Ok, what do you think of this?

Glenn Deneweth

Glenn Deneweth

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Grizzle lathe, 36". If I use a bore head it really takes up a lot real estate. What I was thinking, is, if I took a drill chuck that fits the Tailstock, cut off the chuck, and mounted a live center just off center to give me the taper I need. Think that would work? Anyone willing to make me one?

Glenn
 
I think that offsetting your tailstock would work just fine... why would you want to try to build an odd-ball center to do it?
 
cheese_ball said:
I think that offsetting your tailstock would work just fine... why would you want to try to build an odd-ball center to do it?
Click to expand...

Simple, because I only have 1 lathe and it takes too long to set the tailstock back. This option would give me more room between centers and I wouldn't have to reset the tailstock. I think it's a Winner Winner Chicken Dinner...I just don't have the means to make it.

Glenn
 
Or get another tailstock and offsetit and use an MT2 dead center ( was the center hole of the wood ).
 
Other options

I have a convenient way to return to zero with my tailstock. I removed the socket set screw from the back of the tailstock and installed a bolt with the nose trimmed to length so that when I loosen the front tailstock screw, then tighten the rear bolt until it bottoms against the body of the tailstock. I have returned to zero! The only way I can do better is using my coax indicator every time, which takes too long.
I can use a dial indicator to get the desired offset by loosening that custom rear bolt , then tightening the front screw until I get the offset I need. Now in either case I snug the opposing screw/bolt to not allow the tailstock to drift from my settings. Again to return to zero it is as easy as loosening the front screw and tightening the rear bolt! Done!
 
I have used a 36" machine lathe for years, and I use a small boring head mounted on a MT3 shank. I took a small cheap live center and machined it down to go into the holes that would normally hold the boring bar. To get around the length issue, I would remove the chuck and use a dead center in the headstock.

Royce
 
If I move my tailstock off center it takes me about a minute or less to line it back up. I measured the diameter of the rotating nose of my live center and bought a precision dowel pin the same diameter. I just chuck up the pin...
put an indicator on it......zero in and move the carriage with the indicator on it down to the tailstock........set the tailstock to zero.......done.
It gets pretty darn close for all the work I'm doing with the tailstock.
I never move the tailstock of my tapering lathe without putting an indicator on it and just write down how far the last move I made was everytime.
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
I have a Grizzle lathe, 36". If I use a bore head it really takes up a lot real estate. What I was thinking, is, if I took a drill chuck that fits the Tailstock, cut off the chuck, and mounted a live center just off center to give me the taper I need. Think that would work? Anyone willing to make me one?

Glenn
Click to expand...

Dont decapitate your drill chuck...

You can buy an mt drill chuck arbor for about 3 bucks<China version>
Mill a slot parrallel to your late bed to hold a piece of bar stock
that has the center mounted in it, or even just a 60 degree
point - no reason you cant live with a dead center

you will need to mark top-dead-center on the contraption
to get the height right. cross drill the arbor for a set screw or two
for holding the bar snugly

if you want the ability to vary the offset, just engrave(scratch) a register
mark for your standard taper and make the bar slidey

This is all perfectly clear to me, but prolly sounds pretty babley
So, don't be shy to ask questions, should you care to.

Dale Pierce
 
Yep, don't know if they make them for Your tailstock taper, but I've seen off centers in different sizes & types, some of them are even ajustable.
One nice thing about the taig tailstocks are they are alot cheaper to just buy an extra one. I have 2 tailstocks now, and about to buy another that will be offset for nothing but point cutting. Same reasoning as You, once It's locked in I don't have to mess with It again. I hate having to break setups down once I get them tuned in, only to have to dial them in again later, so It could make things easier in that respect. I set the tailstock back to zero all the time though, and not a big deal to line It back up to the headstock, as 2 60 degree centers are enough for that, but It still seems like an advantage to have more then one that can stay dialed in for what ever you may need out of It.:)

Greg
 
pdcue said:
You can buy an mt drill chuck arbor for about 3 bucks<China version>
Mill a slot parrallel to your late bed to hold a piece of bar stock
that has the center mounted in it, or even just a 60 degree
point - no reason you cant live with a dead center

<edit by Dave>

This is all perfectly clear to me, but prolly sounds pretty babley
So, don't be shy to ask questions, should you care to.
Click to expand...

This would work using an MT2 arbour with a rough end, but aren't MT2-JTwhatever arbour usually hardened and ground ? I've ruined enough bits and pieces trying to machine hardened steel to know better ... OK, so what if I thought a cobalt drill would open up the holes in my 1-2-3 blocks the other day .... that brand new (now ruined) drill only cost me a few dollars and the 1-2-3 block shows no hint of abuse. :o

Dave
 
DaveK said:
This would work using an MT2 arbour with a rough end, but aren't MT2-JTwhatever arbour usually hardened and ground ? I've ruined enough bits and pieces trying to machine hardened steel to know better ... OK, so what if I thought a cobalt drill would open up the holes in my 1-2-3 blocks the other day .... that brand new (now ruined) drill only cost me a few dollars and the 1-2-3 block shows no hint of abuse. :o

Dave
Click to expand...

Good point Dave, that is why I said the China version

J&L sells(sold?) these cheap ones that are easy to machine
the JT front - I used one to make a revolving MT2 Center
for my wood lathe. Drilled a 1/2 in hole into the end like butter
with only a HSS drill bit

Another one - turned a 60 deg point out of the JT tang - might
have used carbide cutter on that one.

Dale
 
pdcue said:
Good point Dave, that is why I said the China version
Click to expand...

They must be shipping me the good stuff. Either that or the things get harder when they're frozen. :o

Dave
 
tail stock

Glenn Deneweth said:
Simple, because I only have 1 lathe and it takes too long to set the tailstock back. This option would give me more room between centers and I wouldn't have to reset the tailstock. I think it's a Winner Winner Chicken Dinner...I just don't have the means to make it.

Glenn
Click to expand...
Why not but an extra tail stock. I have three for my Grizzly. Butterflycues
 
DaveK said:
They must be shipping me the good stuff. Either that or the things get harder when they're frozen. :o

Dave
Click to expand...

Simple solution, just specify you need shipment
during the 10 -12 days in July when the temp stays above freezing.

You did kick a few more of the brain cells into action.
Upon further reflection, it woud probably be more practical
to fashion this Rube Goldberg trophy winner on a simple
round shank of however soft a metal one prefers
and mount in it in an MT End Mill holder

Dale Pierce
 
Glenn Deneweth said:
I have a Grizzle lathe, 36". If I use a bore head it really takes up a lot real estate. What I was thinking, is, if I took a drill chuck that fits the Tailstock, cut off the chuck, and mounted a live center just off center to give me the taper I need. Think that would work? Anyone willing to make me one?

Glenn
Click to expand...
Check in the yellow pages for machine shops and go to the best one and they can make you another...good luck
 
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