Please help me with setup ideas for powerfeed and motor choice for lathe build

cueporn

cueporn

Banned
I am looking to buy items to complete a 48 inch bed big bore headstock lathe I am putting together. It will have a full rack so a carriage can travel along and perform tapering with a small laminate router using a screw feed power feed. I have ghe specialized spring carriage, taperbar, Unique router mount with dial adjustment.
I have most everything I need now , thanks to all who helped me.

What I need help with is powerfeed connections and layout. Please post photos of your work here to share.

Lastly I need advice on motor selection. So please give your so opinion on which are best.

Thanks
 
power feed

The design and the trial and error has already been done. You need to get a close look at a hightower deluxe. It is simple and works very well.

There is no rule that says that you can't copy what someone else has done for personal use. If you try to sell it as your own..... well you are unethical.

My personal suggestion is beg, borrow, steal, sell everything you can, get a job and buy the hightower deluxe. After you get one, there is nothing else to buy.

Kim
 
I have been thinking about buying the Taig retro kit and changing out for a longer screw myself. Maybe a bearing or support out of delrin or so around the first foot of unused travel area would help. Looks like you could prob get it to work. Your going to need an independent motor and I would figure out a way to get around having to hold the hand wheel to make it run. Good luck, let us know what you end up doing.
 
There is a lot of information about powerfeeds and specialized products from Thomson. That said they are not cheap solutions. I have a Acme screw coming and will mount it with an inline motor, there are lots from Dayton.
I will power the motor with a Tattoo power source control with a 3-12 volt smooth adjustment variable speed (no clicking into different speeds)it should work well, just trying to figure how fast the carriage will travel. If the screw is 12 tpi and the motor turned at 100 rpm that is about 8 inches in a minute, seems about right. A 30 inch pass would take about 4 minutes. Maybe I need a little faster. I had a pinion driven feed that engaged the rack and it seemed to take 5 minutes to travel down the length of a cue, and get a clean cut. Any faster wasn't great results. I never had a 6 blade bit, they must be alot better that a standard 2 sided bit. I have a feed nut coming that I will mount to a bracket. Another bracket will face up to the leadscrew one and be joined with a couple threaded knobs. This way the bracket can be run down to the far end when not tapering and the normal carraige knob used to move it. I may add in a length of 8020 aluminum slotted square stock with a linear bearing for the leadscrew bracket to ride in. It may lend stability and keep the travel inline. They provide minimal resistance, and 8020 will not flex. Then again the screw is sturdy enough not to flex much over a 36-40 inch run.

Please post photos of your designs, let me know what motor chices are best for this type of setup. Shouldn't need a ton of power, to move the bit through the work.

For a motor I want it to be adjustible speed and revisible. I dont want a Marathon mutliple pully speed adjustment type setup. I want to mount the motor on the headstock, so it's easy to slide it around the bed.I think 1/2 hp is required for a tapering cuebuilding lathe. I really don't want to have trouble wth boring with a 1/3. So he Penn State 1/2 is agreat price at $110 with control box, it lacks a reverse swith, but easy to add. I see a nice little machine shop motor that is 1/3 hp, has a control box with variable speed and reverse. I have been told the control box is superior to the Penn State. I found a jet lathe motor pretty pricy, bigger 3/4 and 1 HP motors, but no controls. Leaning towards the ease of the Penn State, 1/2 hp and inexpensive, if there were issues I could swap it out, they are widely available.

If you have opinions on motors or suggestions on different ones to consider please let me know.

I have some nice components coming, now I have to power this monster and set up the controls so everything works together well.
 
BigDon said:
I have been thinking about buying the Taig retro kit and changing out for a longer screw myself. Maybe a bearing or support out of delrin or so around the first foot of unused travel area would help. Looks like you could prob get it to work. Your going to need an independent motor and I would figure out a way to get around having to hold the hand wheel to make it run. Good luck, let us know what you end up doing.
Click to expand...

I will mount the powerfeed bracket to the back of the carriage, using the t slot on the bottom back edge. Make a vertical faceplate that the leadscrew bracket face can be attached to with knobbed screws. That way it can be disconected for normal hand wheel use. I think the Taig powerfeed is not going to be strong enough for the task, plus my leadscrew won't be near the location they have it in. There is a speed reduction gearing in the taig pewefeed thattakes the fast spinning lathe and slows down the leadscrew rotation. It is an ingennious design, but probably not up to the task of moving this setup. I do have one of their setups coming and could try it with a fast belt drive motor, but I dont want a belt and pulley ststem. 'd rather attach a small motor shaft directly in line with the feedscrew.
 
Last edited:
cueporn said:
I am looking to buy items to complete a 48 inch bed big bore headstock lathe I am putting together. It will have a full rack so a carriage can travel along and perform tapering with a small laminate router using a screw feed power feed. I have ghe specialized spring carriage, taperbar, Unique router mount with dial adjustment.
I have most everything I need now , thanks to all who helped me.

What I need help with is powerfeed connections and layout. Please post photos of your work here to share.

Lastly I need advice on motor selection. So please give your so opinion on which are best.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Dude,

From what I see, you have come in here asking everyone to give you the fruits of their own trials and errors, but you haven't contributed anything ever.
Everything you have asked has been covered over the last 2-3 years here - yet I see no evidence that you have even tried using the search function to do research on your own.
And finally, you don't even sign your posts with your name.

FWIW and IMHO, that is not a successful way to participate in this forum

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
cueporn said:
There is a lot of information about powerfeeds and specialized products from Thomson. That said they are not cheap solutions. I have a Acme screw coming and will mount it with an inline motor, there are lots from Dayton.
I will power the motor with a Tattoo power source control with a 3-12 volt smooth adjustment variable speed (no clicking into different speeds)it should work well, just trying to figure how fast the carriage will travel. If the screw is 12 tpi and the motor turned at 100 rpm that is about 8 inches in a minute, seems about right. A 30 inch pass would take about 4 minutes. Maybe I need a little faster. I had a pinion driven feed that engaged the rack and it seemed to take 5 minutes to travel down the length of a cue, and get a clean cut. Any faster wasn't great results. I never had a 6 blade bit, they must be alot better that a standard 2 sided bit. I have a feed nut coming that I will mount to a bracket. Another bracket will face up to the leadscrew one and be joined with a couple threaded knobs. This way the bracket can be run down to the far end when not tapering and the normal carraige knob used to move it. I may add in a length of 8020 aluminum slotted square stock with a linear bearing for the leadscrew bracket to ride in. It may lend stability and keep the travel inline. They provide minimal resistance, and 8020 will not flex. Then again the screw is sturdy enough not to flex much over a 36-40 inch run.

Please post photos of your designs, let me know what motor chices are best for this type of setup. Shouldn't need a ton of power, to move the bit through the work.

For a motor I want it to be adjustible speed and revisible. I dont want a Marathon mutliple pully speed adjustment type setup. I want to mount the motor on the headstock, so it's easy to slide it around the bed.I think 1/2 hp is required for a tapering cuebuilding lathe. I really don't want to have trouble wth boring with a 1/3. So he Penn State 1/2 is agreat price at $110 with control box, it lacks a reverse swith, but easy to add. I see a nice little machine shop motor that is 1/3 hp, has a control box with variable speed and reverse. I have been told the control box is superior to the Penn State. I found a jet lathe motor pretty pricy, bigger 3/4 and 1 HP motors, but no controls. Leaning towards the ease of the Penn State, 1/2 hp and inexpensive, if there were issues I could swap it out, they are widely available.

If you have opinions on motors or suggestions on different ones to consider please let me know.

I have some nice components coming, now I have to power this monster and set up the controls so everything works together well.
Click to expand...

Buy an AC motor and a single to 3 phase inverter . They can run from aprox from 2 hz to 120 hz, but I don't recommend running the motor at twice it rated rpm. If you are running lower than 20 hz approx 1/3 motor rpm for any length of time an auxiliary fan motor is advised.
Not the cheapest initial solution, but gives you a great amount of control on the acceleration and deceleration especially when going into reverse.Mine have got a breaking circuits in them.
Saying that, I am getting a big bore Headstock assembly with the DC motor from Bassel for my basic repair station.It has the foot peddle which I like for speed control already figured out so I don't have to invent something.
But for screw cutting etc, the 3 phase is just the nuts.
 
GBCues said:
Dude,

From what I see, you have come in here asking everyone to give you the fruits of their own trials and errors, but you haven't contributed anything ever.
Everything you have asked has been covered over the last 2-3 years here - yet I see no evidence that you have even tried using the search function to do research on your own.
And finally, you don't even sign your posts with your name.

FWIW and IMHO, that is not a successful way to participate in this forum

My 2 cents,

Gary
Click to expand...
I think you mistake the nature of my posts. I am trying to get this right the first time and hoping to learn from others experiences.
If you choose not to contribute that is fine, no need to be upset with my looking for information from those who are. Brian.
 
cueporn said:
I think you mistake the nature of my posts. I am trying to get this right the first time and hoping to learn from others experiences.
If you choose not to contribute that is fine, no need to be upset with my looking for information from those who are. Brian.
Click to expand...

You will be much better off trying your own ideas and seeing if they work. If you can't figure out a simple motor to drive your carriage, then you will have a helluva time trying to figure out angles and calculations when it comes to set up tapers and other processes that require precision. I made my lathe carriage power fed with a simple DC motor from ebay, and I bought all the stuff needed to do it from ebay. Go forth and search the bay now! Lol. Good luck man.

Joe
 
snipershot said:
You will be much better off trying your own ideas and seeing if they work. If you can't figure out a simple motor to drive your carriage, then you will have a helluva time trying to figure out angles and calculations when it comes to set up tapers and other processes that require precision. I made my lathe carriage power fed with a simple DC motor from ebay, and I bought all the stuff needed to do it from ebay. Go forth and search the bay now! Lol. Good luck man.

Joe
Click to expand...

I heard you have this on yours.
http://www.servoproductsco.com/html/power_feeds.html
I couldn't afford the servo so I opted for the cheaper version.
http://www.bestlinepro.com/prod01.htm
 
thanks

Thanks for the links.
Pretty much done. Just waiting on the postman.
I went with a penn state 1/2 hp with variable speed. Will add a reverse switch with my fathers help.
I will post the finished product in a few weeks.
 
morestuff007.jpg


KB makes a nice controller (top right)
Check them out online
I have a PennState plug for motor but only a dpdt switch for forward and reverse. They make a switch with brake but it was kind of expensive
 
taigstuff001.jpg


I dont have anymore laying around but this is what you need for a fwd/rev switch to plug in between your motor and controller
 
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