OK, so I worked on english shots today. I noticed something... WHen I hit it best, across a full table diagonally and aimed it straight in with one tip of english in either direction the object ball still went almost perfectly straight in, maybe an inch or so off..
So i take it that that is a good thing, a sign that I'm starting to get this right.
If your goal is to make the ball go into a pocket.
I think what I'll do is maybe measure off inches on my cue because sometimes when I don't hit it correctly, the object ball totally swerves off course..I think that is because of an inconsistent bridge length.
Just a note about the nomenclature since it's important for avoiding confusion. Object balls don't really swerve, practically speaking, unless struck by an airborne cueball - "swerve" meaning to follow a curved path. This has to be qualified a bit if you're playing on heavy napped cloth, but you likely aren't. They are, however, 'thrown' by friction with the cueball during the collision in a direction they normally wouldn't go if you look at the geometry alone. This effect is small when the cueball has a lot of topspin or backspin on it as it arrives at the object ball, and can generally be ignored in these cases. If the cueball doesn't have a lot of topspin or backspin, the throw effect is greater and you'll often enough have to compensate for it. Most players learn to do this subconsciously, but it doesn't hurt to be aware of it.
Also... it seemed that depending on the speed and distance of the shot, the bridge length changes a little.. Is it just error on my part or is that true? Seemed like it wasn't me.
Yes, you are correct. Speed and distance affect how much the 'cueball' swerves on the way to the object ball. And generally speaking (there are exceptions), speed affects how much the object ball is thrown off its geometrically ideal direction during the collision. Higher speeds actually reduce friction between the balls.
I think an easy way to remember how bridge length adjustments affect the shot when using the backhand pivot method (which it seems you are doing) to apply outside english (right sidespin when hitting the object ball on its right side, i.e, cutting it to the left), is that with a typical cut shot, moving your bridge hand back will result in a fuller hit on the object ball, i.e.,
more (exposed) shaft =
more object ball.
The above affects the initial direction of the cueball as it leaves the tip. This is called "squirt", or "deflection" by some. As far as the curved path the cueball subsequently follows (swerve), striking
high on the cueball (in addition to the applied english) will generally result in
more effective swerve (sideways displacement of the cueball as it reaches the object ball), while striking
low will produce
less. This is for shots with only a modest distance separating the balls. The opposite can be true with large distances. (Striking low produces more swerve overall, but it happens much more gradually. Thus the term "effective swerve.")
Combining these to sort of auto-compensate when applying outside english using the backhand pivot method then, striking
high on the cueball =
more exposed shaft when pivoting,
low =
less. And since greater shot speed reduces effective swerve but doesn't affect squirt (practically speaking),
greater speed =
less exposed shaft,
less shot speed =
more. Unfortunately, the latter is an inverse relationship, which isn't as neat and as easy to remember as the other ones. I'll leave it to you to work out these relations for inside english (left sidespin when cutting the object ball to the left, i.e., still hitting the object ball on right side).
As you probably realize, these details (and others) are maybe good to be consciously aware of while developing a feel during practice. But the end goal is for all of this to become second nature.
Jim