OK, all BS aside, which ferrule is the triple nuts?

undertaker said:
what did you guys think about ivorine 4. i have heard it is the strongest ferulle material on the market. how did you rate it on deflection. less or much?
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Too hard. Too heavy.

Great for breaking or jumping.
 
what about titan. i got some when it first came out a few years back and it was ok. hard and clean

never had any issues with gluing either
 
dave sutton said:
what about titan. i got some when it first came out a few years back and it was ok. hard and clean

never had any issues with gluing either
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Titan is hard?
 
qbilder said:
Yes, pretty much. My goal is for the ferrule to add stability to the tip end of the shaft without altering the natural dynamics of the playability. This is done by using a lightweight material that is strong enough to be cut very thin with confidence it won't be damaged during impact. Very high quality LBM is so far the only stuff that has proven sufficient. Old school fiber ferrules work as well, but are not as available, and don't look as nice. I tried numerous other materials but most cracked after play & some just didn't feel natural. As in natural I mean as close to no ferrule as possible. I really liked Titan ferrules becasuse they were white, clean & felt just like no ferrule, but they cracked too easily.

The no ferrule is in my opinion the best feeling & playing way to build a shaft. However, it's something that's been tried in the past & for some reason ferrules still exist. I don't fully trust the longevity of ferruless shafts just yet, so i'm still using them. I'm just doing it as close to no ferrule as I possibly can without sacrifing durability.
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This thread is great!

So, I have a question:
Are you building your non-capped threaded ferrules with or without a pilot? Like the traditional off-the-shelf, thick-walled stainless steel joints.

The pilot would give you a slightly thicker wall at the front of the ferrule, say 1/8" long or so for added strength wouldn't it?

Anyone else posting here ever tried this? If so, what length and diameter?

I think I read a quote somewhere's by R.B. that in his opinion, LBM hit the closest to genuine elephant ivory- which hits closest to wood. (ie- no ferrule)
-Chris
 
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Big C said:
I need your unbiased, expert opinions on which ferrule will "play" the best. I know there are those that swear by ivory as the end-all, be-all. Then there is the old micarta following that says there is nothing better, before or since they stopped making any more of it. I have a 2006 Schon STL3 with a stock shaft. The ferrule is not ivory, so I am guessing that it is Ivorine III,IV. I remember playing with a Schon about 20 years ago that just blew me away. It just felt so solid and it could really juice the ball. Anyone ever seen that draw shot that Corey made? You know the one where Billy creamed his tweenkie over? I could pull that shot off with that cue. I don't know if it had the old micarta ferrule, but I'm guessing that it did. Back to my current cue. I like the hit/sound and feel, but it deflects too much when using more than one tip of side-spin. Please help me decide.

Thanks
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No ferrule at al would be best. I like a very thin walled sleeved on ferrule drilled all the way through with the tip glued, for the most part, on the end grain of the shaft.
 
i think the new yellow micarta is the nuts,next best is good,dense LBM,then ivory,but cut short to keep deflection low.i like them all uncapped even ivory.
 
Big C said:
I need your unbiased, expert opinions on which ferrule will "play" the best. I know there are those that swear by ivory as the end-all, be-all. Then there is the old micarta following that says there is nothing better, before or since they stopped making any more of it. I have a 2006 Schon STL3 with a stock shaft. The ferrule is not ivory, so I am guessing that it is Ivorine III,IV. I remember playing with a Schon about 20 years ago that just blew me away. It just felt so solid and it could really juice the ball. Anyone ever seen that draw shot that Corey made? You know the one where Billy creamed his tweenkie over? I could pull that shot off with that cue. I don't know if it had the old micarta ferrule, but I'm guessing that it did. Back to my current cue. I like the hit/sound and feel, but it deflects too much when using more than one tip of side-spin. Please help me decide.

Thanks
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Well,... I know Ivory is just Double Nuts.
 
I still don't understand why more people are not going ferrulless, other than for traditions sake. If the goal for the feel of a shaft is "like there is no ferrule", why not eliminate the ferrule? Why add a heavy hunk of bone or plastic on the end when the ideal for play is not to have any additional weight up there? Ferrules were a necessary item before the introduction of the leather tip, when the bare wood cracked on impact with the ivory balls. The tip now offers all the protection thats needed IMO. Has anybody seen a ferruless shaft crack or mushroom? I have not, and I've seen a few (black boar).

the only time i think a ferrule may be necessary is with a pie-segmented shaft in order to help keep the laminations from separating, but i'm not really sure.
 
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well hell

masonh said:
i think the new yellow micarta is the nuts,next best is good,dense LBM,then ivory,but cut short to keep deflection low.i like them all uncapped even ivory.
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whatever you did to mine, works. Is it uncapped?
 
This is from the tiger site, and i had 2 of these installed, and i really like them.


Tiger - "SABER T"? ferrules, the only ferrules that will actually challenge ivory in all these categories: Price, machining, sanding, playability, consistency, durabiltiy & ability to stay clean.

0%
Details
SKU STF-F
Weight 0.07 lbs
Price: $9.95
 
I played with ferruleless shaft once and thought it played terrible. Bad enough that I will prob never try of again.

Saber t and ivory aren't even close. Maybe price but 10$ each is crazy. They can have it. To even make that statement is crazy

I can't wait to get my 6500$ szamboti with saber T ferrules. Lololol

And I love tiger products btw
 
I did some testing on some fairly good pool players this weekend.
I had 2 different types of cues.
1 is a carbon fiber shaft with very low deflection,
2 is a maple shaft cue that I think would be average deflection.

People used both cues and choose different tips as being the tip that played best for them.
My conclusion is it is not just the tip or just the ferrule, but the combination that feels good to you. Now a setup that works really good one day, may not be the same good setup another day with another table.

Neil
 
Best ferrule design

How about a ferrule like the design by Canadan Cue.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=89376

You have a sleeved type ferrule. (better tranfer of the hit)
You have some threads. (better construction)
You have a shank at the base. (center the ferrule)
You use New Yellow Micarta - Med/soft hit-light material-low deflection properties



This could be the dead nuts ferrule for some?


Where do you get the New Yellow Micarta ferrule Material?

later,
sax
 
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Anyone ever used brass ferrule? Similar to the one used on older snooker cue? Anyone know where to get brass ferrule for pool cue? I have a client that wanted me to make a shaft for him with brass ferrule. He like that way it play with his snooker cue and now want it on his pool cue shaft.

Regards,
Duc.
 
Cuemaster98 said:
Anyone ever used brass ferrule? Similar to the one used on older snooker cue? Anyone know where to get brass ferrule for pool cue? I have a client that wanted me to make a shaft for him with brass ferrule. He like that way it play with his snooker cue and now want it on his pool cue shaft.

Regards,
Duc.
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Duc, you should be able to make whatever you want on your lathe. If you have any problem let me know and I will make you one.
 
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