure there are others, but I have not tried them.


Super info. Thanks a lot for clarifying this.
 
Now that that is settled. P.M. with joint info. and I'll make an offer. I might do a trade too.

Does 500 posts get me a door prize (postage paid)?

Sent from my SCH-M828C using Tapatalk 2
 
My standard maple Joss shaft was more sticky then a Predator 341/2, and the Z2 shaft is more sticky than 314/2, but less then Joss. It's not about LD.
 
The predator Z2 shaft is the stickiest shaft of all. Its my current playing shaft and I love it, but it seems to me that its made with inferior wood. Its very light in colour and weight (not just in the front) and it gets blue almost instantly and I use wax and clean my cue and hands religiously. Especially the ferrule seems to be easily stained and harder to clean than all other ferrules i know of. When I play 14.1 I clean my shaft between every inning. (There's usually plenty of time).The raw performance makes it worth it though.

I do not have that problem with my 314. I notice that the 314 shaft is much darker and seems denser than the z2. I have a cue with a high quality maple shaft, and its easier to clean than both the ld shafts. I have started playing with a glove whenever I use any predator shaft, that seems to make it easier to clean them off.
 
i understand the "feel" of the shaft you are describing
i use ob1 shafts and some of them do have that feel
i give my shaft to a cue repair guy who cleans and polishes it and whatever coating he uses the shafts come back smooth as silk
every so often i might have to do it again but usually the smoothness will last until its time to put a new tip on or using Q-wiz puts the smoothness back if the shaft gets alittle grimy
my advice dont give up yet
 
Try waxing it with a good car wax. I do this about once a week. Waxing my wood keeps my shafts smooth and happy!

Larry
 
My buddy gave mine the lathe treatment last night...
Used like 4 flavors of sandpaper, then some sort of sealer, then some wax, then burnished it with leather
until the cue was almost too hot to touch.

I highly recommend it. I feel like it's gonna stay smooth for a while but it was my first time trying it.
So no promises. I have cleaned before with the usual fine grit sandpaper etc. but this feels much better
than a basic cleaning. Worth a try if you can find someone to do it cheap.
 
I had OB Classic and finish was good, not sticky. But to me it did not feel like LD shaft, just really stiff non LD shaft, sold it in a week- just did not like it at all. But loved OB1- was my main shaft for close to a year, no idea why I sold it lol
 
That's the thing. The OB Classic (& the McDermott i2 that I have) feel very much like solid maple & are not whippy at all. They are very solid feeling.

I have a used Predator 314 that has been sanded or turned down some & it has a very whippy feeling.

Different strokes for different folks.

I always thought solid was better than flimsy.

Best,
Rick
 
Wow!

There's a lot going on here! I should have chimed in sooner, but missed it.

Ok, to clear up a few things.

First, to 9ballr. I think there is something on your cue shaft. All our cue shafts get sealed up with an oil based sealer that penetrates into the surface of the cue shaft and allowed to dry. Then, we polish it out and apply waxes and such to give the "slick" feel. It seems to me that either your cue shaft didn't get sealed properly, or has gotten something on it. If you'd like to pm me your information, we can get it back here to get it all fixed back up for you. Let me know.

Ok, now for a little talk about how to keep our cue shafts smooth and clean. First, the shafts are sealed to help keep them clean and smooth. If the sealer gets sanded off, which will eventually happen even if just from wear, then the cue shaft will need to be resealed. There are many types of sealers out there that will work. Wax will work, but will need to be cleaned and reapplied often because it's soft and actually attracts dirt. We recommend you take it to a competent cuesmith and just have them clean and seal it. There are even some helpful tips on our website, www.obcues.com.

One really good tip to keep any shaft clean is this. When you play, wash your hands often, and with hot water. If your cue shaft is sticky, it's usually the build up of oils on your hands. Washing them will strip the clammy oils off your skin and the cue shaft will be magically slick again. Also, when you dry your hands, take the slightly damp towel that you dried your hands will and wipe the cue shaft down with it. Just take one swipe from the joint to the tip, and throw away the towel. Then rub it down with a clean dry paper towel. This little trick, especially if done at the end of your night of play, will help keep your cue shaft clean and smooth. You'd be surprised at how much will stick to your cue shaft!


Ok, now about shaft construction and low cue ball squirt, (LD).
It is true that the laminations don't have much direct impact on cue ball squirt. Tip end Mass, or the lack of really, is the primary factor in cue ball squirt or deflection. The reasons we laminate our cue shafts are many. Lamination gives a much more consistent cue shaft because maple can vary tremendously from piece to piece. Both in strength and in weight. Also, we can engineer strength in the areas needed to further reduce that Tip End Mass that makes a cue shaft LD in the first place.

For those that haven't seen how an OB shaft goes together, here's a link to our graphic video on our website:
http://www.obcues.com/pages/Video.html
As you can see, a lot of work goes into just making the shaft blank. Much more than selecting and turning down one piece of maple. If we could get the same thing with solid maple, we certainly wouldn't do all the work we do now.

I hope that helps!

Let me know 9ballr. We can get you fixed up!
 
Royce, excellent info. Thanks a lot for your post.
I may pick you up on that offer. I live in Houston TX so this should be easy.
Also I'm the guy Jerry O called you about, it was a week ago, when he ordered
one of your shafts for my new cue by him.
 
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