Seal after every cut?

Mr Hoppe

Mr Hoppe

Sawdust maker
Silver Member
I just watched Joe Barringer's DVD series on cue building, and noticed that every time he takes a pass on a forearm, handle, or butt sleeve, he immediately seals the piece with CA when he's done. He does this no matter the material also, i.e. he performs the same proceedure on ebony, purple heart, maple, etc. Does anyone else find it necessary to seal the piece every time they take a pass?

Thanks.
Mr H
 
i seal some Burls or any wood that is prone to developing cracks,Snakewood for instance.in the past i have sealed Pink Ivory,Olivewood and Camatillo but i think it was being over-cautious.
 
masonh said:
i seal some Burls or any wood that is prone to developing cracks,Snakewood for instance.in the past i have sealed Pink Ivory,Olivewood and Camatillo but i think it was being over-cautious.
Click to expand...
Agreed, but he's sealing ph and maple too. I'm wondering if it has to do with the humid climate where he's located in Florida. Am I correct in assuming that this is not necessary for all woods?
 
imo,you are correct.maybe he just likes sealing them while they are spinning.it is kind of fun.:D
 
I personally can't see any reason for all of that sealing. In my mind the whole idea of taking a cut & letting it rest is to expose the materials to the air where it can acclimate with the surounding air. Sealing or using chemicals between cuttings goes against the whole process, in my opinion. I do use CA over the tips of inlays & points. This seems to keep the ends of the points from lifting. The rest of the Q is left to the good ol Illinois air...JER
 
Mr Hoppe said:
I just watched Joe Barringer's DVD series on cue building, and noticed that every time he takes a pass on a forearm, handle, or butt sleeve, he immediately seals the piece with CA when he's done. He does this no matter the material also, i.e. he performs the same proceedure on ebony, purple heart, maple, etc. Does anyone else find it necessary to seal the piece every time they take a pass?

Thanks.
Mr H
Click to expand...

I seal in the same way, It keeps the wood clean. If you have a black phenolic collar on a maple forearm the black sanding dust will stain the maple. The maple dust stains the phenolic. The CA seals the pores quickly and prevents headaches later.
 
Sealing after each cut

Every time I turn a piece of wood, I apply sanding sealer not CA. It may be overkill, but I've always done it. The thought behind it is to slow (not stop) the process of moisture transfer (in or out). Wood will always take on or give off moisture to reach an equilibrium. You can't stop that, but, IMHO, it's when this change is too abrupt that you have problems. Just my $.02 worth.
 
Bill the Cat said:
Every time I turn a piece of wood, I apply sanding sealer not CA. It may be overkill, but I've always done it. The thought behind it is to slow (not stop) the process of moisture transfer (in or out). Wood will always take on or give off moisture to reach an equilibrium. You can't stop that, but, IMHO, it's when this change is too abrupt that you have problems. Just my $.02 worth.
Click to expand...

I feel stupid, I went through all that detail and could of just called it a sanding sealer.
I've tried other methods and find CA to be quick and simple. The odor sucks but it's dry in a minute.
Another benefit to CA is it soaks into the wood and keeps the points from chipping out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top