It's very difficult to see the angle properly when you're already down on the shot...your depth perception can lie to you. Looking at the angle while standing erect over the shot is better.
The challenge one has with describing aiming, adjustment and alignment to someone on a forum is that it's unknown what level that person plays and how much they know/feel in their address of the CB...that's why CJ stresses that this system is mainly aimed at intermediate to advanced players--players that already know how to adjust for throw and squirt off their own established aiming method/site picture. If you're a beginner or have little experience and you have problems adjusting for various elements, then limiting those variables with TOI can be tough to explain or understand. There's a BIG difference between "aligning" CTE or CTC on the OB and "aiming" CTE/CTC. Not the same thing at all, and some people are getting confused between the two.
Most people tend to spin (TOO) shots, adjusting their aim to account for swerve away from the OB (and deflection toward the OB)...they get a touch for it, tending to aim thin, since the OB tends to throw thick into the rail...that's why missing thin (past the pocket) instead of thick (into the rail short of the pocket) is called the "pro side"...since pros, being better players, are less likely to be fooled by deflection into the OB (thick side) than amateurs.
Aiming and addressing the CB in conventional ways is heavily dependant upon the table conditions...dirty balls, wet conditions, worn cloth, etc. has an immediate effect, and regardless of your method, you have to adjust to the conditions. TOI anchors everything in one direction, so it's easier to adjust quickly, whereas you could spend an hour trying to figure out a table using the whole CB. An advance player that is used to spinning the CB can adjust quickly, if they shoot 6 hours per day...for most of us mortals that can't get on the green more than once/twice per week, it can be a challenge if not impossible.
If shifting parallel to the TOI after getting down on the shot is confusing you, take a step back and try this...just aim "thick" on the OB like you're trying to "slip it into" the near side of the pocket...then when you go down on the shot aim it with TOI (quarter tip or so)...DON'T use back hand english, your whole stick is shifted that quarter tip to the inside. Follow straight through on the shot with medium to quick speed (accelerating stroke, follow through should be about the same distance as your pull back). Regardless of your experience level, you will have a tendancy to want to steer or correct what you're doing, because it may look wrong to you, which can make this tough.
For most folks, it's easier to put just a little (half tip) of draw...so it's really quarter tip inside, half tip draw. Draw, follow or equator of CB isn't that relevant to making the shot, but it makes a huge difference in leave on the CB...but keeping it consistent while seeing how it fits your aiming system may help you. If you dive into the rail short, add another quarter tip of inside. Keep everything else the same. Once you hit the sweet spot (OB dead center pocket "thwock" sound and the CB isn't spinning after contact or especially after it hits a rail), you're in business. Start adusting with follow or draw and speed to see how you can control the CB. Shoot shots with greater distance between the CB and OB to see how much you might need to adjust your TOI to keep the OB in the center of the pocket (for me, this adjustment is so slight it's hard to describe; it's really a feel thing that the next three weeks of shooting with it will fix for you). The half ball hit angle is probably the easiest to learn off of, since you'll most easily see the affect of english on the shot...and it's repeatable to set up and try again.
