OTLB vs AZB forum mechanics

not normally. it the dowells fit real tight, its good to go. We use liquid dowells at three spots and absolutely never had a problem. that goes for taking it apart also. an ounce of prevention.......
 
Here is a pic of a table I did, joints were touched up where there were some chips but as you can see, no seam before
 
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I thought you could do it with no gaps though? You've got a gap between those slates big enough a man can fit in it!!! Amateur. ;)

(All in good fun)
 
OTLB said:
Here is a pic of a table I did, joints were touched up where there were some chips but as you can see, no seam before
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Can't really compare billiards slates to pool slates, as most billiards slates are first mounted to the frame of the table, then machine ground flat, then taken apart and shipped out as a matching frame and slate. Pool tables don't come with matched slates to the frames, therefore there's a little more work involved in matching the slates at the seams;)

Glen
 
here is a pic of a GC V, I posted seam pics the other day, no fill in the seams, seam gaps at .002. Granito cloth and no ball movement at seams. Corner pockets all at 3 inches and sides at 3.5\8. Welded cups to drop feet down below normal.
 
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Looks like your side pocket is about 1/16 off from the other side rail.
Have you no pride?!? lol
Although now I think I need to change my decor.... I see too many of the same thing that I have on my walls!
Except for the snowboard with the pooltable and cash decorating the wall by the neon-lol
Doesn't anyone sleep around here?
I just get home from working, and the same guys are on here posting that were here when I left a couple of days ago!
 
OTLB, you've gone from a billiards table to a 10 ft snooker table, where's the pictures of the seams on a GC1,2,3, or 4? How about some seams on some of the Olhausen tables, or better yet, Chinese tables?

Glen
 
This is a GC V 9 ft pool table made into snooker not a 10 footer. Next time I work on an Olhausen I will be happy to take pictures. Have a little 8 foot Brunswick this weekend and will see what that looks like. Have an antique 4 piece slate tomorrow but that one has alot of chips. There was a sag causing some minor level problems on this one so as I stated previously to correct this I simply added a brace and adjuster. Very easy way to correct a problem up or down. Doesn't cost anything really either. Its what I have done to address a problem and many times is very helpful especially working with older GC's and other doweled slate tables.. I am also working on the development of a production adjuster at this time and hopefully it will be on the market early next year. Also have inframe adjusters that can be added to a frame.

If the seams are nice, I think I can make them match up well enough so the ball doesn't know the difference. This is my new goal. If they don't, oh well, I am going to try though. It is hard to do this without gluing them though. There are other methods to do this as I have seen on other makes of tables. For instance, JAFCO makes a table with more slate adjusters than any table I have ever seen.
 
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gap

if that is the way you correct it, what about the space between the slate and the frame. Should there not be a shim in there? I would surely hope so.
Ron
 
slates

I disagree. If you are putting pressure on the slate then there is a gap in between the frame and the slate. If you use your feeler gauges, i am sure there is something. There for there should be a shim.
Ron
 
Did a table for a guy today and the seams had no fill in them(NONE). Although they weren't even close to being perfectly even the cloth had no line mark and it did have play as it had tracks near the rails. New carpet going down and when it goes back together I will post better pics of the seams after I set them up. Table was a Topline with a weak frame. Couldn't believe it when I saw nothing in the seams and the guy was wanting to know why I was taking pictures. Not only that whoever set it up had the middle slate inverted. Heres is a pic. So my point is; heres another guy who doesn't think you need to lay down bondo if the seams are close.
 
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Actually some of those Topline and National frames are VERY sturdy for as little as there is to them. Most of them level up fairly good in my experience. Although it DOES help if you have the slate on the right direction. LOL
 
yeah, the design of their frame is on the right path though. If I were still building tables I would utilize it. Really don't care for the box design but as seen with billiard tables it is the best I think.

I think there should be a better designed pool table over what there is out there now. I have alot ideas and many tables have neat features but none of them are really Truly great. Anyone ever think about it? What if an investor told you that they wanted you to design a new pool table line for professionals. It can't look like a Gold Crown.
 
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OTLB said:
yeah, the design of their frame is on the right path though. If I were still building tables I would utilize it. Really don't care for the box design but as seen with billiard tables it is the best I think.

I think there should be a better designed pool table over what there is out there now. I have alot ideas and many tables have neat features but none of them are really Truly great. Anyone ever think about it? What if an investor told you that they wanted you to design a new pool table line for professionals. It can't look like a Gold Crown.
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The best designed pool table in the world already exists, it's the Diamond ProAm series of tables with the one piece slates and the 26 point leveling system, which allows you to have complete control over the level of the slate and frame of the table in such a manner that the slate can be fine tuned with the rails still bolted down and the cloth on the slate, and no seams, what's better than that today? AND, the table can be moved and set up without having to take it apart, only having to remove the legs for transporting, which store inside the frame of the table!

Glen
 
I don't consider a table that can't be moved into where normal pool tables can go to be the best. Even if you can roll it somewhere what happens when the customer wants to sell it? The new customer also has to have easy access. This limits the item.
 
OTLB said:
I don't consider a table that can't be moved into where normal pool tables can go to be the best. Even if you can roll it somewhere what happens when the customer wants to sell it? The new customer also has to have easy access. This limits the item.
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It limits the item to being moved by someone qualified to move it. Not a bad thing in my opinion. Olhausen does the same thing, but anyone mechanically inclined with a screwdriver and a socket wrench can take their tables apart. So you have to trust that an "authorized technician" has done all the maintenance on the table to maintain the warranty. I'm not as familiar with Diamond's warranty terms, but I do feel like most people who would own a Diamond ProAm would probably be inclined to call Diamond (or Glen) ;) if they ever needed it moved.
 
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