repairing the thread on the shaft for my omega/dpk...

filluptieu

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
it seems like the bottom half of the wooden threads on my shaft has come out. i believe its a 3/8 x 14. Now the thing is that it still screws into the butt and tightens up just fine, and plays the same but im just worried about it and wondering who would be a good person to fix it? and if it takes a specialist to do it since the thread is a bit rare
 
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I'm not an expert but the easiest way I believe to fix this is to core out the bottom section of your shaft and glue a maple, olive wood, cocabolo... insert and then re-tap the shaft. Ned Morris told me down in Vegas he purposely uses and Olive wood insert in all of his shafts because it has natural oils within the wood and doesn't dry rot over time. If you haven't done this on your own before I suggest you send it to someone like KJ cues and have him fill it and re-tap it. The Omega/DPK thread is not very common and you might have to find someone that has that specific tap to do the work for you.
Anyways hope this helps.
 
yea thats what i figured to do, which was to send it off. the thing i am worried about it if you tap it will it change the hit on the cue? and if you use different woods will it change the hit also? i want to keep it as close to the way it plays right now
 
Did the person who replaced the tip clean the shaft? or attempt to clean it?

Personally, I would leave it alone until it became a problem.

If you are compelled, Atlas sells a 3/8-14 tap, so there should be plenty of people who can do the job for you if that is indeed your thread type.

The method described is correct, bore and plug and retap. Bocote is another wood often used for this I believe. I do not believe it would change the hit any amount noticeable, but leaving it alone is the best approach regarding that.

Kelly
 
it seems like the bottom half of the wooden threads on my shaft has come out. please dont ask how this happened because i believe the person that installed my tip screwed it up but anyways... i believe its a 3/8 x 14. Now the thing is that it still screws into the butt and tightens up just fine, and plays the same but im just worried about it and wondering who would be a good person to fix it? and if it takes a specialist to do it since the thread is a bit rare

It is a very easy fix that any good cue repairman can fix with little trouble. However, I think that the Pin used on Omega / DPA cues, is the same used by Kersenbrock, Bender, and Southwest which is 3/8-11, but I may be wrong. The correct way to fix the problem is to drill out the hole and put a core into the shaft and drill and re-tap it.

However, if it still tightens up I would leave it alone until it it doesn't.
 
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It is a very easy fix that any good cue repairman can fix with little trouble. However, I think that the Pin used on Omega / DPA cues, is the same used by Kersenbrock, Bender, and Southwest which is 3/8-11, but I may be wrong. The correct way to fix the problem is to drill out the hole and put a core into the shaft and drill and re-tap it.

However, if it still tightens up I would leave it alone until it it doesn't.

Bender and DPK are not 11 TPI.
Those 14 tpi taps are specialty taps. I don't know who has them to sell.
 
It should be 3/8x14, and you need to send it to Mike Bender or Ed Young if you want to ensure that it's done right.
Mr H
 
it seems like the bottom half of the wooden threads on my shaft has come out. please dont ask how this happened because i believe the person that installed my tip screwed it up but anyways... i believe its a 3/8 x 14. Now the thing is that it still screws into the butt and tightens up just fine, and plays the same but im just worried about it and wondering who would be a good person to fix it? and if it takes a specialist to do it since the thread is a bit rare

If the thread is a 3/8x14, I have the tap. I also sell the tap.
I'll volunteer my services but I'd like the whole cue to confirm a proper fit.

I'd also second what others have said, 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.
If it's just a mental thing, that's a cheaper fix.
Seriously, if it was just a thread or two that got stripped, it's no biggie. You started with 14 right? That's only a 7 to 14% reduction. Anything after the first 5 threads on that pin configuration are all but useless anyway.
Look at the McD QR, 3/8x16 with only 5 threads.
Another example would be Viking QR.
And the 'coup de gras', Uni-Loc, 1 thread.

I told you the mental-fix was cheaper.
 
i will take a upclose picture of it so you guys can see it for your self. the first like 4 threads are gone...
 
I had a shaft redone from 3/8-11 to 3/8-14 by Mike Dorton (Alpha Cues, Muncie, IN). He filled the hole with something (epoxy? I think so) and retapped it. Turned out great.

It was $20.

-s

edit: the plug could be phenolic. Definitely not wood tho.
 
yea thats what i figured to do, which was to send it off. the thing i am worried about it if you tap it will it change the hit on the cue? and if you use different woods will it change the hit also? i want to keep it as close to the way it plays right now

I had someone perforom this operation on a spare shaft that my uncle gave me. It was a 5/16-14 that I wanted to play on a 3/8-10 cue. I was pleasantly suprised that it did not change the way the shaft played. I play well and am picky. It plays great. My repairman used maple for the insert.

All the Best,
Joe
 
i will take a upclose picture of it so you guys can see it for your self. the first like 4 threads are gone...

Good idea, pics will reduce the number of bad calls incurred from over-active imaginations. Please include a shot of the pin as well.
 
I had someone perforom this operation on a spare shaft that my uncle gave me. It was a 5/16-14 that I wanted to play on a 3/8-10 cue. I was pleasantly suprised that it did not change the way the shaft played. I play well and am picky. It plays great. My repairman used maple for the insert.

All the Best,
Joe

It's one of the last secrets of mankind, why the hit should change by changing the TPIs...:thumbup:
 
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