In more than one blind test shooters have been unable to identify a cue by its joint type. As stated above a lot of factors other than joint type are responsible for the way a cue hits.Type of pin used in a cue joint is not the sole determining factor in how a cue will feel in terms of the "hit" You need to look at the butt joint materials- is it wood only, metal, ivory, implex (artificial materials), etc. - is it flat faced or piloted, what woods are used in the butt construction, what is the butt design ( points or solid wood) - now for the shaft- material? shaft taper- stiff to flexed- Ferrule ( ivory, plastics, etc.) and the tip ( very hard to very soft) -- also overall cue balance -
Bottom line is that you have to play with the cue to determine the answer to your question, any other answer is just guessing.
And the type of tip can have far more effect than the joint assuming the joint is solid.In more than one blind test shooters have been unable to identify a cue by its joint type. As stated above a lot of factors other than joint type are responsible for the way a cue hits.
The softer the cue tip- the more you will actually "feel" the rest of the cue construction factors in regards to the hit. Stands to reason, a very hard tip will tend to block or mask the rest of the cue behind it; due to the density/hardness factor. Some cues continue to hit relatively stiff, even with a softer tip, because THAT is the true feedback from the entire cue - if the cue construction lends itself to a stiff hit in and by itself.And the type of tip can have far more effect than the joint assuming the joint is solid.
Everything you mentioned is true. That said, the "feel" of the tip used is the biggest factor on how a cue "feels" to the end user. Two different tips on the same cue with all the same factors will feel completely different to the same player.Type of pin used in a cue joint is not the sole determining factor in how a cue will feel in terms of the "hit" You need to look at the butt joint materials- is it wood only, metal, ivory, implex (artificial materials), etc. - is it flat faced or piloted, what woods are used in the butt construction, what is the butt design ( points or solid wood) - now for the shaft- material? shaft taper- stiff to flexed- Ferrule ( ivory, plastics, etc.) and the tip ( very hard to very soft) -- also overall cue balance -
Bottom line is that you have to play with the cue to determine the answer to your question, any other answer is just guessing.
The softer the cue tip- or in some cases, the more you will actually "feel" the rest of the cue construction factors in regards to the hit. Stands to reason, a very hard tip will tend to block or mask the rest of the cue behind it; due to the density/hardness factor. Some cues continue to hit relatively stiff, even with a softer tip, because THAT is the true feedback from the entire cue - if the cue construction lends itself to a stiff hit in and by itself.
Therefore, I always recommend that when assessing how a cue plays- one should begin with a softer tip - it is much easier to adjust upward from there in terms of hardness to get the cue "tuned" to how one desires it to play. Start by choosing a softer tip from a tip brand that you also like for it's other factors - holding its shape, transferring spin, holding chalk, etc.
You may end up with a order tip on your cue, BC that is just what works for you with that particular cue.
Is that a proven theory I can read about somewhere? In my experience, the softer the tip the less I "feel" the cue as the tip soaks up the vibrations. This is why the more I learn about cues and types of woods I actually prefer a harder tip.
The speed of that shock wave is about 13,000 feet per second (speed of sound along the fiber in maple), so in fact it can make a couple of round trips in 2 milliseconds.... Besides the CB leaves the tip within 2 milliseconds which is before the shock wave of the tip-CB impact gets 6" down the length of the shaft.
...
Folks- I am not talking about my preference in cue tip hardness. The impact for the cue begins at the tip, and the feel of a cue is how it feels in your hands during the "hit" So the transfer from the cue ball to the cue tip to your hands will definitely be more absorbed by a softer tip- it is less dense than a harder tip.Is that a proven theory I can read about somewhere? In my experience, the softer the tip the less I "feel" the cue as the tip soaks up the vibrations. This is why the more I learn about cues and types of woods I actually prefer a harder tip.
That is badass billiard brains, bob.The speed of that shock wave is about 13,000 feet per second (speed of sound along the fiber in maple), so in fact it can make a couple of round trips in 2 milliseconds.
That's for the longitudinal (along the length) wave. The transverse (or wiggle) wave is much slower. That's the vibration you see if you whack the side of the stick to get the tip to wiggle back and forth. That speed is something around the length of the cue in 40 milliseconds. I think both waves contribute to the overall feel of the hit.
"You wanna know why i dogged that damn shot?? 'Cause of that f%^&*n' transverse wave. SOB gets me every time"That is badass billiard brains, bob.