shaft edge to contact point
- Thread starter cleary
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Copied that. It's easy to stand behind the OB and see the contact point that sends it straight to the pocket. Keeping that spot in focus while you move from behind the OB to behind the CB, unless it's s small angle like 15° or less, is just too unreliable. Maybe that's the wrong word..... difficult to do with repeated precision would be a better way to put it.
If by "lines" you mean "shot angles" that is an ideal visualization.
But it should be conceptually easier to see a line running to, say, the contact point, than one point only.
But it should be conceptually easier to see a line running to, say, the contact point, than one point only.
You don't need to leave the center of the cueball. Your cue's center should line up straight through the center of the cueball. You would use the inside edge to aim at the contact point, but your cue should be dead center.
If you want to use english, you can and it works as well (with low deflection shafts, not exactly with extreme english).
Shafts have tapers.
Which part of the shaft is aimed ? lol
Dave Mullins Ultimate Aiming System video came out eons ago.
He aimed the side of the ferrule.
And in his video, he shoots ducks and would have missed if he had more distance to the pocket.
All these magic aiming systems still end up to one thing.
You have to visualize the two balls colliding for cue ball control.
And some peeps will deny they don't do that, but I ain't buying .
Which part of the shaft is aimed ? lol
Dave Mullins Ultimate Aiming System video came out eons ago.
He aimed the side of the ferrule.
And in his video, he shoots ducks and would have missed if he had more distance to the pocket.
All these magic aiming systems still end up to one thing.
You have to visualize the two balls colliding for cue ball control.
And some peeps will deny they don't do that, but I ain't buying .
From my vantage point, I don't really notice the shaft having a taper. Sure, if I look down the cue from the end of the butt, I'll see it, but not while I'm down on a shot. Maybe my bridge is shorter than yours? But honestly, maybe you're over thinking it? If you want me to be literal, I guess you could draw a straight line in your mind from the joint, through the edge of your tip into the contact point on the object ball.
If this is something you're interested in, I would suggest trying it. If it's not and you don't need the system then no need.
This system, you have to know the contact point. From there, you know which way the cueball will be traveling. I'm not really visualize the two balls colliding other than just the exact point they should touch. From there, you draw a line from that point to the pocket (that's how you know the contact point) and a perpendicular line for the tangent line.
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For beginners:
Assuming that the center of the cue tip is aimed at the center of the CB, then sighting down the side/edge of the shaft would be 1/2 the diameter of the tip to the side of the center of the CB.
If the tip has a diameter of 1/2 inch, then the shaft side would be 1/4 inch to the side of the center. This is a constant so it would only work perfectly for one cut angle only - where the contact point on the OB is 1/4 inch to the side of the center of the OB. This would send the CB 1/4 inch to the outside of the CP on the OB and is one of the cut angles that abides by the double distance aiming method/system.
You need less than 1/2 tip for thicker cut angles and more than 1/2 tip for thinner cut angles.
Aim the side of the shaft at the center of the OB and see what cut angle it achieves. So you obviously wouldn't use the side of the shaft for a straight in shot - use the center.
If you can imagine or visualize the contact point on the OB, then use the double distance method/system unless the CB and OB are very close together.
Assuming that the center of the cue tip is aimed at the center of the CB, then sighting down the side/edge of the shaft would be 1/2 the diameter of the tip to the side of the center of the CB.
If the tip has a diameter of 1/2 inch, then the shaft side would be 1/4 inch to the side of the center. This is a constant so it would only work perfectly for one cut angle only - where the contact point on the OB is 1/4 inch to the side of the center of the OB. This would send the CB 1/4 inch to the outside of the CP on the OB and is one of the cut angles that abides by the double distance aiming method/system.
You need less than 1/2 tip for thicker cut angles and more than 1/2 tip for thinner cut angles.
Aim the side of the shaft at the center of the OB and see what cut angle it achieves. So you obviously wouldn't use the side of the shaft for a straight in shot - use the center.
If you can imagine or visualize the contact point on the OB, then use the double distance method/system unless the CB and OB are very close together.