Pictures of new Valley 7ft Replacement rails.
- Thread starter realkingcobra
- Start date
Ridgeback rails.
The reason we call our new rails "Ridgeback" rails is because of the way we dado the backs of the rails, leaving a ridge down the center of the backs of the rails flush to the top and bottoms of the rails. The purpose of this ridge is to prevent the rails from being cracked if over tightened when being installed. If you take a look at the entrance of the T-nut, you'll see that it has been flanged so that it can't be pushed back through the rail when pushing the rail bolt into it. I actually installed a bolt in the T-nut, stood the rail on the bolt, then stood on the rail with my 265lbs and it still wouldn't push through the rail bolt hole, good enough for me...LOL Also, the T-nuts we use are not threaded for the first 1/4" which allows for proper alignment of the rail bolt to the T-nut before threading, which means it's very very hard to cross thread the rail bolt when attaching our rails to the table. In fact, cutting away any overlapping cloth in order to make room to thread the rail bolt is not needed with our rails.
The reason we call our new rails "Ridgeback" rails is because of the way we dado the backs of the rails, leaving a ridge down the center of the backs of the rails flush to the top and bottoms of the rails. The purpose of this ridge is to prevent the rails from being cracked if over tightened when being installed. If you take a look at the entrance of the T-nut, you'll see that it has been flanged so that it can't be pushed back through the rail when pushing the rail bolt into it. I actually installed a bolt in the T-nut, stood the rail on the bolt, then stood on the rail with my 265lbs and it still wouldn't push through the rail bolt hole, good enough for me...LOL Also, the T-nuts we use are not threaded for the first 1/4" which allows for proper alignment of the rail bolt to the T-nut before threading, which means it's very very hard to cross thread the rail bolt when attaching our rails to the table. In fact, cutting away any overlapping cloth in order to make room to thread the rail bolt is not needed with our rails.
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The rails are a perfect fit to the table. And, the point of the cushions are at the perfect height of 1 7/16" from the playing surface.
I've been building rails for bar tables for the last 25 years, and just recently decided to go public with them because my partner Kerry pushed me into it...LOL...so, here you go, they're going to be available Feb 1st for distribution.
Retail is $225.00 a set. Wholesale, you're going to have to call me for pricing, as I don't really want to see to anyone that is NOT a billiards technician or a vending company. I strongly believe that these rails belong in the hands of the people that are going to be doing the work, and not the end users. So, on that note, no one is ever going to show up at a bar to recover a coin-op table, and the bar owner is going to say..."Here, I bought these rails, I want you to put them on my table" and you don't get a dime out if it!
If you've ever wanted to have a say about something in our line of work, now is the time to step up to the plate guys!
Call me at 702-927-5689 to place your orders anytime, 24/7 but before you can place an order for rails, I need some information from you that will go into my "Billiards Technician or Vending Company" files before you order.
Glen
PS. Valley 8fts, Dynamo 7 & 8fts, and Global 7 & 8fts will be following the release date of these rails shortly, I'll post the information on them rails as soon as they're ready for production.
I've been building rails for bar tables for the last 25 years, and just recently decided to go public with them because my partner Kerry pushed me into it...LOL...so, here you go, they're going to be available Feb 1st for distribution.
Retail is $225.00 a set. Wholesale, you're going to have to call me for pricing, as I don't really want to see to anyone that is NOT a billiards technician or a vending company. I strongly believe that these rails belong in the hands of the people that are going to be doing the work, and not the end users. So, on that note, no one is ever going to show up at a bar to recover a coin-op table, and the bar owner is going to say..."Here, I bought these rails, I want you to put them on my table" and you don't get a dime out if it!
If you've ever wanted to have a say about something in our line of work, now is the time to step up to the plate guys!
Call me at 702-927-5689 to place your orders anytime, 24/7 but before you can place an order for rails, I need some information from you that will go into my "Billiards Technician or Vending Company" files before you order.
Glen
PS. Valley 8fts, Dynamo 7 & 8fts, and Global 7 & 8fts will be following the release date of these rails shortly, I'll post the information on them rails as soon as they're ready for production.
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what angles are you cutting the corners and side pockets?
Same as factory, I can't re-invent the Valley rails, just build them better. I really have no choice but to match the factory specifications because if a bar owner bought one set of rails to have installed on one out of four tables there, they have to match the other three tables in pocket openings, or there's going to be a lot of *****ing going on.sdbilliards said:
Glen
I like them looks like they are a real upgrade for any coin op table. First thing I noticed was the ridge and dato relief before I read the post on what was different or what was upgraded. Very nice reengineering on your behalf.
Only question I have I figured you would use neopreme facing instead of standard rubber, would the neopreme not hold up to the abuse as much on a coin op from all the ball bangers?
Thanks for the picture's,
Craig
Only question I have I figured you would use neopreme facing instead of standard rubber, would the neopreme not hold up to the abuse as much on a coin op from all the ball bangers?
Thanks for the picture's,
Craig
Craig, the facings are actually made of neoprene, it's just that there's also two layers of cotton cloth to help strengthen and give more support to the neoprene facings. The pocket angles on a bar table are quite a bit different than the angles found on home style tables or commercial tables in pool rooms. The facings on the bar tables don't take anywhere near the beatings as compared to say a Brunswick GC or a Diamond. The shallow slate shelfs on bar tables also help slow down the wear and tear on the pocket facings as well. But, unlike the normal facings found on bar table rails, these facings won't get hard and crumble, or fall apart down the road.n10spool said:
Glen
Awesome Glen! I wish I had the dang market here for a few sets. Vendors have a lock on the majority of the accounts 
Robin
Robin
Don"t let that stop you from finding the ones they don't own...lolTheTablePro said:Awesome Glen! I wish I had the dang market here for a few sets. Vendors have a lock on the majority of the accounts
Robin
Glen
Any Vendors interested in purchasing these rails you can contact me direct at 702.927-5689
Glen
Glen
Just a reminder guys, if you need Valley, Dynamo, or Global coin-op rails, I'm here to support you, just let me know.
Glen
Glen
Glen, might these rails take some of the "Valley thump" out of my table? My bar box has seen very little use but the rail action is pathetic.
Thanks
Courtney
WWFD?
Thanks
Courtney
WWFD?
That thump, as you refer to, is characteristic of most Valley rails, in how they're designed, make of the cushions, and how well they're bolted down.desmocourtney said:
I can bank the cue ball 9 rails on a Valley 8ft table with our rails, try that on a Valley 8ft sometime
The 7ft Valley replacement rails we designed and build, play the same way. Not only having been a billiards technician for the last 25 years, I've also been playing pool since about 1968. I've played on thousands of tables in my lifetime. When I got out of the Army and went back home to Washington state, I was in for a real shock, we only had one pool hall in the Seattle area, the 211 Club, so I had to learn to become a bar table player, what a change to someone that never played on bar tables except in Germany, and that was only to play last pocket 8 ball for money, playing against the Germans. I hated playing on bar tables in Washington state, because they played so badly. It was in 1983 that I decided to do something about that, so I started my billiards career working on bar tables in the hopes of making a difference, and over the next 12 years, I did. I made them play better, faster, and more consistent than ever before, and I did that by installing better cloths on the tables, and throwing away the factory rails the tables came with, and introducing my own line of cushions for bar tables, and all I can say is, what a change it's made. If I had to make a bet, I'd have to bet on Western Washington state having the best bar tables to play on in this whole country. I guarantee you, we have some of the best bar table billiards technicians in the country as well I say that, because I HAVE traveled all over the country, and seen the condition of bar tables everywhere else. So, to make a longer story short, yes, the Ridge Back rails would for sure, improve the play of your Valley table
Glen
Bump to the top.
Seems like this should have been bumped a long time ago...Nothin like going back thru the archives.