With a cut to the right, you line up center to edge to the left side of OB and referencing B or C with right edge of CB.. With a right to left pivot.. I believe JoeyA has it backwards!!
I agree with you pablocruz. I edited my post.
With a cut to the right, you line up center to edge to the left side of OB and referencing B or C with right edge of CB.. With a right to left pivot.. I believe JoeyA has it backwards!!
... While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed, shift your sight line, bring your cue into alignment as you drop straight into your stance, and pivot as described below: ...
With a cut to the right, you line up center to edge to the left side of OB and referencing B or C with right edge of CB.. With a right to left pivot.. I believe JoeyA has it backwards!!
Looks like a "mindo," Joey. The blue "left" and "right" should be reversed.
With a cut to the right, you line up center to edge to the left side of OB and referencing B or C with right edge of CB.. With a right to left pivot.. I believe JoeyA has it backwards!!
Dave: Here's the slightly longer version of this from your web site:
While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed (see the table below), shift your sight line from a given edge or point on the CB to a certain point on the OB. Then, guided by this line, drop straight into your stance, aligning the cue 1/2-tip off the CB's center. Then pivot the cue to the center of the CB with a fixed-bridge pivot.
Your descriptions of this seem, to me, a bit vague as to how to find the proper line for placement of the bridge. You seem to say one should shift his sight line off the CTEL to the secondary line (edge to A/B/C) and then, "guided by this line," somehow drop into the proper offset position.
The way I interpret what Stan says is that, essentially, one needs to find the sighting position where he can simultaneously view both the CTEL and the secondary alignment line (to A/B/C). This sighting position will be between those two alignment lines, and this sighting position will define the relevant edges of the cue ball and, therefore, the relevant face (now think of it as a flat disk) of the cue ball. From this sighting position, move straight in toward that cue-ball face (perpendicular to the flat disk) with the 1/2-tip offset needed.
Do you read what I am saying as any different from what you understood and wrote?
One more thing for now. A couple of the recommended bridge lengths you gave are different from what Stan has in his Glossary. Any reason for that?
......
....One more thing for now. A couple of the recommended bridge lengths you gave are different from what Stan has in his Glossary. Any reason for that?
This is getting quite ridiculous. Do you really think it is beneficial to include all these steps in your aiming?
This is getting quite ridiculous. Do you really think it is beneficial to include all these steps in your aiming?
The secondary aim point (1/2 or B in this case) causes the eye and body to move to the side to effect a new stance - pre-bridge down, pre- 1/2 tip shift and pre-pivot. The movement to the side will be smaller when the OB is down table and farther away from the CB which results in a smaller/narrower included angle.
View attachment 171956
The secondary aim point (1/2 or B in this case) causes the eye and body to move to the side to effect a new stance - pre-bridge down, pre- 1/2 tip shift and pre-pivot. The movement to the side will be smaller when the OB is down table and farther away from the CB which results in a smaller/narrower included angle.
View attachment 171956
Hey, I concur.
But different strokes for different folks...what works for one won't work for another. Some may benefit from CTE and others from GB aiming.
There are so many that can't visualize the GB, but can look to/for CTE and the secondary points of aim easier than GB.
Besides instructors need to help those that can benefit from CTE ... sometimes at a cost.
I am a double distance aim shooter myself and find CTE arduous, but I can analize it although it's academic to me.
Be well.:thumbup:
LAMas,
Great diagrams, by the way! I'm curious to see how introducing perspective would alter the visual alignment points. A ballpark visual I've noticed is at about four diamonds the object ball is reduced to approximately half the size of the cue ball. About a 2:1 ratio.
I think the variance in the setup /alignment of the shooter is even smaller than what you've shown. This enables the player to make even tighter adjustments resulting in a more precise targeting of the contact point as the distance increases between the balls.
Best,
Mike
Agreed. That is a lot easier to understand. However, it covers only a small portion of the examples shown on Stan's DVD, and it offers absolutely no guidance concerning which sighting/alignment/pivot to use for different shots! Also, to convert my complete summary to the A/B/C and left/right notation, it would be twice as long! And even then, it wouldn't include some of the "special cases" included on Stan's DVD.After viewing Stan's DVD several times, and after reading many of the posts in recent CTE and Pro-One threads, I've done my best to try to summarize this version of CTE on my CTE resource page (see version 4). I've also tried to use general terminology (e.g., inside/outside instead of A/B/C and left/right) to make the summary as concise as possible. I've also listed names and cut-angle ranges for the different lines of aim, in the spirit of previous versions of CTE. Again, this is my interpretation of the method. Other people might see it differently. Anyway, here it is:
While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed, shift your sight line, bring your cue into alignment as you drop straight into your stance, and pivot as described below:
- For a "straight-in" shot (very little or no cut), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
- For a "very thick" cut (more than about 3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the inside 1/4* of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
- For a "medium thick" cut (about 1/2-to-3/4-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
- For a "medium" cut (about 1/2-ball hit), sight along the inside edge of the CB and the center of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
- For a "medium thin" cut (about 1/2-to-1/4 ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip outside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
- For a "very thin" cut (less than 1/4-ball hit), sight along the inside 1/8 of the CB and the outside 1/8 of the OB. Guided by this line, place the cue 1/2-tip inside of the CB center, and then pivot to the center of the CB.
inside: on the side of the ball toward the cut (i.e., the left side for a cut to the left, the right side for a cut to the right)
outside: on the side of the ball away from the cut (i.e., the right side for a cut to the left, the left side for a cut to the right)
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Note - On the CTE resource page, the information above is summarized even more concisely in tabulated form.
You develop a feel for the alignment and pivot required for a given cut based on lots of practice and experience.
*: If the CB-OB distance is less than about 1', sight to "inside 1/8" instead of "inside 1/4."
You also need to adjust your bridge length based on CB-OB distance: about 8-9" when several feet apart, about 7-8" when about 2' apart, about 6-7" when about 1' apart, about 5-6" when less than about 1' apart, and very short when the balls a very close.
The DVD doesn't provide much guidance on how to decide which alignment and pivot to use for a given shot; although, all of the examples are useful to help figure out how the amount of cut influences the decision.
I'll be curious to hear whether or everybody thinks this is an accurate and fair description of the method. Again, this is my interpretation and opinion, based on what I have learned so far.
Concerning "Pro One," to me it seems less like an "aiming system" and more like a "level of ability" that one can develop through lots of practice with CTE, where bridge hand placement and accurate center-ball alignment come naturally without a mechanical fixed-bridge pivot.
As I point out on my CTE resource page, I think Stan's version is potential better than the other quoted versions because it has more lines of aim and because the pivot amount is small (which limits bridge length and CB-OB distance effects).
I hope the summaries on the resource page help people better understand and compare the different versions of CTE.
WOW!
That wording for reference points A, B & C make it difficult to grasp.
First align center of cue ball to outer edge of object ball, THEN:
For cuts to the right, aim the right edge of the cue ball at B or C only!
For cuts to the left, aim the left edge of the cue ball at A or B only!
This might be a little easier to understand???
What I wrote is my interpretation of what I saw and what I've read, but I can see how different people would interpret it differently.Dave: Here's the slightly longer version of this from your web site:
While standing, sight through the center of the CB and the outside edge of the OB (i.e., sight along the CTE line). Then, based on the amount of cut needed (see the table below), shift your sight line from a given edge or point on the CB to a certain point on the OB. Then, guided by this line, drop straight into your stance, aligning the cue 1/2-tip off the CB's center. Then pivot the cue to the center of the CB with a fixed-bridge pivot.
Your descriptions of this seem, to me, a bit vague as to how to find the proper line for placement of the bridge. You seem to say one should shift his sight line off the CTEL to the secondary line (edge to A/B/C) and then, "guided by this line," somehow drop into the proper offset position.
The way I interpret what Stan says is that, essentially, one needs to find the sighting position where he can simultaneously view both the CTEL and the secondary alignment line (to A/B/C). This sighting position will be between those two alignment lines, and this sighting position will define the relevant edges of the cue ball and, therefore, the relevant face (now think of it as a flat disk) of the cue ball. From this sighting position, move straight in toward that cue-ball face (perpendicular to the flat disk) with the 1/2-tip offset needed.
Do you read what I am saying as any different from what you understood and wrote?
I think the only change I made was to write "12.5 inches" as "about 1 foot." I also added "about" in several places, because this stuff isn't exact. Again, my summary is "my interpretation." When I get some time, I'll look at the glossary again to make sure I haven't made any gross misrepresentations.One more thing for now. A couple of the recommended bridge lengths you gave are different from what Stan has in his Glossary. Any reason for that?
I personally don't think so, but the CTE approach does offer benefits to some people.This is getting quite ridiculous. Do you really think it is beneficial to include all these steps in your aiming?