Pocket Size? Opinions Please

Whatever you do, make sure the side pockets don't get so tight that they start cutting down the possible angles that you can make the ball. You should be able to make a ball in the side pocket with a little room to spare up to the second diamond on the foot rail. See below:

CueTable Help



Personally, I don't think 14.1 is very fun on such a tight table. The game is totally different on a table that tight - I would be concerned about learning habits that don't translate as well to looser tables.

And for me, 9/10 ball isn't as much fun on that table either since I end up cinching a lot of balls, instead of playing the correct shot with english or speed.

I have found that the way the pockets are cut makes a big difference, so just the pocket measurement isn't enough information - those rare tight tables that don't reject balls at speed are a lot more fun to play on. The triple shimmed brunswick at my local room forces you to learn not to hit balls hard since they'll often be rejected.

but if you enjoy it that way - go for it!
 
rail shots

patrickcues said:
We used to play 9 ball on the 5x10 snooker table. That was just a little tough. 4.5" pockets is what I would use.
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I recently worked out on a snooker table with pool balls rather than snooker balls. It was a great workout, but rail shots were almost impossible.

Did you have problems with rail shots?
 
manwon said:
In my opinion, I would not go beyond 4 1/2 inch corner pockets, and 4 3/4 side pockets. If you do you have taken the game to level where some shots can no longer be made, and why have a table that you can no longer play all games on.

Just my thoughts
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I agree. There are a lot of subtleties that are taken away from the game by making the pockets so tight. I think it's a waste of time playing on a table like that. We have a table like that here at the place where I play and I never play on it. I'll practice pocketing balls there from time to time but for playing, no thanks. I have no interest in having to hit center pocket every time.
MULLY
not to mention I usually only play straight pool
 
StevenPWaldon said:
I think the way Ernesto does the table at Hollywood Billiards is perfect. Yes, 4" is tight but a shot hit well will always drop. I play on much tighter equipment in NYC, and even then you can still run out if you play well enough.

If you like the table at Hollywood, have your table set up the same way. It's as simple as that. You can't go wrong with a tight table, because you can play any game on it (just imagine playing 1-pocket on a bucket... a nightmare!). If you need a super huge pocket to play 14.1 (where most shots aren't that hard to begin with, if you move well enough), then I suggest you PRACTICE. Thorsten managed a 150-and-out on tough Diamonds at this year's 14.1 WCs. The good players don't make excuses, they run out!
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And the Diamond Thorsten played on had 4 1/2" corner pockets, with 5" side pockets:)

Glen
 
I like more parallel facings. But all pockets will generally play more true the smaller they are. As the facings get closer to the middle of the pocket, the slate drop is wider by percentage so balls hitting in the jaws are more likely to drop, as they should. A wide mouth gold crown will sometimes reject a ball that hits close to the point that would go in the same pocket shimmed smaller.

My sides are about 4 and 1/8 and corners about 3 7/8, but more parallel than a diamond or GC. You can still scratch in the side from the first diamond on the bottom rail on the same side. I play the same way on this table as on big pockets. There is no incentive to slow roll balls, as it makes little difference. Balls hit with speed down rails are no problem with correctly cut pockets even below 4 inches.

For straight pool it is much harder to play straight in stop shot position. And side pocket shots from around the rack area become challenging, but again speed is not much of a factor. More pockets get blocked and combinations are tough. But the main issue is often simple cuts in front of the corners because you can't cheat them much to kill your cueball and maintain easy position.

Straight pool runs are probably worth near double compared to a normal bucket table, imo. I just look at it as saving time.

I've made 5 balls on the break playing 10 and 12 ball more times than I could count, the rack makes much more difference than pocket size for breaking, and I usually have a perfect rack using the Rack-m-Rite template.

Tight pockets are good for very good players. You can't play good position without hitting the shot to the right spot anyway.

Like you said, you are either in stroke on a table like this or not. When you are off and out of line and or the table is a little damp and dirty, 6-ball ghost can be a challenge even if you are capable of playing 10 to 12 ball speed on the same table.
 
realkingcobra said:
And the Diamond Thorsten played on had 4 1/2" corner pockets, with 5" side pockets:)

Glen
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So on my table my high of 84, and my high swapping hands every shot of 72, and my high weak handed of 56 in the rain without really having walls and air conditioning are not that bad I guess. (trying to convince myself I can play straight pool with the big boys like I drill em in 10 ball, since I came late to this great game)
 
How or what?

I think how you tighten them should have more of an affect on your decision. Are you going to extend the subrails and install longer cushions or simply have them shimmed?

How you measure also comes into play. Center of 2 balls touching opposing point and each other is what I consider 4 1/2 inch pockets. Some measure differently.

Happy shooting!

Ray
(9ft ProAm 4.5 corners, 5"sides):D
 
if you play with 2 3/8" pockets .. then you still have a margin for error... so all the shots should go.....


until you frustrate yourself to the point that the swat team has to bring you out of the clock tower :eek:

seriously.. 4 1/2" pockets are loose enough to let you play all games effectively.. and tight enough not to make any game overly easy... if it's a dedicated 1 pocket table .. maybe 4 1/4" but to play anything else.. you have to have a little "cheat" in the pocket.. to play decent shape..and run some balls..
 
You know this thread makes me realize how bizarre it is that Pool has been around for so long without ever achieving any kind of standardization of the most central equipment used like the table. Almost everything is variable, from the pocket size and angle of cut, to the rails, the height above the floor, the weight of the balls, the nap of the cloth (or lack thereof.)
 
AuntyDan said:
You know this thread makes me realize how bizarre it is that Pool has been around for so long without ever achieving any kind of standardization of the most central equipment used like the table. Almost everything is variable, from the pocket size and angle of cut, to the rails, the height above the floor, the weight of the balls, the nap of the cloth (or lack thereof.)
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Which could be a contributing factor in pool's lack of popularity. I know that even as much as I love shooting pool, if the standard was to be on really tight shimmed pockets I probably wouldn't play as much. I just don't like them and avoid places that do that. Slow cloth gets under my tits too.
MULLY
 
part of the factor though... even if you could control all the dimensions and specify "ONE" brand of cloth... the tables would still play different...

Simonis 860.... in Minnesota in February when we haven't seen temps above zero for a couple months... compared with Atlanta in late July after a few days of rain..

the same exact table... two different places...completely different results..

pool tables are like golf courses....you have to play your best with what you got to work with..
 
atthecat said:
You don't think it's good to practice on 4 inch pockets for everything? When I play on regular size pockets after playing on the 4 inch, I can't miss!
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Eddie Robin gave me this advice... and that is not to practice on a table where I'm not hitting the spot shot a high percentage of the time(around 80%)... as shooting on a table with too tight pockets will hamper your development...

The realkingcobra had it right when he was talking about 14.1 shots that just aren't going to work on 4" pockets, so your denying yourself the ability to learn certain shots.... plus your messing with your shot selection, as there shots you aren't going to shoot on a 4" table that you might shoot on one with larger pockets.
 
4.5 or less????????

thedude said:
Eddie Robin gave me this advice... and that is not to practice on a table where I'm not hitting the spot shot a high percentage of the time(around 80%)... as shooting on a table with too tight pockets will hamper your development...

The realkingcobra had it right when he was talking about 14.1 shots that just aren't going to work on 4" pockets, so your denying yourself the ability to learn certain shots.... plus your messing with your shot selection, as there shots you aren't going to shoot on a 4" table that you might shoot on one with larger pockets.
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I am pretty much in agreement with thedude and others who think going much below 4.5 would be in general not a good thing. I have just finished my table and have 4.5 corners and 5 inch sides. I am basically very happy with how the pockets play. I did this to also aid in the devolopement of my game. However, here are some observations:

My ability to pocket balls was not hampered a noticable amount. So, why did I reduce the pocket size?

With 5 "inch side pockets making shots at tough angles is much much more difficult. These are about the size of the pockets on the 8 foot coin ops in my area.

Playing the corners with pocket cheating, english, etc. is less successful.

So, I am concermed about my confidence on these shots.

The tables I play on at the pool hall are GC3s. Playing pool is not all about ball pocketing skills. It is also about knowing the nuances. The nuances of different equipment, different tables. The nuances of different shots on different tables.

What you are about to do is fairly permanent and you will lose your confidence in being able to pocket balls using the kind of english professionals use. My suggestion if you want to work on just ball pocketing is to use the Pocket Pro pocket reducers like I have. These probably get my pockets down to about 3 1/8" and are also ball rejection devices if you are not between the gates. They are also easily removable for when you are done being a masochist.

If you are going to reduce the size of your pockets I would also highly suggest you do this by replacing cushions and extending the subrails. You will not be happy with stacked or thick shims especially when bouncing a ball near the side pocket and don't believe your pockets will play right. Just my thoughts here....

Good luck with your table
Noah
 
I think the Diamonds with the 4.5" pockets play perfectly for 9-ball, 10-ball, and straight pool. IMO, the front tables at Family Billiards in San Francisco (which I think were also set up by Ernesto) are about as tight as you would want them for games like 9-ball and 10-ball, and a bit too tight for my liking at 14.1. I'm not sure, but I think those pockets are either 4" or 4.25"; you can still run a ball down the rail, but it requires a near-perfect hit if you put any speed at all on it. I would think that pockets that size would make some of the more common 14.1 break shots nearly impossible. Great for 1p, though.

Good rolls,

Aaron
 
softshot said:
part of the factor though... even if you could control all the dimensions and specify "ONE" brand of cloth... the tables would still play different...

Simonis 860.... in Minnesota in February when we haven't seen temps above zero for a couple months... compared with Atlanta in late July after a few days of rain..

the same exact table... two different places...completely different results..

pool tables are like golf courses....you have to play your best with what you got to work with..
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But at least all golf courses have the same size holes....
 
AuntyDan said:
Whilst it is challenging to play on 4" pockets IMHO you are learning to play a different game than normal Pool as everyone else plays it. You risk being like Snooker players when they initially play Pool. They may be extremely accurate at shot-making but can't play the whole game, which requires using all of the pocket, effectively enough to compete with Pool players.

I don't think that anything smaller than 4 7/16" (A hair under two ball widths) is appropriate for a 9' Pool table.
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Wishful thinking, but simply NOT TRUE.

edited to add: you play the table, some give you more, some give you less. Work with what you have.
 
Last edited:
Poolhustler...I will put 4 inch pockets on YOUR table. I can't wait to get it set up.
I've never played on an Anniversary with 4 inch pockets. Right now they are huge.
 
atthecat said:
Poolhustler...I will put 4 inch pockets on YOUR table. I can't wait to get it set up.
I've never played on an Anniversary with 4 inch pockets. Right now they are huge.
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Thank you Sir !!!!!!!!
 
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