Photographing Cues

[Jack Justis]

I was just curious why no one mentioned using a polarizing filter to eleminate glare. I have no reason to photograph cues, however when I was making rods with the same high gloss finish as the cues, I always used a PF. Using the filter does cut about 2 stops of light and using a tripod is required. Also angling the lighting is a must.

 

[thepavlos]

Hi
I was going to ask a similar question: What basic (i.e. inexpensive) equipment or techniques are recommended for optimal cue photography? Thank you in advance for any help
Paul

 

[Snapshot9]

Do you?

Use a macro setting for the close detail shots, and just
a regular setting for the overall cue shots?

 

[linds]

I was just curious why no one mentioned using a polarizing filter to eleminate glare. I have no reason to photograph cues, however when I was making rods with the same high gloss finish as the cues, I always used a PF. Using the filter does cut about 2 stops of light and using a tripod is required. Also angling the lighting is a must.

nice observation... i really need to learn more about photography
this is also the case on most ( 1 man army ) site/s i've visited...

 

[TheBook]

Try indirect lighting. Bounce the flash or lights off a white wall or ceiling.

You could also try using white poster board and curving it. Place it above the cue and reflect the light off of it.

You could also try using a flourescent lamp with a old white sheet over it.

You may also have to use more than one light. A filler light for the background and then your main light.

Sometimes it also helps if you stand back and zoom in instead of getting as close as you can. This also helps to spread the light.

Photography is painting with light. It is a lot easier now with the digital cameras because you can get instant results. Try different things and have fun, be sure to take notes on what you do so you can duplicate it after you get the results you want.

 

[TATE]

hi jack!
still loving my 2 lightweight cases! thanks!

i mentioned using a polarizing filter in a reply to one of zeeders threads in the cue gallery. for digital photography with auto focus you are supposed to use a "circular polarizing filter" which would still allow the auto foucs to function properly. they are also rotatable on the lens to move the glare that is left. i have been using one as well but now find in need to purchase more lighting to make up for the 2 stop loss you mention.

jeff

I've just ordered the cool light 600W studio system from these folks:

http://www.sell-it-on-the-net.com/online_store/photography_studio_kits.htm

I've had really great service from them on other items - can't wait to get these lights in.

Chris

 

[LWW]

Take a regular camera with a threaded lens.

Put a PF on the front and find a piece of glass, not a mirror, that casts a reflection.

Adjust the PF until reflections are gone.

Take pics.

LWW

 

[TATE]

looks nice! you order a tent as well? let me know how it work's out. i currently use enclosed flourescent lights but was thinking about trying one of the new led strips.

I have a 4' tent but I haven't had time to experiment with it too much. I can tell you the large one is clumsy to work with and needs a ton of lighting. I'll experiment more when I get the additional lights. I'm also taking your advice and going with the circular polarizing filter. I have a few slow months coming up, so I should have time (and energy) to mess around with my photography a little.

Chris

 

[TATE]

unfortunately i think you are going to find the 4' needs just as much light and is even clumsier to work with. i spent the money, used it once and stored it away.

Glad to know I'm not the only one . My daughter wants it for a play house anyway.

Jeff, do you use a two light set up? Is your camera shot from overhead or from a tripod?

Chris

 

[TATE]

i have one light enclosure at both ends of the cue and suspend the cue about a foot from the background. i do this to keep shadow or color reflections to a minimum from the background.
i use a tripod with an extending cantilevered arm so the camera is directly above the cue. but you can also just use a standard tripod placed over the cue but not blocking the light source. (if you tripod is black - otherwise the tripod itself will reflect on the cue)
but in the few months i've been doing this my set up has changed about 50 times so far this has worked best

p.s. let me know if your daughter needs another playhouse

Thanks for sharing the information. I'll try this set up. I know there's a lot of trial and error in this stuff and it's nice to have a couple of you experienced guys helping us beginners.

Chris

 

[zeeder]

Thanks for sharing the information. I'll try this set up. I know there's a lot of trial and error in this stuff and it's nice to have a couple of you experienced guys helping us beginners.

Chris

I second that. When I get home today I think I am going to play around with taking pics again. The light set I just bought only has two lights and I found I was still having issues getting enough light, especially when trying to take a pic of the forearm.

 

[bruin70]

I was just curious why no one mentioned using a polarizing filter to eleminate glare. I have no reason to photograph cues, however when I was making rods with the same high gloss finish as the cues, I always used a PF. Using the filter does cut about 2 stops of light and using a tripod is required. Also angling the lighting is a must.

don't need one. and it distorts the color anyway

 

[Chops Louie]

Photog Tips

The pola filter is very useful for specular point light sources that intersect at greater than 45 degrees. It will also enhance chroma saturation. Using light is like kicking and banking without english, "the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection". Circular reflective objects like glass spheres and shiny cues are almost impossible to light without some type of highlight. I once had a client whose ad included a 2 foot high hourglass. Talk about multiple angles and reflection bounce! We anded up photoshoping out the highlights in post.
A cheaper way than a tent for soft lighting is to get some 4x8' fome core at your local pro photo supply store that is black on one side / white on the other. Cut a hole thru it as large as your lens and face the blk side to cue to mask your relection. Angle other wht side pieces toward cue with point lights bouncing into fome core.
Also watch your kelvin color temperature so sources are the same type. Match your white balance of souces to camera setting or film stock. Try not to use auto. i.e., incandescent bulbs = ~3200 kelvin = indoor setting of most cameras. daylight= ~5600 kelvin= outdoor settings. flourescents vary greatly but most cool white is ~ daylight balanced with a slight green spike.
Paying attention to color temp. will give you the most accurate product rendition.
Good Luck!

 

[TATE]

Also watch your kelvin color temperature so sources are the same type. Match your white balance of souces to camera setting or film stock. Try not to use auto. i.e., incandescent bulbs = ~3200 kelvin = indoor setting of most cameras. daylight= ~5600 kelvin= outdoor settings. flourescents vary greatly but most cool white is ~ daylight balanced with a slight green spike.
Paying attention to color temp. will give you the most accurate product rendition.
Good Luck!

My Canon G6 has a white balance setting. How should I set it for a white background, no flash, and pretty bright flourescent lights? Please use simple instructions, I'm a beginner.

Chris

 

[TATE]

I second that. When I get home today I think I am going to play around with taking pics again. The light set I just bought only has two lights and I found I was still having issues getting enough light, especially when trying to take a pic of the forearm.

I was very impressed with your last set of photos.

Chris

 

[bruin70]

My Canon G6 has a white balance setting. How should I set it for a white background, no flash, and pretty bright flourescent lights? Please use simple instructions, I'm a beginner.

Chris

your g6 should have a manual WB....my g3 does. get a photographers grey card(white on the other side). set your g6 to take a manual WB setting,,,,aim the camera at the grey card so that the card covers the whole lcd screen,,,set the wb and save it,,,,it will be save as "custom1" i think.

under manual, it doesn't matter what the lighting is. manual WB will balance the color properly. if you use a polarizer, you set the WB with the polarizer on your lens.

canon also has its zoom browser software that will also correct for WB, but you don't need it

when you WB manually, you are telling the camera that whatever you are pointing at is color balanced and the camera will adjust to it. therefore, if you wanted to WB and you pointed at someing red, telling the camera that this red thing is color balanced, the camera will think the red is balanced,,,,and what you get is everything in your photos tinted to green

the manul for the canon will tell you what shooting modes will accomodate your manual WB.

white backgrounds becomes an exposure issue. i suggest against it for the simple reason that as the cylindrical shape of the glossy cue curves away, it will reflect all that white background and the edges of your cue will appear to fade. you want as little reflection as possible when getting a good photo of something shiny and cylindrical,,....which means certainly nothing light behind you or the cue

 

[X Breaker]

Thank you so much everyone.
How about taking pictures of pool players in a dark tournament room without flash, any suggestion?

Richard<--trying to get some free advice here

 

[bruin70]

Thank you so much everyone.
How about taking pictures of pool players in a dark tournament room without flash, any suggestion?

Richard<--trying to get some free advice here

one of the very cool things about digital cameras are that they can to all the exposure work for you.

1...DON'T FLASH. it will disturb the players, and the flash is not effective at the distance you will be from the players anyway. the digital camera will expose fine without a flash

2....most cameras have a few ways to expose. one is "center meter" or spot meter. it will expose for anything within that tiny rectangular area in your viewfinder. don't use the overall exposure because the camera will consider all areas in the room(mainly the dark areas)equally, will expose for the dark areas, and the players will be washed out. then there are other settings(maybe) that emphasize 60% in the rectangle and 40% for everywhere else. i would try this and the spot meter and see which you like the best

 

[X Breaker]

one of the very cool things about digital cameras are that they can to all the exposure work for you.

1...DON'T FLASH. it will disturb the players, and the flash is not effective at the distance you will be from the players anyway. the digital camera will expose fine without a flash

2....most cameras have a few ways to expose. one is "center meter" or spot meter. it will expose for anything within that tiny rectangular area in your viewfinder. don't use the overall exposure because the camera will consider all areas in the room(mainly the dark areas)equally, will expose for the dark areas, and the players will be washed out. then there are other settings(maybe) that emphasize 60% in the rectangle and 40% for everywhere else. i would try this and the spot meter and see which you like the best

Thanks. I will try it.

 

[TATE]

your g6 should have a manual WB....my g3 does. get a photographers grey card(white on the other side). set your g6 to take a manual WB setting,,,,aim the camera at the grey card so that the card covers the whole lcd screen,,,set the wb and save it,,,,it will be save as "custom1" i think.

under manual, it doesn't matter what the lighting is. manual WB will balance the color properly. if you use a polarizer, you set the WB with the polarizer on your lens.

canon also has its zoom browser software that will also correct for WB, but you don't need it

when you WB manually, you are telling the camera that whatever you are pointing at is color balanced and the camera will adjust to it. therefore, if you wanted to WB and you pointed at someing red, telling the camera that this red thing is color balanced, the camera will think the red is balanced,,,,and what you get is everything in your photos tinted to green

the manul for the canon will tell you what shooting modes will accomodate your manual WB.

white backgrounds becomes an exposure issue. i suggest against it for the simple reason that as the cylindrical shape of the glossy cue curves away, it will reflect all that white background and the edges of your cue will appear to fade. you want as little reflection as possible when getting a good photo of something shiny and cylindrical,,....which means certainly nothing light behind you or the cue

OK Thanks - I'll try the grey card.