Quick cue question...

N

number1nub

Registered
I hope this is the right place to post this... I was just wondering how to tell the difference between actual ivory joints (inlays as well, but not quite as important) and synthetics....I am in the process of buying a cue from someone, and he says he is pretty sure that the joint is ivory, and I'd like to ensure I get what I pay for :smile:

One thing I thought was odd is that towards the upper and lower outer edges of the joint, the material is almost like... flaked off slightly, like small chips just from aging, not any mishandling. Would ivory do this?

Thanks in advance for any help!!

*edit* I don't know if this will help, but the cue is an andy gilbert... I don't know if certain makers are known for using real vs synthetic ivory, but thought it might be useful info?
 
Last edited:
Have someone who would know look at it?

You could email a pic of the stick to the maker, but that would likely only indicate how it was made. Not its current state.
 
Ivory Inlay

When was the cue made? Most ivory now is micarta (a synthetic ivory) which acts like ivory in every way. It also turns to that yellowish tint just like aged ivory. I don't think there is a way for a layman to see the difference. Like the guy said before your best bet is contacting the cue maker. Also what is the price selling? If it is a newer cue with real ivory I would think it would be real expensive.
 
Sprinkle some peanuts around it on the floor and come back in an hour...if the peanuts are gone...its ivory, if not...then you have some peanuts to clean up.;)

Southpaw
 
DJKeys said:
Just use a magnifying glass. Ivory has an unmistakable grain to it.
Click to expand...

Indeed. Google "Schreger Lines" to know what you need to look for.
Off course the fun part is, depending on how the ivory is cut there may or
may not be Schreger lines clearly visible, check both the side view and top view of the joint.

gr. Dave
 
What's flaking off is probably finish. Best bet is to call Andy Gilbert. Good luck with that.
 
h

Here is one if you can see it.
 

Attachments

  • ivory-joint.jpg
    ivory-joint.jpg
    47.5 KB · Views: 94
jongreve said:
A blacklight does NOT make for a very good test of such substances.

See the following thread
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=98633

Good info in post #'s: 8, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18, 21,and 22


disclaimer: personally I have never tried such tests (except for PVC as mentioned in post #14)
Click to expand...
The next test involves using an inexpensive black light which you can find at most department or home improvement stores. Shine the black light on the piece. Ivory develops a beautiful natural patina with age which shows up as a yellow-brown overall color under normal lighting conditions. Under black light this patina will show up as a dull mottled yellow with an occasional spot of brilliant white where the original surface shows through from wear. Bone, and especially plastics, are often given a patina to simulate ivory?s natural look by soaking the piece in chemicals, manure, or even tea. These usually fluoresce a bright yellow under black light.

You can also take a Q-tip, dip it in alcohol and rub the piece in an inconspicuous area. If the patina comes off and colors the Q-tip, chances are good it's a paint or varnish or some other substance that was applied to give the impression of age.

There is one other way to tell what a piece is made of, but be aware this should be used only as a last resort since it is a slightly destructive test. Take a pin and heat it in a flame. Touch the hot pin to an inconspicuous area of the piece. If it is real ivory it will produce a scorched area which remains smooth. If you are very close when you touch the pin to the piece, you'll notice a smell like a dentist's office. If it is bone it will char a darker black and produce a slight amount of ash. If, on the other hand, it is resin or plastic, the needle will easily melt into the surface and produce "burrs" or small rough areas around the hole. If you are very close when you touch the pin to the piece, you?ll smell burning plastic.
 
Steve Ellis said:
What do you look for under the black light?
Click to expand...

The next test involves using an inexpensive black light which you can find at most department or home improvement stores. Shine the black light on the piece. Ivory develops a beautiful natural patina with age which shows up as a yellow-brown overall color under normal lighting conditions. Under black light this patina will show up as a dull mottled yellow with an occasional spot of brilliant white where the original surface shows through from wear. Bone, and especially plastics, are often given a patina to simulate ivory?s natural look by soaking the piece in chemicals, manure, or even tea. These usually fluoresce a bright yellow under black light.

You can also take a Q-tip, dip it in alcohol and rub the piece in an inconspicuous area. If the patina comes off and colors the Q-tip, chances are good it's a paint or varnish or some other substance that was applied to give the impression of age.

There is one other way to tell what a piece is made of, but be aware this should be used only as a last resort since it is a slightly destructive test. Take a pin and heat it in a flame. Touch the hot pin to an inconspicuous area of the piece. If it is real ivory it will produce a scorched area which remains smooth. If you are very close when you touch the pin to the piece, you'll notice a smell like a dentist's office. If it is bone it will char a darker black and produce a slight amount of ash. If, on the other hand, it is resin or plastic, the needle will easily melt into the surface and produce "burrs" or small rough areas around the hole. If you are very close when you touch the pin to the piece, you?ll smell burning plastic.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top