Any recommendations for a resin place? I have some redwood lace burl I want to have stabilized and ready for cue building. Unless you think I shouldn't waste my time on it.
Conifers like redwood can be rather tricky to stabilize properly.... I got a chuckle out of this "tip" about stabilizing redwood from one of the "home stabilizing" suppliers.
"These woods are known to not absorb much XXXXXX XXXXX in a vacuum process. To get good results, you need REAL high pressure such at 4,000 psi. As a result, it is best to just avoid these in the home shop unless you have the proper equipment to achieve these high pressures."
With all due respect meridianblades, if memory serves me correctly, and I did just research this before posting...YOU were the one to say on this forum, it is required to have 4000psi to be done correctly, otherwise it's not considered stabilized. Here is the thread:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=342760
You were very uppity about this considering you have NEVER done this your self... I even asked this of you and you didn't respond. You seem to only know what your supplier has told you. If you do the quick math about your 4000 psi quote, for a 1.5 x 1.5 x18" piece would work out to this:
1.5 x1.5 x 18" equals 40.5 square inches which means to maintain 4000 psi over 40.5 square inches, you must have a overall psi of = 162,000 of pressure.... what type of tank holds this? What type of compressor generates this, or if my math is off, even 4000 psi as a max? I know I don't wanna be around when it blows, and google searches turned up nothing.
To the OP, I have done quite a bunch of stabilizing redwood burl using different fluids, and have had great result on all attempts. It is easy as this wood is like a sponge....but it does color any remaining fluid with a red-ish tinge, but if you save it and just use it for redwood, no problem. The stuff I now use has a UV dye in it and it's very easy to tell if it has penetrated all the way thru. If your interested, PM me and I'll give any help I can.
Dave
Dave I have done A TON of stabilizing myself.... that's why I send to the PROS. Isnt it coincidental that he used the 4K PSI number? hahaahaha....The math is off Dave, the tank is pressurized up to 4K.... redwood is VERY difficult to do right, and even some of the PRO outfits have trouble with it as well. Yep real easy to tell if it went thru...show the pics of the dye going all the way thru....and the weight. Dave when do we get to do the water test? There was other woods he listed in his tip too.
To the OP.... send me a PM and I can tell you where to send it to have it done the professionally, with penetration going all the way thru.
With all due respect meridianblades, if memory serves me correctly, and I did just research this before posting...YOU were the one to say on this forum, it is required to have 4000psi to be done correctly, otherwise it's not considered stabilized. Here is the thread:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=342760
You were very uppity about this considering you have NEVER done this your self... I even asked this of you and you didn't respond. You seem to only know what your supplier has told you. If you do the quick math about your 4000 psi quote, for a 1.5 x 1.5 x18" piece would work out to this:
1.5 x1.5 x 18" equals 40.5 square inches which means to maintain 4000 psi over 40.5 square inches, you must have a overall psi of = 162,000 of pressure.... what type of tank holds this? What type of compressor generates this, or if my math is off, even 4000 psi as a max? I know I don't wanna be around when it blows, and google searches turned up nothing.
To the OP, I have done quite a bunch of stabilizing redwood burl using different fluids, and have had great result on all attempts. It is easy as this wood is like a sponge....but it does color any remaining fluid with a red-ish tinge, but if you save it and just use it for redwood, no problem. The stuff I now use has a UV dye in it and it's very easy to tell if it has penetrated all the way thru. If your interested, PM me and I'll give any help I can.
Dave
Poking fun of people isn't funny. Publicly belittling people isn't worthy of a chuckle. This section is for cue makers to conversate amongst one another and/or to answer questions cue related. If you are not a cuemaker & do not build cues, then you have no place answering questions directed at cuemakers. Furthermore, it's not acceptable to publicly ridicule & poke fun of business rivals, especially when acting as a shill.
shill
A person engaged in covert advertising. The shill attempts to spread buzz by personally endorsing the product in public forums with the pretense of sincerity, when in fact he is being paid for his services.
A shill, also called a plant or a stooge, is a person who publicly helps a person or organization without disclosing that they have a close relationship with the person or organization.
How odd. I remember that as well.
I sent some off to River Ridge Products, they did a great job,
thanks gary
I sent some off to River Ridge Products, they did a great job,
thanks gary
MeridianBlades is offering some quality advice here and not shilling anything.
He's been there done that in regards to stabilizing in house. That is exactly why he uses a pro to do his work.
If you have a block of awesome redwood lace, do you really want to risk it being destroyed by your home-brew setup? For far less than what it would take to setup a shop in your own home, send it out and have it done correctly.
MeridianBlades is offering some quality advice here and not shilling anything.
He's been there done that in regards to stabilizing in house. That is exactly why he uses a pro to do his work.
If you have a block of awesome redwood lace, do you really want to risk it being destroyed by your home-brew setup? For far less than what it would take to setup a shop in your own home, send it out and have it done correctly.
I sent my curly spalted maple squares off to have them done "correctly". They came back all cracked to hell. I lost 80% of it. You shouldn't suggest there is no risk by having it done by a pro.
Hi,
Creating a 4000 psi hydraulic head differential is no big deal concerning the fabrication and operation of a vessel to do this deed. Since liquid does not compress that much only a small volume of gas needs to be compressed on top of the liquid to the 4000 psi.
The question is can air be used to boost the pressure or does the chemistry of the stabilization product inflict a danger of reactivity that may go boom boom. Air is about 20% oxygen and as the partial pressure atmospheres in the vessel increases, what effect does the oxygen have with the media at the load pressures and heat that will be present????? Inert gases like nitrogen do not contain oxygen.
In a re compression chamber at only 100 psi for example, using air the oxygen partial pressure is increase whereby something that is non combustible at normal atmospheric pressure will rapidly combust with just a spark. Compression of a chemical is or could be very dangerous business to someone screwing around in the garage who is unaware!
I can see where Meridianblades reference to this being done by a professional is sound advice.
The devil is always in the detail and it is always what you don't know or think you know that can hurt you.
JMO,
Rick
Kelly
No more details than that? Curly is one of the easiest. Where did you send it? What was the moisture content? How over sized were they ?
I will say this..... I have NEVER had curly maple (spalted or not) come back cracked. So not sure what happened.
There is ALWAYS a risk, but one of the places I use is regularly doing SNAKEWOOD in 2 x 2 squares, and have been successfully doing it for YEARS.
Also it should be mentioned that even tho you get it done by a pro, it's still not a 100% guarantee that it wont move....but IMO its the best method available.