Palmer cue question?
- Thread starter 67GT500
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Palmer used an epoxy finish on some cues- at least in their third catalog cues- it tends to yellow over time and sometimes it cracks/crazes. Those Palmers don't look so good if the old finish cracks- but I have a third catalog Palmer with that epoxy finish that just turned yellow and did not crack at all except slightly on the buttcap. I would probably refinish an epoxy cue that cracked, but for mine that just yellowed, it sort of gives the cue some patina- some character, and I decided to leave it alone .The modern clear coat really makes the cue "pop" more than the original (varnish?) finish.
You did well.
Palmer's Model M with the winding veneers were all veneered by Gene Balner himself - only he could do it- Mike's refinish really shows off Gene's work so well!
Thank you.The modern clear coat really makes the cue "pop" more than the original (varnish?) finish.
You did well.
It was by far my most challenging restoration to date. Took way to long and took a lot out of me. But what I learned and what was accomplished is Priceless to me.
Great work, Mike!!
Thank you Mike.
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wow!
Has Tate seen the thread or cue? I recall he is quite the Palmer collector.
Thanks - Type79, Jay Fishbein, is now the go-to guy. If anybody needs anything, Jay knows his stuff and is more current than me. We have consulted quite a bit, including contacts with Peter Balner.
Well done Mike!! That cue deserved the time and effort that you put in it.
Yes Sir
Everyone saw, including Mr. Balner.
Now, as a standard, I show type79 all of my restorations.
And I must say, you have done some memorable, and quite ambitious, Palmer restorations.
Little known fact...Ina Balner (Gene's wife) did much of the inlay work on Palmer cues.
Scott Lee
2019 PBIA Instructor of the Year
Director, SPF National Pool School Tour
I do not, the Palmer Collector site serves that purpose.
Thank you my friend.
More to come.
Hey Mike, Do you know a safe way to restore the finish of the nickel joint? That's the only blemish on my Palmer and can be seen on one of the pictures I posted. Thanks for any tips you or anyone could provide me.
For hand rubbing, I've always liked Simichrome metal polish. For more aggressive needs, I use a dremil with a soft attachment and white rouge. I use it on everything from stainless joints to joint screws.
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Thanks Mike, I was afraid to try anything for fear I might make things worse. I'll start with the least aggressive approach with the simichrome first and work from there.
If you do have to get more aggressive with it, Be careful not to over heat the joint in case your spinning it. It doesn't take much to break down that old glue holding it on.
Good luck.