Question, cue tip shaper

Blackheart Cues

Give us a call at 800-5-TIGER-5 and ask for Tony or Elia, they can explain in detail the technique. In fact, if you are ever at the Super Billiards Expo, BCA Nationals or APA Nationals we will give free training.

The same goes for Stack Leather Wrap installation.
 
Tiger Tool

I see the top side of the tool, but is the bottom side of the edge tapered as well? If so, it looks to be a little thick for cutting a tip, you would have to hold it an odd angle. I'm not sure if anyone has tried it, but I was thinking of something similar to this tool. I currently use the razor blade, as it is the best I've come across, but I plan on taking a wide (1" or so) chisel, grinding off the normal cutting edge, and then sharpening a long side. (after removing the handle of course). This makes it long enough to extend out some and if you sharpen the edge as you would a chisel ( the bottom is flat, with the taper on only one side) then you can actually hold it flat against the ferrule and not worry about that little bit of leather that you may have missed by having the wrong angle with the razor blade. Plus it ends the rigidity problem. Just a thought, anyone with suggestions or rebuttals please feel free.

~Shakes
 
Tigger tool

It looks like a Japanes marking knife. I have one. Its very sharp and for wood working, marks accurate lines. Just hard to see the line.

I will play with it and see what I come up with


Edit, upon further review, its much thinner than a Japanese marking knife.
 
I have found that if you put your tailstock against the tip while you trim it with a new razor blade, it will cut very nicely, and NOT pull the tip apart at all. I would not recommend cutting layered tips without the pressure of the tailstock keeping the tip compressed it is cut.
 
> Sheldon,that video rules. My problem with cutting tips like you did here is a problem with my technique. When laying the blade flat on the ferrule like you did and pulling the blade back until the whole overhang is gone,I always wind up cutting a groove into the tip because it wants to dig in at a downward angle,like it's trying to "roll" in my hand. I use the same technique as you,but don't cut as much,just pulling it away from the ferrule,then using the cutter in my toolpost. Any ideas? Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> Sheldon,that video rules. My problem with cutting tips like you did here is a problem with my technique. When laying the blade flat on the ferrule like you did and pulling the blade back until the whole overhang is gone,I always wind up cutting a groove into the tip because it wants to dig in at a downward angle,like it's trying to "roll" in my hand. I use the same technique as you,but don't cut as much,just pulling it away from the ferrule,then using the cutter in my toolpost. Any ideas? Tommy D.
Click to expand...

You will get the feel of it.... it takes a little practice. Keep the blade almost flat, and angled, it shouldn't dig in. Watch the video and note the angle between the shaft and the edge of the blade. It has to be very sharp, and not much pressure should be needed. Cut it down with a few passes, don't try to take it all off at once.
 
Ring said:
It looks like a Japanes marking knife. I have one. Its very sharp and for wood working, marks accurate lines. Just hard to see the line.

I will play with it and see what I come up with


Edit, upon further review, its much thinner than a Japanese marking knife.
Click to expand...

It looks like a sharpened cut-off tool bit to me, but what do I know, other than the rough prices for tool bits.

Dave
 
Sheldon said:
I have found that if you put your tailstock against the tip while you trim it with a new razor blade, it will cut very nicely, and NOT pull the tip apart at all. I would not recommend cutting layered tips without the pressure of the tailstock keeping the tip compressed it is cut.
Click to expand...



Tap, Tap,

I do that also, and It does help with the spreading or rolling that can take place. I need a smaller concave though, because it's hard to trim the end near the radius of the tip with the one i use now. I can do it, but have to put the tip of the razor inside the radius of the concave, and that's not the safest thing to do:eek: . Infact i would not recomend it to anyone. It would be alot safer just to sand the last part when the type of tip your using allows it, because the final radius on the end of the tip will probably go past that part anyhow. I cut the radius alittle before setting My tailstock in positon anyway, and sometimes that's enough to make it easier to trim the sides all the way through, then I do the final radius after everything is done.

I also Aggree about the way the blade tries to dig, and cut into the tip too deep, and that is an aquired skill that gets better the more you use the method. There are also other things that can increase the odds of this type of thing happening, such as a dull blade being used, or the shaft not being centered very well in the jaws. The better centered, and sharper the blade the better the odds of a smoother cut It seems. I use My tool post for a steady to partially rest the knife on also, much the same way as some other guys do.

Also when using a tool in the post to get the tip to size before trimming with the blade (if that's the way one is doing It), I feel only working toward the headstock helps when using a tool in the post and no concave support, because it only compresses the tip against the ferulle. cutting toward the tailstock without a concave can cause the seperation that we commonly hear of hapening, and that's part of the reason the concave helps with the final trimming using the knife, It helps hold the tip together, and can also even help center It better sometimes IMO, resulting in a smoother cut.

These are just things I've noticed, so mostly just personal opinions, but I'm sure there are many of ways to go about it, and get the same results.


Greg
 
I'm gonna get shouted down here but after a lot of consultation with Tony Jones from Talisman and getting nowhere (not Tony's fault) I went back to the same tool I use for non layered tips - a combo disc/belt sander . Yes I know heating the tips can cause the layers to seperate - however - use a low speed (if possible) use coarse grit paper and a light touch - never leaving it on long enough to get too hot !
Anyway , I'm not getting anymore delaminations than anyone else , very few infact .

Oh , and don't forget to put a little cellotape on the ferrule first !
 
Need help with Sheldon's file

Sheldon said:
http://lebowcustomcue.home.comcast.net/VIDEO.zip

Watch that, and your confusion should evaporate. :)
No sanding should be needed at all, you can shape the tip however you want with a little practice, and a sharp blade.
Click to expand...

Can Sheldon or someone else here convert this VIDEO.AVI file to a file that I can view with windows media player. Either that or provide a link to where I can download an AVI file viewer. Thanks
 
Kevin Lindstrom said:
Can Sheldon or someone else here convert this VIDEO.AVI file to a file that I can view with windows media player. Either that or provide a link to where I can download an AVI file viewer. Thanks
Click to expand...
Do a search for "divx codec" it is a Windows Media Player add-on, that will allow you to veiw it. If you can't find it, I would be willing to email it to you.

Tracy
 
I wish I can take this on the road.:D
This puppy trims em flush.
Just be careful with your nose.:eek:
 

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thanks

RSB-Refugee said:
Do a search for "divx codec" it is a Windows Media Player add-on, that will allow you to veiw it. If you can't find it, I would be willing to email it to you.

Tracy
Click to expand...

Tracy
I got it and can view the video, thanks for your help I appreciate it.
Kevin
 
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