One Pocket Scenario

Yes you can. Leave me up table and I probably get a free bank to win. I would only need one. Unless you jaw a ball it's probably free. My version does not allow for two railing 6 (because of 2) and 2 is safe. Game on.

It looks passive but it's not. What would you do to me from my position?

Dude! You can't just go out there and punt on first down!
:wink:
 
Yes you can. Leave me up table and I probably get a free bank to win. I would only need one. Unless you jaw a ball it's probably free. My version does not allow for two railing 6 (because of 2) and 2 is safe. Game on.

It looks passive but it's not. What would you do to me from my position?

Shoot the 2 or the 6!

The 2 will go 1 or 2 rails, the 6, 2 rails, 1 rail or rail first. I think you can swing any one of those hard enough to bring it back uptable if you miss and they're free shots.

IMO, your bunt leaves no threat, hoping only for opponent to leave you better than you were.
 
...IMO, your bunt leaves no threat, hoping only for opponent to leave you better than you were.

Eactly. I don't figure I'm even 10:1 to get out from taking a tough 2 or 3 railer and then make the trailer to win. Two railing either from where I left you is no gimmie
 
I'd be inclined to shoot the 2B up & down & leave the CB around the upper-left corner pocket...but that 6B is giving me heartburn. He only needs ONE & if you don't get the 2B close...he can have a FREE BANK at the win.

CueTable Help



This is the ticket. You just have to be sure to miss the six ball with the two. You don't want them to kiss. Better to bank the two straight up and down, and away from the six. Distance and the rail are your friends here.
 
I like guys who shoot shots like this. I may send a car for you! :thumbup:

Shot this shot enough times and seen enough bonafied champs shoot this shot for the win to know if you bank well, it's a winner.

Lets not forget, that you need BOTH balls.

You can send that 2 ball up and down all day long if you need one, but if the 2 ends up on the bottom rail, you can sell out a free cross corner on the 6 (look at mosconiacs picture)
If the 2 settles on the lower side rail and isn't frozen, you sell out the cross corner and if the 2 lands leaving you straight in on it where the 2 is withing 1-1.5 ft of the hole, you can just bank it to the bottom rail and leave the cueball at the same height of the table as the 6.

If you need two, pussyfooting around might work against a chump who WILL make mistakes, but it's not going to work against someone who puts you in a bind on basically every shot.
If you've shot the shot enough times, the double kiss doesn't even exist and now your opponent is the one who has to do something without selling out.
 
I like guys who shoot shots like this. I may send a car for you! :thumbup:

I'm with you, that's why I believe shooting the two into the first diamond on the short rail, bring it back with high left on the CB plays well speedwise, avoids contact with the 6 ball, and at worst leaves the two near your pocket with the CB up table and you opponent shooting long distance if the 2 doesn't turn well into your pocket.
 
Shot this shot enough times and seen enough bonafied champs shoot this shot for the win to know if you bank well, it's a winner.

Lets not forget, that you need BOTH balls.

You can send that 2 ball up and down all day long if you need one, but if the 2 ends up on the bottom rail, you can sell out a free cross corner on the 6 (look at mosconiacs picture)
If the 2 settles on the lower side rail and isn't frozen, you sell out the cross corner and if the 2 lands leaving you straight in on it where the 2 is withing 1-1.5 ft of the hole, you can just bank it to the bottom rail and leave the cueball at the same height of the table as the 6.

If you need two, pussyfooting around might work against a chump who WILL make mistakes, but it's not going to work against someone who puts you in a bind on basically every shot.
If you've shot the shot enough times, the double kiss doesn't even exist and now your opponent is the one who has to do something without selling out.

Needing two with your opponent in the one hole is very common in One Pocket. You CAN win from there if you're careful! And don't give up by shooting at a flyer. Bottom line, you probably play a lot better than me if you shoot at shots like this successfully. :wink:
 
Needing two with your opponent in the one hole is very common in One Pocket. You CAN win from there if you're careful! And don't give up by shooting at a flyer. Bottom line, you probably play a lot better than me if you shoot at shots like this successfully. :wink:

It's not a flyer.
It forces the issue.

#1 problem with this shot is that the player will have terrible speed judgment because they are so excited after bunting for 10 innings to actually have a legitimate chance to win, that they crush it, so that it doesn't go 3 rails and hangs out near the hole, but so that it goes 4 rails or more, and pops out near the spot area and sells the farm because the cueball also went to far to the other side of the table, giving them an easier cut.

That is an obvious risk, but if you hit it good, you are in great shape.
If you hit it proper speed, you've got a chance to make it and run out, and you can hook him with the blocker if you miss.

Seriously, go to the pool hall and set it up.
See what type of results you get.

Obviously, all sorts of OTHER factors come into play in real life.
If you are stuck 10 games, or if the guy you are playing is stuck 10 games, in those instances, SOMEONE is looking to sell the farm, so why NOT wait. I can totally understand that.

But if all things were equal?
Sometimes you've just got to go.
 
This is the ticket. You just have to be sure to miss the six ball with the two. You don't want them to kiss. Better to bank the two straight up and down, and away from the six. Distance and the rail are your friends here.

I think this is probably the safest method.

CueTable Help

 
I think this is probably the safest method.

CueTable Help


If you manage to get the 2 ball on that first diamond, it can leave them with an easy or semi easy kick on the 6 crosscorner where you can stick the cueball there or a bank on the 6 towards the hole favoring the bottom rail. (cueball goes back and forth on the bank and ends up on the same side where the 6 was)

IF you hit it a little bad and didn't manage to get the 2 to the bottom rail, but it is still near that diamond or mostly in between diamonds but off the rail, one can kick or bank the 6 to the bottom rail near the hole and keep whitey on the side rail where the 6 is, and then you are in a trap.
If you knock the 6 away, you potentially sell out the cross corner on the 2.
 
It's not a flyer.
It forces the issue.

#1 problem with this shot is that the player will have terrible speed judgment because they are so excited after bunting for 10 innings to actually have a legitimate chance to win, that they crush it, so that it doesn't go 3 rails and hangs out near the hole, but so that it goes 4 rails or more, and pops out near the spot area and sells the farm because the cueball also went to far to the other side of the table, giving them an easier cut.

That is an obvious risk, but if you hit it good, you are in great shape.
If you hit it proper speed, you've got a chance to make it and run out, and you can hook him with the blocker if you miss.

Seriously, go to the pool hall and set it up.
See what type of results you get.

Obviously, all sorts of OTHER factors come into play in real life.
If you are stuck 10 games, or if the guy you are playing is stuck 10 games, in those instances, SOMEONE is looking to sell the farm, so why NOT wait. I can totally understand that.

But if all things were equal?
Sometimes you've just got to go.

What he said!!!
 
Three and see

I like the 3-railer like SS says.
You don't have to hit it all that good to have the other guy playing
total defense.

To the guys that bunt...it's not a winning shot...some safes are traps...
...these kind are just stopping your opponent for ONE shot.....
...I call them..'Don't take my watch now,take it later'
 
Wow, this really illustrates one of the things I love about one pocket. There are only two balls on the table, yet you can find nearly as many shots as you would on a "how to get out of this break" scenario. The end game always seems to give me trouble, so I will post more scenarios as I encounter them.

Aaron
 
Totally free shot from there...you MUST get the CB to the end rail (so they can't stun the CB) and keep the 2B near the pocket.

CueTable Help

 
I like the 3-railer like SS says.
You don't have to hit it all that good to have the other guy playing
total defense.

To the guys that bunt...it's not a winning shot...some safes are traps...
...these kind are just stopping your opponent for ONE shot.....
...I call them..'Don't take my watch now,take it later'

Yeah, you'll like it right up until the double kiss and you sell out. ;)
 
I'm not a one pocket player but my first thought is to hit the 2 and float the cueball up and try to freeze it to the 6 , or leave it between the 6 and the side rail.

The incoming player would probably not be able to hit the 2, and if you get close to the 6 they wouldn't be able to do much of anything.
 
Yeah, you'll like it right up until the double kiss and you sell out. ;)

Played a little 3-cushion.
I know from traffic....depending on the conditions...sometimes you
draw...sometimes you stun to miss the kiss.

And don't be sending me no stinkin' car....send a Brinks truck.

Don't want to be carrying all that $$$ out by myself....
..unlike what Floyd says...cash IS heavy....:grin:
 
Yeah, you'll like it right up until the double kiss and you sell out. ;)

Obviously, you come from the old school of one pocket where you can't shoot it unless it's totally free.:)

I believe Efren burnt that school to the ground.

I'm sure that it might work if you are playing some old timers who want to bunt balls all night long, but that will lose pretty quick when you come up against an aggressive and precise shooter, that puts you to the decision and sticks you in a one pocket zugzwang(chess term), and then you will be going backwards because you have to take a scratch.
 
I'm not a one pocket player but my first thought is to hit the 2 and float the cueball up and try to freeze it to the 6 , or leave it between the 6 and the side rail.

The incoming player would probably not be able to hit the 2, and if you get close to the 6 they wouldn't be able to do much of anything.

Only problem is, that if you don't squeeze him right up against the 6, and the 2 ball isn't in the path, you might just sell out a bank on the 6 to their hole.

If the 2 ball is in the line of the path of the 6, and they can't bank the 6 as a result, then you are good, but it still has it's risks.

It the 6 doesn't bank, you will/could end up with a couple of close up bunts of the cueball into the 6/side rail, until someone wants to shoot away.
 
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