One-Pocket Situation

jcrack_corn said:
bank the one ball back to your side hitting the cueball with low right to stick it back near his pocket...thats one of the few no chance of sellout shots I think....hitting the 5 is too dangerous, and it is hard to tell if you could hit the 8 hard with low left to bring the cuball by his pocket...

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this is what i would do and get the same result but id use the 8 for my position instead of the 1 moving the 8 back to my pocket.
 
As most have suggested the shot is to go 4 rails...off which ball is contested, but I like going off the 8 since that is more of a threat to me than the 1 is. Also, its near a 1/2 ball hit so the resulting CB/OB paths are VERY predictable. My goal would be to not allow my opponent a look at my 2 ball. He can't go for the bank on the 5 because the 8 wil be near my hole...unless I pocket the 8 on the 4-railer and run out making the 7-2 combo!

http://CueTable.com/P/?@2AaYT4BSbg2...fl1kbof3kbPi3kLAk3kJdX4qYvgA&ZZ1tfjP00/00&ZZ@

For those that say the above is a "$5" shot, do I understand the "$10,000" correctly? Is this it? You would roll that CB right at the pcoket & open the door for a scratch?!?!!?

http://CueTable.com/P/?@2AaYT4BSbg2...lE2PLEA2kLEA4kbeN3kQug4qYvgA&ZZ1tfjP00/00&ZZ@
 
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I don't play much one pocket but could you carom off the 5 with some outside english to straighten the angle off the rail and try to lock them up?

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oncepkt said:
I'd shoot the cb at the 5th diamond near my pocket with left eng, hard enough to hit the second rail and park the cb behind the 6 and 7. I wouldn't care if I took a scratch if I didn't make contact with the 6 or 7.
I like the double cross-corner lag too, although reverse english off the first rail is probably not necessary. This is the only selection that allows for snuggling up behind the 7-ball. The four rail shots off the 1 or 8 are fine in terms of getting out of trouble along with saving a scratch; but putting the CB behind the 7-ball puts the opponent in deep trouble.:cool:

Doc
 
Aaron_S said:
I haven't seen one of these for a while, so I thought I'd throw one out. Score is 4 balls apiece in an evenly-contested match, and you're playing for the title to your CLK63 AMG, which you happen to be quite fond of, btw. You have the left pocket.

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After looking at your responses, you can all get played. If you are playing for fun or $10/20 a game, most of the shots are viable but have some risk. If this is a big game, you take a scratch and two rail the cue ball down to your opponents pocket. It costs you a ball and you KNOW you are not making a bad situation worse. John Henderson
 
The way I see it, the *risky to me* lag behind the 6/7 cluster is too passive (I bought into the Cardone doctrine of aggressive defense). You've done nothing to remove the 1/8/5 threat and you can accomplish the same end result (parking him behind the 6/7) with the 4-railer. Further, I've moved a ball from my opponents side of the table to mine...and made it a real threat.
 
Just a question... How far do you think that 8 or 1 is going to move if you hit it thin enough to get back behind the 6 and 7? I think the 5 will be moved into a good spot to keep anyone from one rail banking the 1,8 or 5.

Which shot do you think it easier? If you come off the wrong side of the 9 ball the game is over.

I'm not even a good one pocket player so I'm not saying I'm right or anything, I'm just trying to learn something because I've only played this game maybe 20 times.
 
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ShaneT58 said:
Just a question... How far do you think that 8 or 1 is going to move if you hit it thin enough to get back behind the 6 and 7?

My experience with shooting this type of shot is that it gets pretty close, just remember that you are not trying to make it, just get it close and preferably on your long rail. By shooting for the long rail, you will hit it a bit thicker which gets it over there. Do not forget that this shot is all about cue ball control and you are trying to survive. Banking the 8 is just a way to do this while at the same time reversing the situation. It doesn't matter where the 8 lands if your opponent has an easy shot to his hole; the game is probably over in that case.

Try setting it up and shooting it a few times. Not only will you know for sure, but you will increase your comfort level with the shot for when you need to do it in a game situation.
 
Neil said:
I agree, but I would be banking the one into the eight to also get the eight by my pocket.

NO you wouldn't. You have to play the CB here and to move the 8 to your side would require too hard a hit.
 
Its pretty hard to go by one of these graphics. If any of us were at the table it would most likely be different.

I like going the 4 rails with the cue, and if possible bank the 8 in the process. I'd stay away from the one as it's pictured just in case it clips the back of the 8 and plays for your opponent.
 
Further, what happens if you clip the 8 with the bank on the 1 and one of them snags the CB on its way by?
 
Russ Chewning said:
Look at the angle your shooting into.. You have maybe a half diamond target, and you are having to be exact with unnatural english to get there.. If you put slightly too much english, you hit the 9 and either scratch, or let him take out your 4 ball, leaving you safe.

If you don't put enough english, you end up scratching..

If you are trying to get behind the 6 and 7 anyways, and don't care if you foul, shoot the "natural" four railer. It's a natural position route we use off a thin cut into the side to go four rails back down table. Everyone should have a very good feel for the four rail angle. Just kick it with the speed to fall just on the 6/7. It looks near impossible to sell out anything if you use the right speed.

Russ

It goes without saying that if you don't know the shot don't shoot it. Different players have different limitations.
 
How about rolling the cue ball up close to the one. You might make a legal hit, or you might foul, but make sure that your opponent does not have a shot on his pocket. The two ball next to your pocket will be protected.

When in a tough situation, do something simple.

Regards,

Doug
 
Salamander said:
How about rolling the cue ball up close to the one. You might make a legal hit, or you might foul, but make sure that your opponent does not have a shot on his pocket. The two ball next to your pocket will be protected.

When in a tough situation, do something simple.

Regards,

Doug

Because if you leak out to the left, he can either cut in the 9 with speed to fall on the side rail, or he can take out your 2.

If you leak out to the right, he banks the 5 right into his pocket, following the cue ball to the rail, likely making it and running out.

The only safe place near the 1 is the exact spot where the 8 ball is blocking the 9, 5 AND 2, all at once. If you let him see any of those three balls, yer goose is cooked.

And THEN, if by some miracle, you get him exactly there, he just nicks the side of the 8, going to the side rail, and back over to the bottom rail in line with his pocket and the 5, hiding his 9.

You will be lieft with a super thin cut on the 2, with no ability to play position (you'll be frozen on the rail, or nearly so.).

He will probably pay you to shoot the 2 ball at this point. :D :D :D

Russ
 
I hear ya. But because of the proximity to the shot, it might be easier to execute than you think. I'm amazed at how many situations that I have gotten out of by simply fouling. It only costs you a ball, and frustrates your opponent.

Regards,

Doug

Russ Chewning said:
Because if you leak out to the left, he can either cut in the 9 with speed to fall on the side rail, or he can take out your 2.

If you leak out to the right, he banks the 5 right into his pocket, following the cue ball to the rail, likely making it and running out.

The only safe place near the 1 is the exact spot where the 8 ball is blocking the 9, 5 AND 2, all at once. If you let him see any of those three balls, yer goose is cooked.

And THEN, if by some miracle, you get him exactly there, he just nicks the side of the 8, going to the side rail, and back over to the bottom rail in line with his pocket and the 5, hiding his 9.

You will be lieft with a super thin cut on the 2, with no ability to play position (you'll be frozen on the rail, or nearly so.).

He will probably pay you to shoot the 2 ball at this point. :D :D :D

Russ
 
Salamander said:
I hear ya. But because of the proximity to the shot, it might be easier to execute than you think. I'm amazed at how many situations that I have gotten out of by simply fouling. It only costs you a ball, and frustrates your opponent.

Regards,

Doug

Well yeah, a foul is probably the right way to go.

I don't believe you are thinking about this situation the right way, though.

Do like Grady says.. Look at the horrible situation on the table, and try to find the BEST place on the table for the cueball. Of course, it would be close to your opponent's pocket, and preferably right behind the 6 and 7.

Can you find a path to that point? Yes.. By using either a two rail kick, or a 4 rail kick. Either one you can hit a little bad and still come out good.

I'll say that again for emphasis: You can hit either the 2 railer or 4 railer kick a little bad and still have decent results.

With your shot, if you hit it a little bad, you opponent is shooting for his hole..

I think you may be overlooking the kicks because you might not be familiar with the angles.. All good One Pocket players know these kicks, and can execute them well.

Russ
 
You can certainly kick, which is quite simple to do, but you might very will leave a long table bank for your opponent. A nice free shot at his hole.

We obviously have divergent styles and ways of looking at the game. I would enjoy matching up with you, it would undoubtedly educate me from a different perspective.

Regards,

Doug



Russ Chewning said:
Well yeah, a foul is probably the right way to go.

I don't believe you are thinking about this situation the right way, though.

Do like Grady says.. Look at the horrible situation on the table, and try to find the BEST place on the table for the cueball. Of course, it would be close to your opponent's pocket, and preferably right behind the 6 and 7.

Can you find a path to that point? Yes.. By using either a two rail kick, or a 4 rail kick. Either one you can hit a little bad and still come out good.

I'll say that again for emphasis: You can hit either the 2 railer or 4 railer kick a little bad and still have decent results.

With your shot, if you hit it a little bad, you opponent is shooting for his hole..

I think you may be overlooking the kicks because you might not be familiar with the angles.. All good One Pocket players know these kicks, and can execute them well.

Russ
 
Salamander said:
You can certainly kick, which is quite simple to do, but you might very will leave a long table bank for your opponent. A nice free shot at his hole.

We obviously have divergent styles and ways of looking at the game. I would enjoy matching up with you, it would undoubtedly educate me from a different perspective.

Regards,

Doug

Salamander, all the banks are blocked, as long as you don't move any of those balls. That's why some of us are saying just kick, don't move any of the balls that are in the banking lanes..

With the balls in the position they are now, neither the 8, 5, or 9 can be banked straight back.

Russ
 
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