Poll: Most important physical aspect of a cue?

Playability preference

  • Overall weight

    Votes: 4 6.7%
  • Type of joint

    Votes: 4 6.7%
  • Balance point

    Votes: 25 41.7%
  • Wrap or wrapless

    Votes: 1 1.7%
  • Choice of wood

    Votes: 2 3.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 24 40.0%

  • Total voters
    60

Impact Blue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Playability wise, I'm finding that I'm (more) sensitive to the balance point of a cue, over a lot of many factors. Either that or I'm just crazy about it for the time being. What's the consensus?

edit: I omitted shaft stuff because I think it's not a deal breaker when buying a cue...unless you're collecting, I suppose. And becuase it's easily manipulated or can be purchased separate in lieu of preference.

If you chose other, please explain. Maybe I could add on to my eccentricities...lol
 
Last edited:
I voted for balance point.
I think that you missed a very important factors and that's the shaft (construction / taper) and the tip.
 
there's more than 1

I will say I took some wenge,bacote,east indian rosewood- I put 3/8-10 brass and stainless pins ,wood to wood joints nothing else on the oversized flinstone looking butts. I screwed on b-model mcdermott shafts,with the origonal agis 2 ferrules and tips. They have quality I have been changing ferrules and tips around on some 15 b-model shafts, even replacing an insert with pink Ivory. I just tryed out the wenge,I played 27 straight hrs. I refused to quit because the cues played that good. I played snooker ,15 ball banks and 1-pocket on a 5-10 foot brunswick snooker table. had music, rum and lots of fun. mark
 
I chose other.. the most important factor is pivot point... the average player has a 9(ish) inch bridge.. there is a range but that is the most common.. from what I have learned...


so my question to cue makers would be if that is the most common bridge... why should you need a custom cue to attain that pivot point?.. if 9 inches is the average.... then shouldn't all cues be made with a 9 inch pivot as the base design?

and only changed by request..
 
Impact Blue said:
Playability wise, I'm finding that I'm (more) sensitive to the balance point of a cue, over a lot of many factors. Either that or I'm just crazy about it for the time being. What's the consensus?

edit: I omitted shaft stuff because I think it's not a deal breaker when buying a cue...unless you're collecting, I suppose. And becuase it's easily manipulated or can be purchased separate in lieu of preference.

If you chose other, please explain. Maybe I could add on to my eccentricities...lol

Playability wise I have to agree that balance is a very important factor that will differ from cue to cue. However, everything above will have not only an effect on balance, but also a cues hit. The handle woods used, the type of joint used, and the cues over all construction will certainly effect a cues hit. If you want a stiffer hit, a harder wood such as Ebony, or Purple Heart in combination with a steel or brass joint may used. If you want a softer it, Maple, Mahogany, even some Rosewoods would be good. Or the same can be accomplished if the cue has a softer wood as a veneer, and harder wood as the woods core. This is also done when you are considering weight and the cues balance point.

Another major fact is the cues and the shafts taper, this will also greatly effect how energy is transmitted. Last the cues ferrule material will also have a major effect on the cues hit, like I mentioned above the harder the material the harder the hit.

Hope this helps!
 
Ahhhhhhhh......

HollyWood said:
I played 27 straight hrs.

I played snooker ,15 ball banks and 1-pocket on a 5-10 foot brunswick snooker table. had music, rum and lots of fun.

Gosh . . . for a second there I thought you were living out my wildest dream . . . that heaven does exist and you were in it . . . what else could one want? Except maybe playin' sets against this guy . . .
 

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DeepBanks said:
Gosh . . . for a second there I thought you were living out my wildest dream . . . that heaven does exist and you were in it . . . what else could one want? Except maybe playin' sets against this guy . . .


that is a small box Miz is standing over or he was 8 feet tall back then
 
I put other. The next time a road player or a very good player trying to stay under the radar comes to your room, watch what he looks for first when he takes a house-cue down...it will be the tip. Johnnyt
 
Johnnyt said:
I put other. The next time a road player or a very good player trying to stay under the radar comes to your room, watch what he looks for first when he takes a house-cue down...it will be the tip. Johnnyt

Good point, but there not much else to look at on a house cue yes?
Also have to say that were talking about the cue.. not the shaft or anything attached.
 
"Other" gets my vote as well -- as in the tip.

Also...
softshot said:
I chose other.. the most important factor is pivot point... the average player has a 9(ish) inch bridge.. there is a range but that is the most common.. from what I have learned...
What is meant by "pivot point"..?
 
The tip is most important to me.

I'd rather play with a junk cue with a new tip over a Szamboti with a crappy tip. That's just my opinion.
 
cuebux said:
Good point, but there not much else to look at on a house cue yes?
Also have to say that were talking about the cue.. not the shaft or anything attached.

The way I read the pole question is "the cue" the tip is part of the cue, is it not? I think you just hate simple answers:smile: . Johnnyt
 
I voted OTHER....

I think the harmonic vibration of the cue is most important. That is the result of the wood, joint, tip, and balance point. The harmonic of a cue is the result of a lot of variables. It's the feedback.

That's why I like my Lambros. It has a certain vibration, like a tuning fork, that makes me like it.
 
SpiderWebComm said:
I voted OTHER....

I think the harmonic vibration of the cue is most important. That is the result of the wood, joint, tip, and balance point. The harmonic of a cue is the result of a lot of variables. It's the feedback.

That's why I like my Lambros. It has a certain vibration, like a tuning fork, that makes me like it.

Put an ajustable vibrator i the butt of any cue and can as harmomic as you like.:wink: Johnnyt
 
I like one that has a shaft with it. Preferably with a small piece of leather attached to the end of it.

Shaft taper, tip and ferrule, and joint pin are all equally important.
 
It's a well known fact that the number of animals sacrificed to the gods in the contruction of a cue equals the more the gods will smile on you later during a match. Therefore , more Ivory please. :)
 
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