Screw boring

WilleeCue said:
Yeah ... I Agree ... drilling is much faster than boring ...:thumbup:
YUP.
....:grin:
 

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manwon said:
Well this is pretty BORING thread Joey:thumbup: !!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, no mudslinging and peeing contest.
I mill holes now instead of boring.
Pretty damn accurate.
 
Screw Boring

Joey
Pretty solid looking set up. You run this idea by your shop instructor.
Works great as long as the end mill is perfectly aligned and the router has zero run out. I'm a big fan of live tooling, but there is no free lunch.
 
Pictures kill me. Everything is always sooooo clean.. I just moved and my shop isn't that clean. lol good luck
 
Nice set up Joey!

Don't end mills cut from their side though? Chatter and can walk?
because they have no point to line up with your spotted center??

I drill, bore, finish bore with my thread mill, and then mill the threads when installing my pins!! Shhhhhhhhhhhh..:eek:
 
Poulos Cues said:
Nice set up Joey!

Don't end mills cut from their side though? Chatter and can walk?
because they have no point to line up with your spotted center??

I drill, bore, finish bore with my thread mill, and then mill the threads when installing my pins!! Shhhhhhhhhhhh..:eek:

OK ... why do you go to the trouble of boring the hole to get the greatest accuracy then reduce that accuracy by threading it.
Would it not be more accurate to bore the hole for a tight fit to the outside diameter of the pin?
 
cutter said:
Joey
Pretty solid looking set up. You run this idea by your shop instructor.
Works great as long as the end mill is perfectly aligned and the router has zero run out. I'm a big fan of live tooling, but there is no free lunch.
The cutter is .250 and I had the back reliefed to .220.
The shank is still 1/4.
I bored a 2 inche deep hole thru on that test piece and measured the holes on both ends.
Dead .312.
There's a lot more to this than that picture shows of course. Like location and setup for the pin installation.
 
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Poulos Cues said:
Nice set up Joey!

Don't end mills cut from their side though? Chatter and can walk?
because they have no point to line up with your spotted center??

I drill, bore, finish bore with my thread mill, and then mill the threads when installing my pins!! Shhhhhhhhhhhh..:eek:
It's bottom cutting mill.
My radial pin has .371 barrel by 1.125 long.
I bore .3125 by 2.25 deep, then bore the hole for the alignment barrel then tap.
The bottom threads on the radial pin is only actually .364 OD.
I can mill 3/8 10 or 11 tpi too.
 
WilleeCue said:
OK ... why do you go to the trouble of boring the hole to get the greatest accuracy then reduce that accuracy by threading it.
Would it not be more accurate to bore the hole for a tight fit to the outside diameter of the pin?
The live threader does not reduce that hole size though Willee.
 
Poulos Cues said:
Nice set up Joey!

Don't end mills cut from their side though? Chatter and can walk?
because they have no point to line up with your spotted center??

I drill, bore, finish bore with my thread mill, and then mill the threads when installing my pins!! Shhhhhhhhhhhh..:eek:
I think they are called end mills because they will mill with the ends as well as the sides. All that is needed there is a few thousands tilt to the left and it should cut great.
 
JoeyInCali said:
..............................
joey, that beats a BORING SCREW anyday :wink:
i been boring all my holes with my router for several months now
it works great
i recently got an extra long 1/4" bit, goes in about 2.25" , have to check for sure, goes deep enough for a pin
until then i was going as deep as i could with a standard bit, then finishing up the depth with a drill bit.
 
That's great.

As long there is no chuck run out, no router runout, perfect alignment, perfect toolpost setting, and the right size bit, you can get a hole as accurate as a boring bar. Of course a boring bar might be easier.
 
cueman said:
I think they are called end mills because they will mill with the ends as well as the sides. All that is needed there is a few thousands tilt to the left and it should cut great.
Thanks Chris.
Just to be sure, I had the back end ground down a little.

Also the runout on my 6-jaw chuck is less than half a thou.
 
WilleeCue said:
OK ... why do you go to the trouble of boring the hole to get the greatest accuracy then reduce that accuracy by threading it.
Would it not be more accurate to bore the hole for a tight fit to the outside diameter of the pin?
Actually, this would be for the flat bottom 3/8-11 pin (or 3/8-10 flat bottom) when requested. I use Radial pins and have 2 cutters ground to mill the threads for this pin.:)

Joey- .250 cutter/end mill gets you a .312 hole???
 
Poulos Cues said:
Joey- .250 cutter/end mill gets you a .312 hole???
Yes, I drill it with a quarter bit.
Fit the mill, then back out. Away from the face, with an indicator I pull the bit towards me.
Slowest speed of the chuck and slow power feed, I take it to .300.
Then another .010 and a final .002 pass.
CLEAN hole.
 
Poulos Cues said:
Actually, this would be for the flat bottom 3/8-11 pin (or 3/8-10 flat bottom) when requested. I use Radial pins and have 2 cutters ground to mill the threads for this pin.:)

Joey- .250 cutter/end mill gets you a .312 hole???
WAIT!!! :( :) :-0
Did you say you have a radial mill cutter/threader?
3/8 7.5 or 8????
There is no 7.5 tpi on my lathe.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Yes, I drill it with a quarter bit.
Fit the mill, then back out. Away from the face, with an indicator I pull the bit towards me.
Slowest speed of the chuck and slow power feed, I take it to .300.
Then another .010 and a final .002 pass.
CLEAN hole.

super clean holes :)
this is what i am using

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140237857373&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=004

like joey says, work crossfeed towards you to get to size
i use a small pc of drill rod undersized .002" to test fit
 
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