Open / Closed Bridge Rules?

Here's a thought that came to mind after reading some of the reasons that some use one over the other.

How about sitting the cue on an open bridge for 'sighting/alignment' purpose & then once the alignment is determined going straight into a closed bridge when one would be desired.

I do it many times when I change my mind when down on a shot & decided to hit the ball low instead of high.

I can do it without the stick alignment changing at all.

Just an idea & perhaps some food for thought for some.

Best,
Rick
 
JoeW:

Thanks for posting Colin's break video. Put it to practice last night, big improvement on power and control.
 
JohnnyP said:
Thanks for posting Colin's break video. Put it to practice last night, big improvement on power and control.
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Yeah, Colin does a heck of a job. I suspect (don't know) that Shane V may have learned something from him because Shane's break seems to have several elements that Colin discusses.

I did find that it was useful to go back and review Colin's video a couple of times. Each time I seemed to pick up a little bit more. I heard him the first time but could only incorporate one or two of his ideas. A later viewing lead me to emphasize more of what he talks about. Its funny but the brain and muscle memory can only absorb so much of this new info. After it is well learned additional information can be included.

But like everything else in pool, I am still working on it.
 
open bridges give you more velocity when stroking. although be careful if you are trying to draw a ball, with an open bridge i hit more center bottom rather than way down there. watch snooker players stroke with an open bridge, its nutz or rafael martinez, that guy can juice a ball and all he uses is an open bridge
 
FrankieD said:
I do understand that most players use a closed bridge for a power a power draw, but are all other shots totally player choice?
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I think it's all your choice, could be wrong but why wouldn't it all be your choice?
I personally use closed bridge for 99% of my shots, from the break shot on down. For me the cue is a lot more stable with a closed bridge, thus I use and stay with what works.
 
FrankieD said:
I am completely aware that a player's bridge, whether open or closed, can be very subjective. Early on, I had concocted my own theory that a closed bridge is more stable, therefore I should be using the closed bridge as much as possible.

I've been watching more and more videos of pros that use an open bridge on open table shots and they clearly make more balls than I do. I then consciously made a point to use an open bridge more often with some success and it got me thinking.

Are there any rules of thumb on which bridge I should be using depending on distance, angle, english, etc. I do understand that most players use a closed bridge for a power a power draw, but are all other shots totally player choice?
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An open bridge offers many advantages; although, a closed bridge is required on certain shots (e.g., adjacent to a rail cushion). For a complete list of the advantages, along with videos illustrations the concepts, see the open vs. closed bridge resource page.

FYI, here's a link to a comprehensive online video dealing with this topic:
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice

Enjoy,
Dave
 
dr_dave said:
An open bridge offers many advantages; although, a closed bridge is required on certain shots (e.g., adjacent to a rail cushion). For a complete list of the advantages, along with videos illustrations the concepts, see the open vs. closed bridge resource page.

FYI, here's a link to a comprehensive online video dealing with this topic:
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice

Enjoy,
Dave
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I agree with most of what your saying here Dave. When you covered your bases and then said otherwise whether the bridge is open or closed really has no effect on the cue ball you were and will always remain wrong. I won't post a slow mo video and get all the geek squad to maintain the cite to prove it - you need to take a closer look at the mechanics of the swing when the players hand is not securing the top of the cue. You may rest assured that when using the open hand bridge that the cue ball jumps a great deal less than with the closed on a moderate to firm hit. This also allows the white and the object ball to receive more immediate energy pound for "" than the closed. I agree with John in that an aspiring player should just watch the champions and the way they alternate from open to closed. It takes a great player and teacher to show you when and where to make the distinction not a rocket scientist with a degree in quantum physics.
 
Keep an open mind to bridge the gap

dr_dave said:
An open bridge offers many advantages; although, a closed bridge is required on certain shots (e.g., adjacent to a rail cushion). For a complete list of the advantages, along with videos illustrations the concepts, see the open vs. closed bridge resource page.

FYI, here's a link to a comprehensive online video dealing with this topic:
NV B.96 - Grip and bridge technique and advice

Enjoy,
Dave
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I agree with most of what your saying here Dave. When you covered your bases and then said otherwise whether the bridge is open or closed really has no effect on the cue ball you were and will always remain wrong. I won't post a slow mo video and get all the geek squad to maintain the cite to prove it - you need to take a closer look at the mechanics of the swing when the players hand is not securing the top of the cue. You may rest assured that when using the open hand bridge that the cue ball jumps a great deal less than with the closed on a moderate to firm hit. This also allows the white and the object ball to receive more immediate energy pound for "" than the closed. I agree with John in that an aspiring player should just watch the champions and the way they alternate from open to closed in relation to where they would like the white to take residence. It takes a great player and teacher to show you when and where to make the distinction not a rocket scientist with a degree in quantum physics. Not to be brutally honest here but if you think that both bridges make the cue ball react basically the same way then I would be willing to bet you have never run a hundred balls in your lifetime.
 
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All of this bridging stuff actually hides the real critical movement of the stroke - the back (stick) hand. If you can't make that go straight, the bridge does not help.

Bob Jewett has the "No Hands Drill" in his "Basics" clinic. But it is far more than just another drill.

Riding the stick on the rail without using a bridge hand to guide the shaft requires a true and straight stroke movement and follow-through. If you want to dial in a trustworthy and accurate stroke - master this drill.

It is progressive - start with slow and learn to get a true ball roll with a proper follow-through.
Increase to medium speed.
Increase to 3/4 break speed.
Put an OB half way up the table. Pocket the ball at all three speeds.
Put an OB 3/4 up the table (on head string) - pocket both balls (slow & medium speeds).

This will fix all of the stroking errors you have ever had.

When I coach strong players - this is the first table exercise they do to demonstrate competence.

And when you are warming up for a match - this should be your primary warmup.
 
allanpsand said:
Riding the stick on the rail without using a bridge hand to guide the shaft requires a true and straight stroke movement and follow-through. If you want to dial in a trustworthy and accurate stroke - master this drill.
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I am going to try this. Am I to keep my stance the same? Still bend at the waist as if i was shooting normally, but instead of using a bridge hand rest the cue on the rail?
 
FrankieD said:
I am going to try this. Am I to keep my stance the same? Still bend at the waist as if i was shooting normally, but instead of using a bridge hand rest the cue on the rail?
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The whole stance is the same - with the bridge hand slightly to the side (1/2 inch or so) so as to not interfere with your stroke. You will find that the results reveal many hidden sins. ;-)
 
To myself bridge distance is the Holy Grail. I always choose to have less shaft sticking out than more, with more causing my bridge to close up. Compactness of your hand in relation to cue ball and object ball distance as related to shape is Everything and helps determine my bridge choice. I started having thoughts of Ronnie Allen. His simplicity of choices and use of bridges, and his soft hands were neat to see in action. And some of the great players, if ya shook their hand it was like grabbing a soft warm Giant cookie. Bernardo Chavez (King Kong) has the neatest softest hands of all.
 
allanpsand said:
The whole stance is the same - with the bridge hand slightly to the side (1/2 inch or so) so as to not interfere with your stroke. You will find that the results reveal many hidden sins. ;-)
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I took a scrap of wood and made a portable "rail" that is about 8" long, 1 1/2" wide and 1" high. I rounded the top over into a slight radius so the shaft would slide freely over it. It is just a bit higher than a low open bridge, so you can carry it around the table and place it behind the CB at whatever bridge length you choose. This allows you to place your real bridge hand directly behind the ball, but the shaft rides over your hand on the wood without touching the hand at all.

It feels real natural and you can use your regular PSR to drop down on the shot. Only thing unnatural feeling is the dang cue sliding all over the place at first, but you soon learn to stroke real straight or you miss the CB entirely. It's even harder with a loose grip (which I favor), but once you can stroke well with it you know it's all you and your shooting arm. :cool:
 
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