Radial under-sized tap

rhncue said:
Are you using the same drill bit? Something must be changing I would believe. May be that some of your shafts are harder than others but I've never had that problem occur.

Dick
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that's a good point dickie. i have a couple 5/16 bits. one may be a worn?? i did use one of them to drill some stainless awhile back. i'll check that out tomorrow.
 
stix4sale said:
have any of you guys had troubles with the joint being TOO tight??
i use the undersized radial tap from atlas also
not all, but a couple have been so tight i had to keep running the lathe forward & reverse with the butt in headstock & holding the shaft, to finally get it loose enough, normal i should say
could it be slight variation in the radial pins??
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I put a little soap on the threads and screw it together a couple of times and it is a nice snug fit.

Good cuemaking,
 
Does anyone really trust just drilling the shaft? Why drill when you could/ should bore?!

Thanks everyone!
Great thread,.....IMO:D
 
Joey
I don't understand why I can't make radial threads in a shaft. I can make the cutter what ever the shape of the thread is. Maybe there is something that I am not seeing?
Gary
 
You CAN. I have cutters that make radial threads, but they were custom made and not cheap. The harder part is getting the tpi correct.
 
HPbyGD said:
Joey
I don't understand why I can't make radial threads in a shaft. I can make the cutter what ever the shape of the thread is. Maybe there is something that I am not seeing?
Gary
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7.5 or 8.5 threads per inch is not in my Logan thread gear setting. :)
 
thanks

Varney Cues said:
Dick, I use wax in threads of my butts...never one single issue. I, like you, did wonder if it could ever hurt the "glueability", but I've had no problems yet...and it would of surely showed by now.;)
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thanks...that will make my life easier.....i also havnt been using wax when tapping out for the pin for fear of the glue not holding. james
 
Poulos Cues said:
Does anyone really trust just drilling the shaft? Why drill when you could/ should bore?!

Thanks everyone!
Great thread,.....IMO:D
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Better be a really sharp drill and dead-on tailstock.
 
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I have never used change gears in my lathe (and probably never will) but I have a question. Can you disengage the half-nut at the end of the cut and then reengage it to take subsequent passes when using change gears? In other words, will the tool return to the same starting position so you won't be cross threading?

I know on my lathe if I want to cut metric threads, I can't ever disengage the half-nut. I would have to turn the lathe off at the end of the cut, then turn the spindle by hand in reverse until the tool went to the start of the thread again, then turn on the lathe and resume the thread cutting. This is true even if I always went to the same number on my threading dial. The reason being the lead screw is in inches. I thought the same thing might apply when using a change gear to achieve a non-standard thread pitch.
 
iusedtoberich said:
I have never used change gears in my lathe (and probably never will) but I have a question. Can you disengage the half-nut at the end of the cut and then reengage it to take subsequent passes when using change gears? In other words, will the tool return to the same starting position so you won't be cross threading?
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That should not be an issue, since you can do the full cut in one pass with a router.
 
iusedtoberich said:
I have never used change gears in my lathe (and probably never will) but I have a question. Can you disengage the half-nut at the end of the cut and then reengage it to take subsequent passes when using change gears? In other words, will the tool return to the same starting position so you won't be cross threading?
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Yes. It is the function of a 'threading dial' to ensure you know when to engage the halfnut. A threading dial is a little dial that is attached to the carriage, and it spins with the leadscrew when the halfnut is disengaged. I can't explain things worth a darn without pictures or at least a lot of arm-waving, so here is a reference (see page 27) :

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf

Dave
 
Sheldon said:
That should not be an issue, since you can do the full cut in one pass with a router.
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I agree in this case, but I was wondering more from a general machining type situation where you would have to take multiple passes in order to complete a thread.
 
DaveK said:
Yes. It is the function of a 'threading dial' to ensure you know when to engage the halfnut. A threading dial is a little dial that is attached to the carriage, and it spins with the leadscrew when the halfnut is disengaged. I can't explain things worth a darn without pictures or at least a lot of arm-waving, so here is a reference (see page 27) :

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf

Dave
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Dave, I do know how to use the threading dial and how to cut threads. But there are some situations where even if you use the dial (and return to the same number on the dial), you can't take multiple passes on a thread. On my lathe this is true when cutting metric threads. What I want to know is is this also true when cutting a crazy inch thread pitch with a change gear?

Thanks.
 
iusedtoberich said:
Dave, I do know how to use the threading dial and how to cut threads. But there are some situations where even if you use the dial (and return to the same number on the dial), you can't take multiple passes on a thread. On my lathe this is true when cutting metric threads. What I want to know is is this also true when cutting a crazy inch thread pitch with a change gear?

Thanks.
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Sorry, I thought it was a general question. The answer is 'maybe'. It would depend on what crazy pitch and the configuration of the leadscrew and threading dial. Some of these crazy pitches could use the dial, but you'd have to watch closely and count as you could engage on every second pass by ... tricky but doable. I like Sheldons comment, cut em in one pass :)

Dave
 
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