One Pocket Dramedy

I thought that's what Lou meant - the third rail being the foot rail under the 7. I'd try to miss the 7, take the scratch and stay short of the pocket.


I'd never shoot it jacked up. I'm stupid but not suicidal.

pj
chgo

Can you tell me the advantage of the 3 rail kick (and possible foul) rather than thinning the 5 and bringing the cueball under the 7?
 
You gotta get your steak horse some Jack Black before you saddle up for this shot....here goes, once saw McCready do somethin similar to this, "come firm, high right (about 1:30 or 2 o'clock) of the rail with the rock, drivin the 8 into the back edge of the 10, on line to pocket it of the 7, sendin the rock to the opposite side rail on line with, but slightly above, the 11, 8 heads toward the 11 and 7 heads on a line towards the 3, pocket the 10, it's gonna at least get you outta the break, so your emphasis has to be on doin just that. Hit this right, break's headin the other way along with the momentum!
Miss it---------:rolleyes:
Wouldn't the CB need a crossing guard to get through all that traffic? I think you spelled "steak" horse right...

I like your style, kid; you're even nuttier than me.

pj
chgo
 
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Patrick, your first response going off the edge of the five and under the ten is the best one here, imo. A lot can go right and little can go wrong with this shot. It's all about making a thin hit on the five and having the right speed on the cue ball. A typical One Pocket shot in other words! :grin:
 
This might be a fairly aggressive shot. If you pull it off, you move a ball to your hole and lock the cueball up.

Bank the 14 (or whatever it is) to your end, follow the cueball into the pack.

CueTable Help

 
Can you tell me the advantage of the 3 rail kick (and possible foul) rather than thinning the 5 and bringing the cueball under the 7?
Actually, I didn't mean to say I preferred the long kick, just that it was worth considering (I changed my post above to make that more clear). My shot would be off the 5 behind the 10/7.

pj
chgo
 
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Actually, I didn't mean to say I preferred the long kick, just that it was worth considering (I changed my post above to make that more clear). My shot would be off the 5 behind the 7.

pj
chgo

Ok, that makes more sense to me. Seems like the right move from here.
 
"Yup!"

Wouldn't the CB need a crossing guard to get through all that traffic? I think you spelled "steak" horse right...

I like your style, kid; you're even nuttier than me.

pj
chgo
Definitely, on both counts! But really, the first shot off the 5, under the 10 is the traditional, correct shot, if you can get whitey to the side rail behind the 7, that's going to get you a lotta time to turn things around.
But really, wouldn't you rather see the other type of offensive shot a little more often? I mean, isn't that why you watch creative guy's like Martinez, McCready, and Joyner!
Oh------,
it's the 7 you gotta watch-out for with the kiss, looks like it'll just pass on the topside of whitey as he's movin through, if they do mate, your likely to find the rock headin for the 3 in the stack, if you made the 10, that's O.K., too! So that little peck on the cheek from the 7 ain't all bad either. Anyway, it all depends on the speed of the cloth! I figure it's 860, still has good color, so you can hit this with medium speed and get all three balls movin along. The speed to pocket the 10 off the 7 will probably dictate the speed for the whole shot to work-out.
And 1 other thing, whitey's layin natural for follow off the rail, and with 70% of the right side of the cue-ball exposed on the rail, the high right sits natural for a right handed player, the 8 looks pretty straight for the edge of the 10 on the combo, so it's not as much of a "harrier" as it appears on first sight!
 
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This might be a fairly aggressive shot. If you pull it off, you move a ball to your hole and lock the cueball up.

Bank the 14 (or whatever it is) to your end, follow the cueball into the pack.

CueTable Help


With the cue ball on the rail this shot will get you broke far more often than it will work. :wink:
 
Why not just drive the 8 into the rail with enough follow on the CB to freeze it on the end rail?

The 8 probably hits the 7 but it does not look like either would end up in a makeable position.
 
Option #1. Take Foul and game on.

CueTable Help



Option#2 Leave them here and hope he shots 1 or 7. If he shots 7 he probably only gets one and your out of trouble because 15 goes towards yours. He misses and god is good.

CueTable Help



Option #3 Passive but may be effective against an aggressive player.

CueTable Help



Nick
 
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Option #1. Take Foul and game on.

CueTable Help



Option#2 Leave them here and hope he shots 1 or 7. If he shots 7 he probably only gets one and your out of trouble because 15 goes towards yours. He misses and god is good.

CueTable Help



Option #3 Passive but may be effective against an aggressive player.

CueTable Help



Nick

I have a lot to learn about 1p, but I don't understand why you would give up a ball here. Thinning the 5 ball parking the cueball in the same place under the 7 is a simple shot, you don't lose a ball, the 5 does not move any closer or further from your hole and they are in the same place as you described but without the foul.

And if you do give up a ball, why leave them any chance at a shot? Why not roll up and freeze on the 10 & 6? Then they are at least trapped, right?

Sorry for the questions, I'm very interested in learning and these shots do not make sense to me.
 
I have a lot to learn about 1p, but I don't understand why you would give up a ball here. Thinning the 5 ball parking the cueball in the same place under the 7 is a simple shot, you don't lose a ball, the 5 does not move any closer or further from your hole and they are in the same place as you described but without the foul.

And if you do give up a ball, why leave them any chance at a shot? Why not roll up and freeze on the 10 & 6? Then they are at least trapped, right?

Sorry for the questions, I'm very interested in learning and these shots do not make sense to me.

I would do this under TWO CONDITIONS.
1. I'm frozen to rail (Check)
2. I can't get to the required angle to thin 5 safely (can't see past 8).

Nick
 
Patrick;

One other option may be to bank the 5 off the end rail toward about the 2nd diamond on the other long rail, hitting it mostly full with a little topspin, CB will hit end rail then side and behind 7. Takes a little feel, but its not a tough shot.

You can also just roll off and behind the 5 softly, blocking the bank and making the cut tough and costly.
 
I have a lot to learn about 1p, but I don't understand why you would give up a ball here. Thinning the 5 ball parking the cueball in the same place under the 7 is a simple shot, you don't lose a ball, the 5 does not move any closer or further from your hole and they are in the same place as you described but without the foul.

And if you do give up a ball, why leave them any chance at a shot? Why not roll up and freeze on the 10 & 6? Then they are at least trapped, right?

Sorry for the questions, I'm very interested in learning and these shots do not make sense to me.
shot 1. The problem with thinning off the 5 is the cueball is on the rail and you have to hit it pretty thin at slow speed and if you miss fat you can sell out and it looks like you can't shoot to miss it or you hit the 8 ball which is disaster.
shot 2. if you put the cueball there good players will kick 2 rails and thin the 12 over to their side and maybe bump the 5 15 or 7 in, or get them funny so they are hard to move.
shot 3. I would shoot the 12 thin and take the cueball back up table to just above the side pocket so you can't bank and can't kick the 7 out .
shot 4 rolling up against the stack leaves your opponent kicking the 12 to his side again probably leaving you on the bottom rail, again the 7 or 15 could go and be costly , plus you just took any chance at offense away from yourself unless he hits it bad.
 
Why not just drive the 8 into the rail with enough follow on the CB to freeze it on the end rail?

The 8 probably hits the 7 but it does not look like either would end up in a makeable position.
The reason I wouldn't try it is that it has to be hit perfectly to work. A hair left or right and you sell out. Other shots leave a little more room for error.

pj
chgo
 
QUOTE [Nick B]
Option #1. Take Foul and game on.
You have the 2 a couple of balls past the head spot towards the far long rail in your diagram, but it looks to be directly above the spot in the photos. My shot works with the balls as they lay in the photo (set it up last night and it worked well) , but would never be considered as you have it laid out.
 
I thought that's what Lou meant - the third rail being the foot rail under the 7. I'd try to miss the 7, take the scratch and stay short of the pocket.


I'd never shoot it jacked up. I'm stupid but not suicidal.

pj
chgo


I meant the traditional three rails, maybe catching a fourth.

Lou Figueroa
 
The cue table diagrams are off a little it seems. In the actual photos the 7 is a virtual hanger. No way I'm lagging up table. I've been accused of being mad at my money before, but if I'm left with the position diagramed in option 2, then I'm shooting the 1 and the 7. The 1 on the side rail is not frozen so if you leave me on the rail it will allow me to shoot it and play shape on the 7 in a place that means I don't have to move the 15. Atleast in my opinion, you just offered me a chance to make a bunch of balls. If you leave me that, then I'm going to risk the sell out because if I get shape good on the 7 I'm going to run most if not all of my balls.

But I'm a donkey so I would prob jar the 1 and lose my dough. Its happened before.
 
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3 rails is good if the player really knows the table. Otherwise it might be easier to kick uptable off the head rail, one or two rails behind the 7. The bank would be viable if the CB weren't froze to the rail.

Doc


Doc, I don't know about you, but most dyed-in-the-wool 1pocket players have a few test shots they'll shoot before a match on a strange table. I have three:

The pocket to pocket up and down kick (for obvious reasons).

The two rail kick from the first diamond on the short rail on my side to the first diamond on the short rail to my opponent's side (to escape a death trap).

And the three rail kick from the second diamond on the long rail on my side to the first diamond on the long rail on my opponent's side to escape a break not to dissimilar from the one Pat has presented. So for me, the three railer is a cinch. I think there's too much potential downside if you don't hit the shots behind the stack *perfect.* Better to shoot the three railer and risk a foul.

Lou Figueroa
 
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