Shaft Maintenance

Ken_4fun

Ken_4fun

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Wow, just used Magic Eraser and followed it up with Butchers Clear Paste Wax, and the shaft is back to 100%.

While we have discussed this 1000s of times, it is really nice to be able to use something really inexpensive and does a great job.

I highly recommend it to all my AZ brothers.

Ken:smile:
 
Ken_4fun said:
Wow, just used Magic Eraser and followed it up with Butchers Clear Paste Wax, and the shaft is back to 100%.

While we have discussed this 1000s of times, it is really nice to be able to use something really inexpensive and does a great job.

I highly recommend it to all my AZ brothers.

Ken:smile:
Click to expand...

1000% agree...ME is da bomb!!! :thumbup:

Lisa
 
Ken_4fun said:
Wow, just used Magic Eraser and followed it up with Butchers Clear Paste Wax, and the shaft is back to 100%.

While we have discussed this 1000s of times, it is really nice to be able to use something really inexpensive and does a great job.

I highly recommend it to all my AZ brothers.

Ken:smile:
Click to expand...


I also agree that Magic eraser does work very well, but I am not a fan of any kind of wax. Wax attracts dirt and will become gummy over time, I would recommend a sanding sealer in place of the wax, Minwax make a very good product called sanding sealer. It should be applied wearing rubber gloves with a paper towel, and then wiped off immediately and then the shaft should be burnished.

It will attract no dirt, and it will seal and make the shaft as smooth as a babies ass and it will require less work over time.

JIMO
 
manwon said:
I also agree that Magic eraser does work very well, but I am not a fan of any kind of wax. Wax attracts dirt and will become gummy over time, I would recommend a sanding sealer in place of the wax, Minwax make a very good product called sanding sealer. It should be applied wearing rubber gloves with a paper towel, and then wiped off immediately and then the shaft should be burnished.

It will attract no dirt, and it will seal and make the shaft as smooth as a babies ass and it will require less work over time.

JIMO
Click to expand...

I am guessing a lathe is required or can that be done without?

Lisa
 
manwon said:
I also agree that Magic eraser does work very well, but I am not a fan of any kind of wax. Wax attracts dirt and will become gummy over time, I would recommend a sanding sealer in place of the wax, Minwax make a very good product called sanding sealer. It should be applied wearing rubber gloves with a paper towel, and then wiped off immediately and then the shaft should be burnished.

It will attract no dirt, and it will seal and make the shaft as smooth as a babies ass and it will require less work over time.

JIMO
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JIMO, -

Not trying to convince you or argue. The above is what I use for my shafts. Magic Eraser is cheap, and very effective.

Butchers clear paste wax has never felt gummy to me, and I have been told that Gus Szamboti used it on his cues as a sealer. I guess if it is good enough for Gus Szamboti, its good enough for me...:rolleyes:

I wish you the best of rolls.

Ken
 
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Ken, I always have about 6 boxes of no name eraser in the shop. If you can find the no name brand anywhere, it will probably work for you as good as the more expensive brand name. I use the wax from a cue supplier which is basically the same as Q wax. I've never found it to be sticky. As some players treat their shaft once a week and allow the wax to build up a few layers, when they clean and sand, they are only taking a small layer of wax off and replacing it.

As Craig mentioned, you'd also be amazed at the finish you get from a good sanding sealer like Min Wax. It goes on thin and you could probably wipe it on without having to use a lathe. Sometimes I use wax and other times, sanding sealer. Depends on what mood I'm in.
I probably will order a can of Butchers myself someday.
Terry.
Lisa, to answer your question /\/\/\/\
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
Ken, I always have about 6 boxes of no name eraser in the shop. If you can find the no name brand anywhere, it will probably work for you as good as the more expensive brand name. I use the wax from a cue supplier which is basically the same as Q wax. I've never found it to be sticky. As some players treat their shaft once a week and allow the wax to build up a few layers, when they clean and sand, they are only taking a small layer of wax off and replacing it.

As Craig mentioned, you'd also be amazed at the finish you get from a good sanding sealer like Min Wax. It goes on thin and you could probably wipe it on without having to use a lathe. Sometimes I use wax and other times, sanding sealer. Depends on what mood I'm in.
I probably will order a can of Butchers myself someday.
Terry.
Lisa, to answer your question /\/\/\/\
Click to expand...


Thank you!
 
manwon said:
I also agree that Magic eraser does work very well, but I am not a fan of any kind of wax. Wax attracts dirt and will become gummy over time, I would recommend a sanding sealer in place of the wax, Minwax make a very good product called sanding sealer. It should be applied wearing rubber gloves with a paper towel, and then wiped off immediately and then the shaft should be burnished.

It will attract no dirt, and it will seal and make the shaft as smooth as a babies ass and it will require less work over time.

JIMO
Click to expand...

I use both Manwon. Depends on what the person wants. I read on a cuemakers thread on here along time ago to mix 4 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part of Minwax sanding sealer. Any thuth to that? I like the wax feel myself but in South Carolina it does get sticky/gummy fast and yes I know how to apply it in light coats and let it dry. It's a humidity thang! Alot of people like the bare wood feel but humidity is worse. Depends on the person I guess. Ron
 
I usually wipe my shaft after each playing sessioon with a paper towel followed by wiping with a dry section of Magic Eraser. For the past year I've been using Butcher's Bowling Alley wax on my shaft an apply it about once a month or so. I haven't noticed any dirt build-up or gumminess. I recently purchased a used Schon and cleaned the shaft with alcohol and Magic Eraser. It's like new. I've read some posts by Manwon and respect his opinion. He's a pretty savvy guy. I'll keep the Minwax sealer in mind and will probably try it. But for now, I'm satisfied with the ME and wax.
 
sk8ordie said:
I use both Manwon. Depends on what the person wants. I read on a cuemakers thread on here along time ago to mix 4 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part of Minwax sanding sealer. Any thuth to that? I like the wax feel myself but in South Carolina it does get sticky/gummy fast and yes I know how to apply it in light coats and let it dry. It's a humidity thang! Alot of people like the bare wood feel but humidity is worse. Depends on the person I guess. Ron
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Ron, I do not dilute it with anything I use it straight out of the can. Now I do spin it on the lath, but it could certainly be applied by hand using the same method and then just burnished by hand. It really seals the surface of the wood very well and in my opinion it last longer than anything else between applications. I first started using it when customers came in and wanted their cue shaft sealed because their hands sweat. It is amazing how bad this problem in for many people, hell you can look at a pool table they are playing on and see sweaty hand prints on the cloth. For these people after playing for a short time their cue shaft would have the grain raised because of the moisture getting into the wood.

For place that have a lot of moisture in the air or for people who have the problem with sweaty hands the sanding sealer will work pretty well but in some cases nothing will help short of wiping their cue shaft down with a towel between shots. I also use to only use wax, and the butcher product is a good product, but wax doesn't work well in all environments and for all people like I listed above. So I have started only using the sanding sealer which I believe works better than anything else available currently. But, like I said in my first post, it is important to wear gloves when applying it.

Take Care
 
manwon said:
I also agree that Magic eraser does work very well, but I am not a fan of any kind of wax. Wax attracts dirt and will become gummy over time, I would recommend a sanding sealer in place of the wax, Minwax make a very good product called sanding sealer. It should be applied wearing rubber gloves with a paper towel, and then wiped off immediately and then the shaft should be burnished.

It will attract no dirt, and it will seal and make the shaft as smooth as a babies ass and it will require less work over time.

JIMO
Click to expand...

Bingo!!

No wax's or polish's permitted! None! They ALL leave residue that gets sticky.

I've tried everything, every product that's been mentioned on this site and the CCB in the last 10 years, every single one, and I've got'm in the cabinet drawing dust. And in the cabinet is where they'll stay, unless I give'm away to somebody who won't listen.

Save your money! Nothing makes shafts slicker than burnishing.

Clean. Seal. Burnish... and burnish... and burnish... and burnish! I hit mine 50 strokes with leather every day after practice.
 
JimS said:
Bingo!!

No wax's or polish's permitted! None! They ALL leave residue that gets sticky.

I've tried everything, every product that's been mentioned on this site and the CCB in the last 10 years, every single one, and I've got'm in the cabinet drawing dust. And in the cabinet is where they'll stay, unless I give'm away to somebody who won't listen.

Save your money! Nothing makes shafts slicker than burnishing.

Clean. Seal. Burnish... and burnish... and burnish... and burnish! I hit mine 50 strokes with leather every day after practice.
Click to expand...

I second and third that!!!!! I also use both methods, it just depends on what the customer wants.

IMHO the best way is with sealer. Make sure you put it on thin, because there is a fine line of getting too much on. Too much will make it feel like a clear coat. Just like everything, until you have experience, it will be a trial and error process.

I have also noticed that some shafts take wax different depending on the grain structure and age. Certain shafts just soak it up, which will feel gummy quicker. These are the shafts that actually benefit from sealing them. If you seal the grain it will also resist warping in humid environments.

If you don't have access to a lathe go to atlas billiards or ebay and buy a "Maintenance arbor" that will fit your shaft and use a power drill. It will save you some time and elbow grease, and will only set you back about $20.
 
I have never tried using the ME's yet, but once a week I will use some meguiars carnuba plus. I put it on and let it sit for 10 minutes, buff off the excess with a paper towel. It feels pretty good after that, but then I use one of those maintenance arbors with a porpers burnishing pad for a minute or two (gets pretty warm!) and the shaft is incredibly smooth. I wonder if the burnishing pad removes the wax or if I even need the wax. Inbetween waxings there is no buildup of dirt or anything, I just like doing that as a preventative measure, and I play 10-15 hrs a week. I think I am about 30% convinced that the wax does something, but I am 100% convinced that burnishing is beneficial. Oh yeah, and the arbor makes the whole process so easy.

Corey
 
I hit mine 50 strokes with leather every day after practice.
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I knew a girl that liked it that way too.

If anyone is going to try sanding sealer, there are 2 kinds. An oil based and one that has acrylic in it. Not saying that the acrylic won't work as I haven't tried it. Just so you guys know there are 2. The acrylic might give it a super shine as the water based acrylic urethane
finishes do.
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
I knew a girl that liked it that way too.

If anyone is going to try sanding sealer, there are 2 kinds. An oil based and one that has acrylic in it. Not saying that the acrylic won't work as I haven't tried it. Just so you guys know there are 2. The acrylic might give it a super shine as the water based acrylic urethane
finishes do.
Click to expand...



Did she have an echo!!!!:D
 
has anyone ever tryed fast orange with pumice hand cleaner.I USED IT FOREVER ,WORKS GREAT ,CLEANS FERRULE & SHAFT LIKE NEW.WIPE OFF WITH CLEAN RAG & SMOOTH WITH A PIECE OF LEATHER COST 2 BUCKS 16OZ! SMOOTH AS A BABY BUTT!
 
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