Power Draw

Tennesseejoe said:
My power draw is not that powerful, but adequate for me. I would like to see how it compares to other members and the cue/tip combination they use. I shoot with a Predator Sneaky Pete 314 with a Kabouri(?) soft layered tip. This cue table example shows my test.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4AYDa4PUAJ1QYAA4kYAH4kYLI1kUng4kUIK4kTKL4kUQI@
Click to expand...


It depends on what kind of cloth is in the table that will determine if draw can be applied (as well as the cue ball; don't want to get one of those Barbox CBs.. that's for certain). If the table consist of nap cloth, then it won't travel as far. If the cloth is Simonis or Granito type, then that baby would fly. Another aspect about the draw is to go low on the CB with your tip as possible without miscueing and keep your forearm as loose as possible to give it a nice follow through. Keep the butt of the cue as low as possible without interfearance. BTW, don't drop the elbow.
 
The object and cue balls are Super Aramith Pro-Cup. The cloth is Simonis 860 which has been on a 9 foot home table for 1 year of light play.
 
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SlickRick_PCS said:
It depends on what kind of cloth is in the table that will determine if draw can be applied (as well as the cue ball; don't want to get one of those Barbox CBs.. that's for certain). If the table consist of nap cloth, then it won't travel as far.
Click to expand...

I have actually put some bad-a$$ power draw on 'ol whitey with a barbox cue ball. They are usually rougher than a corn cob (from abuse) and they will grab the hell out of the surface of the cloth. I have usually found the crappy, tore-up, in need of replacing cloth of the barbox is what is holding back a good power draw. An old, beat up barbox cue ball on good cloth will do wonders IMO!!!

Maniac
 
rep to Maniac, Yes the polish on the cue ball has significant affect as well as the nap on the cloth.
 
Tennesseejoe said:
My power draw is not that powerful, but adequate for me. I would like to see how it compares to other members and the cue/tip combination they use. I shoot with a Predator Sneaky Pete 314 with a Kabouri(?) soft layered tip. This cue table example shows my test.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4AYDa4PUAJ1QYAA4kYAH4kYLI1kUng4kUIK4kTKL4kUQI@
Click to expand...

The problem is we all don't play on the same equipment. Good clean balls and cloth makes some difference but the rails make the most difference. In your example the balls are close together so almost nothing is lost due to distance/friction. If your rails are good then your power draw sucks. :D ha ha ha JK but it does need some work. What kind of table and cushions?

Rod
 
Tennesseejoe said:
My power draw is not that powerful, but adequate for me. I would like to see how it compares to other members and the cue/tip combination they use.
Click to expand...

Here is a power draw shot I used to challenge my students with: The cue ball is one ball from the rail - so you are jacked up a bit. I would give them 5 tries from here, then move the ball to the first diamond to give them a little room for 5 more tries. This shot is doubly hard in that the slight angle of the 1 ball makes pocketing it very difficult. Oh, and drawing the length of the table for shape on the two is no gimme...

After they missed their 10 tries, I would shoot it with their cue. One of my student's shot with a Meucci that had a LePro. Even that worked.

CueTable Help



Here is the traditional "whammy" draw stroke that'll earn you some respect. Bottom right with a super stroke should get the job done. It helps to have fast cloth and good rails to pocket the 2-ball. With inferior equipment, you might only make it to the middle of the table off the third rail though.

CueTable Help


-td
 
td873 said:
Here is a power draw shot I used to challenge my students with: The cue ball is one ball from the rail - so you are jacked up a bit. I would give them 5 tries from here, then move the ball to the first diamond to give them a little room for 5 more tries. This shot is doubly hard in that the slight angle of the 1 ball makes pocketing it very difficult. Oh, and drawing the length of the table for shape on the two is no gimme...

After they missed their 10 tries, I would shoot it with their cue. One of my student's shot with a Meucci that had a LePro. Even that worked.

CueTable Help



Here is the traditional "whammy" draw stroke that'll earn you some respect. Bottom right with a super stroke should get the job done. It helps to have fast cloth and good rails to pocket the 2-ball. With inferior equipment, you might only make it to the middle of the table off the third rail though.

CueTable Help


-td
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply---those are very impressive shots.

I have three more questions, if you please:
1. What tip do you use?
2. How did you compare to the example in my first post?
3. What do you do to help your students improve and how much do they?
 
Tennesseejoe said:
Thanks for the reply---those are very impressive shots.

I have three more questions, if you please:
1. What tip do you use?
2. How did you compare to the example in my first post?
3. What do you do to help your students improve and how much do they?
Click to expand...

1) Currently I use a sniper. I also like Moori (M) and Talisman (M). But these shots are possible with virutally any tip - including LePro and Elkmaster. Curvature is almost a non-issue as well.

2) I would expect at leat another few feet of draw in your example with good equipment (and most likely all the way to the other end rail), as the cue ball is fairly close to the object ball resulting in minimal loss of rotation before contact. For example, I can get the cue ball to the end rail and about a diamond off with just a medium stroke. A hard stroke gets it to where you indicate. A power stroke gets a bit more distance.

3) The two biggest learning points are (a) proper fundamentals and (b) realizing where they are hitting the cue ball on contact. (a) is pretty self explanatory. As for (b), most people believe they are hitting the cue ball very low, when in fact, they are hitting less than 1 tip below center ball. I like to illustrate this with the Rempe training ball (the one with all the circles on it). You can clearly see a nice blue chalk mark where the tip contacts the ball. The eyes play tricks on you when you are down on the ball, making you think you are at the bottom of the cue ball, when in fact you have much more room on the verticle axis. Thus, hitting the cue ball lower, with the same "power" stroke, will ultimately result in more spin, and more draw.

-td
 
Rod said:
The problem is we all don't play on the same equipment. Good clean balls and cloth makes some difference but the rails make the most difference. In your example the balls are close together so almost nothing is lost due to distance/friction. If your rails are good then your power draw sucks. :D ha ha ha JK but it does need some work. What kind of table and cushions?

Rod
Click to expand...

I agree with Rod. Your example is clearly not a power draw shot, where the shots set up by the DFW poster (td873) clearly are. The OP example can be accomplished with a medium speed stroke, using any tip on any cue, provided you have a smooth stroke, and can hit the CB very low. All of this was detailed in the other posts.

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
imo, you shouldn't be learning stroke shots with a layered tip or laminated shaft, ever

develop your stroke with a basic cue shaft and le pro tip in decent condition
 
smashmouth said:
imo, you shouldn't be learning stroke shots with a layered tip or laminated shaft, ever
Click to expand...

Why on earth would you say that? I don't use either but you can use any tip or shaft. The only thing that matters is your comfortable with your equipment. That and the tip is well chalked and in good condition.

Rod
 
lol @ Rod

he is far from correct and is simply repeating misconceptions, pm
me if you wish and I'll give you a detailed explanation
 
smashmouth said:
lol @ Rod

he is far from correct and is simply repeating misconceptions, pm
me if you wish and I'll give you a detailed explanation
Click to expand...

Why don't you just post it here for everyone to see? I'm certainly curious as to why you think developing a stroke with a le pro is preferable.
 
because it is lengthy, and twits like Rod who post out of their ass for the sole purpose of discrediting me should not be entitled to the beneift of such an educated opinion

I dont't think a pm is an unreasonable request

why don't we just leave it at Rod's brilliant advice

"The only thing that matters is your comfortable with your equipment. That and the tip is well chalked and in good condition."

hmmm what a simpleton

What about the throngs of players who can impart much top spin and english using properly maintained equipment but still can't draw? How does his crappy advice address that? According to him as long as your comfortable and have a chalked and shaped tip right..........

lol
 
""The only thing that matters is your comfortable with your equipment. That and the tip is well chalked and in good condition."

I'm gonna have the local handicapped kids over and repeat the above statement so I can get a feel for what Rod sounds like
 
needs some work

Tennesseejoe said:
My power draw is not that powerful, but adequate for me. I would like to see how it compares to other members and the cue/tip combination they use. I shoot with a Predator Sneaky Pete 314 with a Kabouri(?) soft layered tip. This cue table example shows my test.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4AYDa4PUAJ1QYAA4kYAH4kYLI1kUng4kUIK4kTKL4kUQI@
Click to expand...
the shot you displayed is pretty easy, you should be able to at least get to the end rail on simonis, i play on pretty slow cloth(mercury ultra), and i'll get to the end rail and back out to the middle again, just get to the bottom of the ball, anyway keep at it all it takes is practice, of course that really serves no purpose in competition!
 
smashmouth said:
because it is lengthy, and twits like Rod who post out of their ass for the sole purpose of discrediting me should not be entitled to the beneift of such an educated opinion

I dont't think a pm is an unreasonable request

why don't we just leave it at Rod's brilliant advice

"The only thing that matters is your comfortable with your equipment. That and the tip is well chalked and in good condition."

hmmm what a simpleton

What about the throngs of players who can impart much top spin and english using properly maintained equipment but still can't draw? How does his crappy advice address that? According to him as long as your comfortable and have a chalked and shaped tip right..........

lol
Click to expand...

I wasn't trying to start anything. I just asked why would you make such a statement. Post it here, I'm real sure those with laminated shafts and layered tips would really like to know.

Rod
 
on a decent table with 860 my power draw would get it a little over another table length farther than yours, so back to the head, back down to the foot and back up to past mid table. I shoot mooris med and sniper med.
 
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