Options for warped forearm?

measureman said:
How did the old time cue makers make cues that are still straight after 40 or 50 years with out coring?
When did coring start?
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1-Old wood is a great place to start but it still had to seasoned.
How many old antique cues have you seen made out of Amboyna, Thua, Spalted anything, Tamarind etc etc etc

The woods we work with today from quick growth to Exotic require different disciplines and philosophies!
Have a great day!
 
Michael Webb said:
1-Old wood is a great place to start but it still had to seasoned.
How many old antique cues have you seen made out of Amboyna, Thua, Spalted anything, Tamarind etc etc etc

The woods we work with today from quick growth to Exotic require different disciplines and philosophies!
Have a great day!
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Thanks that makes sense.
Pretty much all of the real old cues were straight grain Maple.
 
measureman said:
How did the old time cue makers make cues that are still straight after 40 or 50 years with out coring?
When did coring start?
Click to expand...
They where generally more conservative in what woods they used, maple, rosewood and ebony was the main woods used. Today, thanks to coring and stabilizing and better glues we can use a much larger selection of woods, but only if if we take the appropriate steps, which in OP's case wasn't done.
 
measureman said:
How did the old time cue makers make cues that are still straight after 40 or 50 years with out coring?
When did coring start?
Click to expand...
A lot of them aren't straight anymore.
Bill Stroud claimed he was the first one to core cues .
 
measureman said:
How did the old time cue makers make cues that are still straight after 40 or 50 years with out coring?
When did coring start?
Click to expand...
They used straight grain stable, boring wood.

Then folks figured out how to use flashier unstable wood with grain running every which way.

And here we are
 
I think a burl at least is on the builder if it warps and is not cored unless there was a high degree of disclosure up front and the customer still wanted it. Even without abuse, cues aren't impervious to moisture change and will undergo changes no matter how much "seasoning" is done. If the grain is going different ways, it will expand and contract in different ways. It's simply how the material works.

I do have some rather ludicrous ideas for making wood less hygroscopic. I will probably get a chance to experiment within the next year or so.
 
thoffen said:
I think a burl at least is on the builder if it warps and is not cored unless there was a high degree of disclosure up front and the customer still wanted it. Even without abuse, cues aren't impervious to moisture change and will undergo changes no matter how much "seasoning" is done. If the grain is going different ways, it will expand and contract in different ways. It's simply how the material works.

I do have some rather ludicrous ideas for making wood less hygroscopic. I will probably get a chance to experiment within the next year or so.
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HOPEFULLY some of what we Cue makers post on here will at least sink in so some members and lurkers can ask thier Cue makers questions before the build.
But WE, are a small drop in the bucket and can only Educate the one's who actually read what we post.
 
Seasoning the wood is the key . I work with lumber everyday and am still surprised at the things it can do. Allowing the wood to sit for long periods of time unworked is a discipline in it's self.
 
Michael Webb said:
The Forearm is the heart of the cue. If you plan on changing it to a cored Forearm, the hit will change.
You said you liked the way this one played.
Different is different. Might as well get another cue.
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What would you suggest as a forearm, then? What would be best above a quilted maple handle?
 
JohnnyOzone said:
What would you suggest as a forearm, then? What would be best above a quilted maple handle?
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Hi John
Could be pretty much whatever you wanted. But keep in mind, my answer is based on the fact that I core everything. Plain handles too. My coring technique is different than some because I season the woods before and after coring. I season the coring dowells too. It's a lot of work but it's my choice to do it that way.
 
Like @Michael Webb explained, the wood today is to young. We don't let trees grow till they mature before cutting them down. Cues that were built 50-60 years ago were built from wood that came from trees that were 100 plus years old before they were cut down. Then the lumber was properly aged. Today that just doesn't happen.

Also look at the wood that was used.... Most of it was straight grain maple, with hardwood points, or no points at all. We live in a hurry up world today.
 
Michael Webb said:
Hi John
Could be pretty much whatever you wanted. But keep in mind, my answer is based on the fact that I core everything. Plain handles too. My coring technique is different than some because I season the woods before and after coring. I season the coring dowells too. It's a lot of work but it's my choice to do it that way.
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I have been using keilwood as a core. Less chance of warping and a great hit.
 
R2PQZ said:
I have been using keilwood as a core. Less chance of warping and a great hit.
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Nice. Lots of options for cores. It's all about what you feel is best for your construction methods. That goes for Glues/Epoxies too.
When your convinced and satisfied, only time will prove your theories.
 
Michael Webb said:
Nice. Lots of options for cores. It's all about what you feel is best for your construction methods. That goes for Glues/Epoxies too.
When your convinced and satisfied, only time will prove your theories.
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Slipped my mind. Had one of your cues in my shop recently. Cocobolo with Ebony points. Just matched a Z shaft to the butt. I noticed your core. May be more stable than Keilwood. Nice finish and perfectly pressed linen. First cue of yours I have seen. Very impressive.
 
R2PQZ said:
Slipped my mind. Had one of your cues in my shop recently. Cocobolo with Ebony points. Just matched a Z shaft to the butt. I noticed your core. May be more stable than Keilwood. Nice finish and perfectly pressed linen. First cue of yours I have seen. Very impressive.
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Thank you
If the core was different colors, it was laminated birch. Early 2000 cue. I switched to maple cores soon after.
Now I core everything, handles too. I even core the laminated handles I bought after I tested one and epoxy came thru. I use slow drying Epoxy. There's no rush!
 
R2PQZ said:
Slipped my mind. Had one of your cues in my shop recently. Cocobolo with Ebony points. Just matched a Z shaft to the butt. I noticed your core. May be more stable than Keilwood. Nice finish and perfectly pressed linen. First cue of yours I have seen. Very impressive.
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Duplicate post
 
Michael Webb said:
Thank you
If the core was different colors, it was laminated birch. Early 2000 cue. I switched to maple cores soon after.
Now I core everything, handles too. I even core the laminated handles I bought after I tested one and epoxy came thru. I use slow drying Epoxy. There's no rush!
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It was different colors. Similar to Spectraply I use. Cue in great shape for its age.
 
R2PQZ said:
Slipped my mind. Had one of your cues in my shop recently. Cocobolo with Ebony points. Just matched a Z shaft to the butt. I noticed your core. May be more stable than Keilwood. Nice finish and perfectly pressed linen. First cue of yours I have seen. Very impressive.
Click to expand...

You should be impressed, @Michael Webb is second to none IMHO. I always come back to one of his cues, or shafts. I still have to come by Mike!
 
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