Didn't ask me but I generally use the ever handy paper money. Just deduct twice the thickness of the money from the measurement or you can set tools to zero on twice the thickness.
Hu
Relevant Cue Dimensions
- Thread starter Biloxi Boy
- Start date
Didn't ask me but I generally use the ever handy paper money. Just deduct twice the thickness of the money from the measurement or you can set tools to zero on twice the thickness.
Hu
I think I’m the exception not the rule.
I am generally careful with handling my cue, but honestly my shaft is ash and its grain is prominent, so it might be scratched and I just don't know it
Are you sure you like “butts” that thin??
My post was a reference to your other preferencesDepends, there’s a thread that shows what I like
Biloxi Boy
Man With A Golden Arm
Thank you all for your replies. Still wondering what the minimum dimensions, at which points, are needed for conversion. If it is just personal preference, then I guess the real question is how much material is expected to be consumed in conversion, which answer is likely driven, in part, by the cue's condition.
Drafting is an incredible talent which utilizes taking, translating, and representing measurements. I am sure Hu can provide a much better explanation. My elementary exposure is limited to drawing real property boundaries from written "legal descriptions".
Drafting is an incredible talent which utilizes taking, translating, and representing measurements. I am sure Hu can provide a much better explanation. My elementary exposure is limited to drawing real property boundaries from written "legal descriptions".
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I'll give my opinion here. I'm an amateur. Hobbyist. So Not a full time builder.
First thing I look at is how straight it is. Usually the shaft is warped and that's fine because its getting cut off anyway.
If you're wanting to leave the butt intact then that's a bit different and you need to find a much thicker starting point to maintain the full butt.
I rarely keep the butt intact. I almost always add a maple or purpleheart handle and do a wrap. This gives me a lot more wiggle room to get the points where I want them in relation to the joint and helps get the weight where I want it.
I want it be relatively straight from the bottom up to 2'' above the points.
Anything thicker than .87 2'' above the points typically leaves me enough room to true the cue up with a few passes if its slightly warped. A roundabout standard at the joint is .85. So if its .88 or more even better. Usually the butts are all thick enough not have any issues there and since most of these cues get a phenolic buttcap its not a problem if the bottom half inch or so is cracked or chewed up.
Stay away from McDonald's.
Thanks for the kind words but I have found drawing property boundaries from legal descriptions to be extremely challenging sometimes. Fourteen acres I wanted to buy was just a bit over twelve at best. To make matters worse there was an over 200' gap, the property line didn't close! I tried twice using a board and hand tools then went to pay a surveyors office since I didn't have CAD handy at the moment. They came out with the same numbers I did, and did it for free, professional courtesy!
I don't really have an answer to your cue question. It doesn't take much warpage in the butt area to complicate things immensely. Probably turning a new shaft so the joint to the buttcap are probably the only dimensions you are worried about and you can generally "cheat" that part of cue back and forth a few inches or put a new section above the wrap or where the wrap would be to gain a few inches and a few critical hundredths of thickness at the joint if you need it. Four to six inches added near the bumper drops the whole blank down and makes the diameter a little fatter.
I'm sure you know the real gold is in the huge old blanks the size of baseball bats. Catch is people have been searching for them for over fifty years. A cache of them does show up now and then but they are getting rarer by the day. The best of those old cues are getting restored now too, further tightening supply.
I see Bishop has said much the same while I was typing. I will go ahead and post this after typing but he has covered much the same ground. Various ways to "stretch" a butt if you really like it and need a little more meat.
Hu
I don't really have an answer to your cue question. It doesn't take much warpage in the butt area to complicate things immensely. Probably turning a new shaft so the joint to the buttcap are probably the only dimensions you are worried about and you can generally "cheat" that part of cue back and forth a few inches or put a new section above the wrap or where the wrap would be to gain a few inches and a few critical hundredths of thickness at the joint if you need it. Four to six inches added near the bumper drops the whole blank down and makes the diameter a little fatter.
I'm sure you know the real gold is in the huge old blanks the size of baseball bats. Catch is people have been searching for them for over fifty years. A cache of them does show up now and then but they are getting rarer by the day. The best of those old cues are getting restored now too, further tightening supply.
I see Bishop has said much the same while I was typing. I will go ahead and post this after typing but he has covered much the same ground. Various ways to "stretch" a butt if you really like it and need a little more meat.
Hu
I have always wondered about this. I did some research, and IIRC, it had to do with the fact that originally most tips were made in France, I believe. Makes no sense to me, all measurements of a cue should be in the same format-
-dj
I just did a little quick research, France went metric in 1795 according to what I read! I think leather tips originated there in that same general timeframe so metric tips make a little sense I guess.
Hu
Hu
Makes sense with the tip and the shaft diameter as well. Off the top of my head those are the only 2 metric measurements on a cue. I could be wrong, just woke up. Need a coffee
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