Run This (67)

[Steve Lipsky]

I was faced with something like this the other day. What to do??

I know there is at least one clear solution. There may be more, of course.

CueTable Help

- Steve

 

[Marop]

I was faced with something like this the other day. What to do??

I know there is at least one clear solution. There may be more, of course.

CueTable Help

- Steve

4 in the corner, stop and shoot the 10 in the side, float up for the 7 in the lower left corner, slight draw, six in the side, stop shot on the 3 in the side or slight draw back for the desired angle on the 1.

You don't have to touch any rails.

 

[justnum]

Id like to help but could you translate the positions of the ball on the table into a coordinate system. By processing the information in such a way I hope to exploit the statics of the situation.

 

[terhje]

4 in the corner, stop and shoot the 10 in the side, float up for the 7 in the lower left corner, slight draw, six in the side, stop shot on the 3 in the side or slight draw back for the desired angle on the 1.

You don't have to touch any rails.

1 would work.
alittle more stop stop on your pattern marop to minimize cueball movement even more.

CueTable Help

 

[dmgwalsh]

I like 4,10,6,7,3

 

[mjantti]

I like 4,10,6,7,3

I like this more, it has very little cueball movement and you are pretty much guaranteed to get straight on the 7 from the 6. If you shoot 10 and try to get on the 7 you easily get into trouble if you don't finish straight enough for the 7. Especially when the situation is tense, those floating position shots are far from easy if you need precise position.

I also see 10, 6 and drift to get straight on the 4, stop on 4, 7 in the corner with follow and then stop on the 3. But this involves a long 7 so not recommended while there are much easier outs.

 

[Steve Lipsky]

One of you had it generally correct, but missing the true key to the out. In fact, he actually went out of his way to avoid something, that, well, he should have just let be.

Sorry for the cryptic nature of this post, but I don't want to give anything away for those who still haven't seen this. (Sorry- you'll see the first ball I shoot in the below diagram.)

I think it's important to note that this position didn't just "come up" in a game. I played to leave these balls for this end pattern, because there really wasn't anything resembling a breakshot for most of the rack. I've learned to look for a specific group of three balls that come up over and over again (they are in diagrams 2-3-4 of my layout below), and once I saw it, the execution was easy.

CueTable Help

- Steve

 

[Danny Barouty]

Outside the box...

Heads up bumping that ball down. I was looking at shooting the 7 first then the 10 but your way seems simpler, thus probably better. Improving the position at almost no risk seems very reasonable. Did I see you play this recently, like in a game against moi.

 

[Chris_Lynch]

Great post Steve. I think a lot of us are trained to not bump into balls once they are open but this is a perfect example of when it is beneficial to bump them and not take any risk. I didn't see this initially and I don't usually dog it from the chair. Too early in the day for me I guess.

 

[Steve Lipsky]

Heads up bumping that ball down. I was looking at shooting the 7 first then the 10 but your way seems simpler, thus probably better. Improving the position at almost no risk seems very reasonable. Did I see you play this recently, like in a game against moi.

Yes, Danny, this was against you on Saturday....

 

[dmgwalsh]

I think it's important to note that this position didn't just "come up" in a game. I played to leave these balls for this end pattern, because there really wasn't anything resembling a breakshot for most of the rack. I've learned to look for a specific group of three balls that come up over and over again (they are in diagrams 2-3-4 of my layout below), and once I saw it, the execution was easy.


- Steve

Very nice. You improved the break ball without risk.

Are the three balls you mentioned the 7,10 and 1? ( Because the 7 gives you a place from which to hit the 10 and bump the one.)

or are they the 10, 6 and 1? (Because after you bump, you better have an insurance ball)

I've seen Schmidt in some of his videos get on the balls a certain way to make one in the side and bump down a break shot or bump up a key shot.

Us patzers hope to just be able to somehow navigate the rack and somehow remain at the table.:wink:

 

[Steve Lipsky]

Good question Dennis. It's the 7-10-1. An insurance ball is definitely needed, but it's really an afterthought. First, and most importantly, I need to see that I have a ball to stop on and get perfect on the 10. This is the key to the sequence.

Once I have that, it's simply a matter of seeing whether I'll have a ball to shoot after the bump. That's a yes or no question, and if the answer is no, then I can't play the pattern. Basically as simple as that.

- Steve

 

[terhje]

yes good 1! didnt think about bumping that 1 at all. like it!ty

 

[Jaden]

I would shoot the ten first...

I would shoot a stop shot on the ten, a stop shot on the six, the seven in the corner with a little follow. A slight draw shot on the four and then a stop shot on the three, with shape for the breakout after the one.

Jaden.

 

[Levi]

Proper run?

I would shoot the 4 with a slight draw then shoot the ten and stop, then shoot the 6 with very small follow then shoot the 3 and stop and break with the 1.

Steve... this is Richard Molineiro owner from Big Daddy's Billiards in Glen Burnie, MD. I'm trying to advance some more. Does my approach sound right?

 

[tommyboy14]

It's cool how everyone sees it different.... I would shoot the 10-6-7-4-3

 

[dmgwalsh]

I would shoot the 4 with a slight draw then shoot the ten and stop, then shoot the 6 with very small follow then shoot the 3 and stop and break with the 1.

You missed the 7.

But look at Steve's solution contained in post #7. Click on the next pages in the cuetable. It's a little different than most of us expected.

 

[Steve Lipsky]

I would shoot the 4 with a slight draw then shoot the ten and stop, then shoot the 6 with very small follow then shoot the 3 and stop and break with the 1.

Steve... this is Richard Molineiro owner from Big Daddy's Billiards in Glen Burnie, MD. I'm trying to advance some more. Does my approach sound right?

Hey Richard! Nice to hear from you, and welcome to the forum. As Dennis mentioned, it looks like you overlooked the 7 ball .

As to the replies, I must say I'm shocked by the reliance on the 1 (without moving it). I set this ball up today on a real table, and it's really high. You'd have to get dead perfect on it and even then you'd have to hit it hard. As if that weren't enough, you really need to hit the very top of the stack on this shot - hitting either of the sides is brimming with scratch risk.

In my opinion, the only three legitimate break balls on the table are the 1 (and only if moved), the 3 in the upper side, and the 7 in the upper side. The 7 is actually a strong break shot and position on it can be achieved quite easily off the 6 in the lower side.

The lesson here, if you agree with me, is that too-high balls should barely even be considered, regardless if they are off to the side of the rack in a "traditional" area. If you can't find a way to bump them down, you should look to find something else.

- Steve

 

[Mike_Mason]

I don't see the need to go fooling around trying to move the 1-ball...that's just looking for trouble...it's fine where it is.

The 7-ball is fine where it is too...I would pop that in right now to the upper right corner...then shoot 4,10,6,3...and I expect to have a good angle on the 1-ball.

Someone mentioned that the cue ball would hit the rack high off the 1-ball break shot...that's fine by me.

Well it is interesting to see how players see things differently and play to their strengths...which is the key in most situations...play to your strengths.

Mike

 

[sjm]

I think what you did is best here. Other possible ideas are:

1) 6-3-7-4-10 to get nice tight shape on the one in the corner for the break shot.
2) many patterns finishing with the four ball can give you ball in hand on the three ball for your next breakout
3) many patterns finishing with the ten ball can leave the one in the side as a good break shot

Still, the virtually risk-free bump of the one ball you found shows insight and good judgment. Knowing when and when not to bump object balls is one of the trademarks of superior straight poolers, yourself included.