Run This (14)
- Thread starter CueAndMe
- Start date
Of the break shots available, I least dislike the two in the bottom side pocket. There is no real good key ball, but I would try to use the one with follow. The rest of the pattern is clearing off loose balls in a way that leaves me nearly straight on the one to the upper-right corner. I think this forces the 9 to be the first shot. You should be able to do this rack without contacting a cushion.
One little technique to use for getting position on the two is to note that the cue ball wants to be even with the side pocket, which gives you a specific target to try for on position. Another small benefit of being exactly even with the side pocket is that bridging through the pocket opening often lets you keep a more level stick than when you bridge on the normal rail.
One little technique to use for getting position on the two is to note that the cue ball wants to be even with the side pocket, which gives you a specific target to try for on position. Another small benefit of being exactly even with the side pocket is that bridging through the pocket opening often lets you keep a more level stick than when you bridge on the normal rail.
I believe this is what Bob has in mind. I like leaving a little angle on the 1 so you can get the cue ball off the rail for the shot on the 2.
I didn't even consider the 2 in the bottom side. Thanks for pointing it out. I could be wrong, but the 9 may not be that easy to hold without going to the foot rail for a straight shot on the 10 or 15. Maybe it is possible by cheating the pocket and spinning the ball in.
I have a few solutions for this rack, but I'll let others have a crack at it first.
I have a few solutions for this rack, but I'll let others have a crack at it first.
That's one of two orders I thought of. The other is 10-15 which requires less travel of the cue ball.Marop said:
I think for each person, it depends on the answer to this question: Can you send the cue ball two diamonds off a ball and maybe also off a cushion and hit the correct side of another ball?cuetable said:
Any risky attempt to make a good break ball should not destroy the only break ball you have so far nor should it make it impossible to run out if you land badly on the ball you are trying to move. Maybe the first two risky shots you show don't violate those caveats, but the third does.
How about 9 in the lower left corner, (stop)
10 in the lower right corner (roll 6")
13 top left corner roll for straight in on 1
1 top right corner (roll straight for the 2)
2 in the side (stick)
spot the 15 and shoot the two railer.
..... better explained now ....
10 in the lower right corner (roll 6")
13 top left corner roll for straight in on 1
1 top right corner (roll straight for the 2)
2 in the side (stick)
spot the 15 and shoot the two railer.
..... better explained now ....
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Here are a couple of runs I did earlier followed by a few pages of possible ways to manufacture a break ball, one of which Wei already showed. I do see your point Bob about not getting rid of the 2 if it's your best hope for a break ball. I didn't even see it as a possibility until you mentioned it, so I assumed the 13 would be my best option. I believe I chose options that would keep me safe when attempting a bump. I figured if I didn't bump them, their would still be enough options, though a couple may be a bit more reckless than necessary.
Marop said:
I agree, and I purposely set this one up with no obvious break balls or break ball bumping opportunities. Even though they're not likely to come off, maybe an attempt isn't so bad though, since it's difficult to get into trouble with some of them.
Just a small tidbit of advice for people trying to manufacture a break ball in this layout.
I was taught that if you have something you can work with as a break ball (and here you have that) work towards it.
If you try to get too cute by trying to manufacture a break ball by just contacting one ball (off of a rail), chances are that you will
a) miss the shot and sit down
b) make the shot, but knock the intended break ball anywhere but where you need it - just making this messier than it has to be
In this layout - the 2 ball is already in an acceptable position, none of the other balls really offer much of a chance. From there you need to find a pattern to get you the shot that you need on the 2 ball.
IMO, this far into the rack, you have less to work with - accept what's on the table and move towards getting on that break ball. It's already there, so why take the risk of trying bump into something? IMO, it can only lead to making this layout worse than it already is.
I was taught that if you have something you can work with as a break ball (and here you have that) work towards it.
If you try to get too cute by trying to manufacture a break ball by just contacting one ball (off of a rail), chances are that you will
a) miss the shot and sit down
b) make the shot, but knock the intended break ball anywhere but where you need it - just making this messier than it has to be
In this layout - the 2 ball is already in an acceptable position, none of the other balls really offer much of a chance. From there you need to find a pattern to get you the shot that you need on the 2 ball.
IMO, this far into the rack, you have less to work with - accept what's on the table and move towards getting on that break ball. It's already there, so why take the risk of trying bump into something? IMO, it can only lead to making this layout worse than it already is.
Blackjack said:
Your thoughts are much along the lines of the way I looked at this layout. I personally hit that two rail spot shot well so I liked the 2 as the keyball for the 15 on the spot. but its the same concept of simple out without moving balls. Using the two, for me personally is a very close second to my spotshot, only because I have this fear of scratching easier with the two. It sure is closer to the rack though ....
Criticize away but this is what I would do:
Thanks Jude for posting your layout. I assume you picked out the 10-ball as your break shot from the start, and the 9-ball as the key ball to get to it? There is a lot of cueball movement going on, which I have often done in order to get into zones where there is more than one shot to choose. And you did this here. The only issue I have is the difficulty of getting to the 10-ball break shot angle off of the 9. But that may be because my cueball control isn't reliable enough for that shot.
Also, you may want to check out the new thread I created in this forum called cuetable 101 that quickly shows how to create your entire sequence on one table.
Also, you may want to check out the new thread I created in this forum called cuetable 101 that quickly shows how to create your entire sequence on one table.
bluepepper said:
I actually discussed my sequence with another forum member. He had some interesting things to say about it. I guess I'm a bit fearful of shooting break-shots like the 2-ball which is why I shy away from it. I just see myself scratching. The fact is, the 2-ball is very well lined up to hit the top of the stack which makes for a good break. I chose the 10-ball because yes, it feels doable for me but perhaps as I continue to play more 14.1, my preferences will change.