Shaft Wax ( Discussing methods of shaft maintenace )

[FranCrimi]

Yup in less your hands temp runs 170 degrees. the wax should never get soft enough to get on your hands...........................

Melting point on carnauba wax is 170 degrees, and it is the hardest known natural wax.

it is also known for being able to put many coats of wax on and it will not flake.

All of this info was posted in the opening thread.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax
Did you even read the opening post ?

I posted the link for the carnauba wax so everyone can educate themselves if they wish too ..............

If you don't get something then I there is only a few options .
#1 Research it until you understand it, ( read books, Google it . go to school general educational tools .)
#2 Or be willing ignorant and not research it and scuff at the people who have or who are researching the different kinds of waxes and form some kind of educated guess on whether or not they chose to use wax on they cue shaft and if they do what wax might do the best job.

Because you said you don't get, It kind of leaves the option out of your happy with the way your shaft is now and you don't wish to make any changes regardless if wax would help or not.

I see the pro's wearing gloves and bridge hand friction is a major issue with some or most serous players.

Personally I want a smooth stroke with the least possible friction.

Wow, you must really be an incredible wax expert.

I've been around a little, and yes, I'm somewhat familiar, in my ignorant way, with waxing shafts. What I don't get is why people like it.

So you're saying that wax has to melt before you can feel it on a shaft? Let me reword that: So you're saying that wax has to melt before you can feel it on your hands from the shaft? What does 'melt' mean? Pure liquid or semi-solid? I'm thinking you mean pure liquid, right?

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Knowledge

Wow, you must really be an incredible wax expert.

I've been around a little, and yes, I'm somewhat familiar, in my ignorant way, with waxing shafts. What I don't get is why people like it.

So you're saying that wax has to melt before you can feel it on a shaft? Let me reword that: So you're saying that wax has to melt before you can feel it on your hands from the shaft? What does 'melt' mean? Pure liquid or semi-solid? I'm thinking you mean pure liquid, right?

Also in the first post I said I am no expert, I do wish you would read the first post and read the link about Carnauba wax.

As said over and over the melting point of carnauba wax is 170 degrees F.
The temp of your hands is 71. degrees less.
I have used carnauba wax for years and have never had the problem of the wax getting on my hands that I have noticed.

If you ( know ) certain waxes are going to dissolve and get on your hands.
Then please post what brand of wax you have had problems with and please recommend your method of maintaining cue shafts ..

Personally I haven't had the problem of any of the waxes getting on my hands.
But I am not you and granted there are many ways to maintain a cue shaft and wax may not be the answer.
So far wax has been working good to ok, but if I can make my cue shaft even more slicker or if I don't have to wax or maintain my cue shaft as often then I would like to know which products works the best.

Please note that I haven't had the problem with the wax dissolving and getting on my hands.
Point being is it seems to be more of your problem and if you want to research out a product that will help then this thread might help you.
If you don't want to research it out for ( yourself ) then this conversation is redundant.

I would like to be able to discuss different products and technics to clean and maintain a clean smooth friction free cue shaft without making the shaft dia smaller.
Not to give a opinion on who is or is not serous player , and then to make a statement like serous players would never use wax on the cue shaft.

This is not the if you see me using wax on my Shaft kick my @ss kill my dogs and rape my wife thread .

 

[TommyT]

Hey Mike,
I have done a similar test to yours. I found that Renaissance wax is best. It dries very fast and is easy to quickly build up coats. It seems to be the most durable too. I find the scent to be pleasant. I also use it on the butt of the cue for extra protection. It actually works really nicely on lizard wraps.

I agree with all the above.....works great for all parts of the cue including leather wraps.

 

[Nuts4Tascarellas]

heads up

Just a heads up on questions of durability. The only warning on Renaissance wax reviews and studies is that it can be hard to remove. It is the only wax that is not dissolved by alcohol also. Many of us use alcohol to clean our cues (especially Predator because that is the only approved way to clean their shafts and not void the warranty). I spin my cue on the lathe and wipe it with 91 percent isopropyl alcohol. The wax that was previously applied just becomes clean and refreshed. Then I apply one more thin coat of Renaissance wax and I'm ready to go. My player is a Tascarella - I wouldn't trust it to any other product!

 

[2strong4u]

I just picked up 200 ml Reniassance Wax off ebay for under 21 bucks delivered. Gonna see how it works.

I see people use thus to restore a soft sheen to vintage house cues. I like to buy old 1 piece cues off ebay, clean them up, replace tips and ferrules. Refinishing them lightly with this product may have good results versus stripping and refinishing.

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Info

I just picked up 200 ml Reniassance Wax off ebay for under 21 bucks delivered. Gonna see how it works.

I see people use thus to restore a soft sheen to vintage house cues. I like to buy old 1 piece cues off ebay, clean them up, replace tips and ferrules. Refinishing them lightly with this product may have good results versus stripping and refinishing.

a little info

The #1 choice of museums, galleries and professionals worldwide!

Renaissance Wax was originally developed in the British Museum in the 1950's to clean, restore and protect valuable museum objects, art and collectibles. Today it is used to protect and enhance a variety of surfaces: furniture, sculptures, porcelain, knives, fine art, leather, all metals, wood, and much more.

What makes Renaissance Wax different?
Renaissance Wax has a crystalline structure much finer than totally natural waxes, which makes it more efficient at resisting moisture. When thinly applied and rubbed out to full luster, the wax film is (and remains) glass-clear, with no discoloration either of the wax or the underlying surface. Free from all acids, it's pH neutral, so it won't damage sensitive materials. It can be used on virtually any surface, even paper. A little goes a long way, and also lasts a long time. It freshens colors, does not show finger marks and imparts a soft sheen.

On furniture and other wood items the wax enhances the grain patterns. It even protects existing finishes and can be applied directly to sanded, unfinished wood without need of sealers. The clarity and luster of Renaissance Wax gives it an instant visual appeal and the smooth finish will also protect polished surfaces against fingerprints and damage from spills.

Available in 65 ml size (approximately 2.2 oz.) and 200 ml size (approximately 6.76 oz.) sizes.

Application Instructions:
Apply sparingly with a soft cloth and buff gently. Dries hard instantly.

 

[Str8PoolPlayer]

And how much, fine Sir, is that Big Can gonna set me back ? You know how tight I am with a dollar.

 

[chuckpilegis]

And how much, fine Sir, is that Big Can gonna set me back ? You know how tight I am with a dollar.

19.40 at amazon

 

[Sloppy Pockets]

I've been around a little, and yes, I'm somewhat familiar, in my ignorant way, with waxing shafts. What I don't get is why people like it.

I use straight carnuba wax right off the bar. I apply it by rubbing it vigorously onto a square of brown paper, then using a heat gun (hair dryer works) to melt it into the paper. Then I burnish the shaft real hard with the wax-laden paper, allowing the built-up heat from the friction to transfer a thin film of wax onto the wood.

Why do I like it? Because it makes the shaft slip through my bridge fingers like silk, without having to use powder or wear a glove, and it protects the shaft from a lot of chalk dust, and even from wear. My bridge hand can be an ugly blue mess at times, but my shaft has barely a hint of a blue patina on it, and I haven't waxed it in weeks.

If wax was wearing off onto my hand, it wouldn't still be on the stick protecting it. Unless maybe I used some of that new Russian Magic Wax.

 

[Sloppy Pockets]

This is not the if you see me using wax on my Shaft kick my @ss kill my dogs and rape my wife thread .

No, that one's over on the NPR forum.

Thanks for the info on the Renaissance wax. We used to sell it when I worked at Woodcraft Supply, and some very experienced customers swore by it. I was never a big fan of waxes in my musical instrument restoration work because of the problems they present doing touchups after future repairs. Therefore, I never paid much attention to which ones were better.

After I started turning I began to use waxes for the final finish on my bowls. That's when I found out about the carnuba bar wax. I still don't have a cue lathe, but my method works well enough to get a thin, hard film on the shaft. If you say the Renaissance wax works better than carnuba, I'm up for trying it. Sounds like a lot less work at any rate.

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Slick

No, that one's over on the NPR forum.

Thanks for the info on the Renaissance wax. We used to sell it when I worked at Woodcraft Supply, and some very experienced customers swore by it. I was never a big fan of waxes in my musical instrument restoration work because of the problems they present doing touchups after future repairs. Therefore, I never paid much attention to which ones were better.

After I started turning I began to use waxes for the final finish on my bowls. That's when I found out about the carnuba bar wax. I still don't have a cue lathe, but my method works well enough to get a thin, hard film on the shaft. If you say the Renaissance wax works better than carnuba, I'm up for trying it. Sounds like a lot less work at any rate.

It is my personal opinion that the Renaissance wax is slightly slicker then the carnauba wax, I also think the Renaissance wax dries faster then the carnauba wax.

I have no way of testing which wax is the slickest, Its all personal opinion.

One thing I do like about the Renaissance wax is its not a problem if it gets on the wrap section and it has no acids.

I also checked the weight of the cue before and after sealing the cue with shellac and waxing , no change in weight.

I still need to test the synthetic polymer , the bees wax and orange oil, and a home made wax that I am going to mix up myself, and a petro product that contains allot of paraffin in it.

I will also test out just using wax paper.

 

[DAVE_M]

Cue Silk. That's all I will use until it is no longer sold.

Once a shaft has been properly sealed or waxed, it should not have to be waxed again, unless you are constantly using sandpaper or something like "Nick's edge".

 

[Sloppy Pockets]

It is my personal opinion that the Renaissance wax is slightly slicker then the carnauba wax, I also think the Renaissance wax dries faster then the carnauba wax.

I have no way of testing which wax is the slickest, Its all personal opinion.

One thing I do like about the Renaissance wax is its not a problem if it gets on the wrap section and it has no acids.

I also checked the weight of the cue before and after sealing the cue with shellac and waxing , no change in weight.

I still need to test the synthetic polymer , the bees wax and orange oil, and a home made wax that I am going to mix up myself, and a petro product that contains allot of paraffin in it.

I will also test out just using wax paper.

Back when I was refinishing guitars, I stripped the finish off an old Gibson that was trashed and saved all the lacquer and let it dry. Anybody familiar with the old Gibsons knows the finish was so thick it looked like cracked plate glass. Several months later I weighed the dried finish and it only weighed a few grams. Can't imagine any amount of shellac or wax adding measurable weight on something with such a small surface area as a shaft.

I think I'll give the Renaissance a try. You can get small jars for around $13. That should last quite a few years if just used on shafts. If you are interested in trying one of my carnuba-impregnated sheets of brown paper, send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one to compare with your other waxes.

BTW I used regular waxed paper on my linen wrap and it got too sticky to do a slip stroke with. Interested in finding out how it feels on a shaft.

 

[Dr_CollieCue]

I still need to test the synthetic polymer , the bees wax and orange oil, and a home made wax that I am going to mix up myself, and a petro product that contains allot of paraffin in it.

I will also test out just using wax paper.

In the automotive world, synthetic polymer sealants are known to last longer than waxes. I use Meguire's Ultimate Liquid Wax (which is a polymer sealant and not a wax, despite its name) - http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-wax.html. One of the Wed Diamond products like this one (http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-crystal-seal.html) or Pinnacle or Klasse should be fine also. A good source is Autogeek or Autopia.

Here are a couple of waxes known for being long-lasting. I don't know whether that translates into resisting wearing off due to friction of a type on a pool cue. If these don't last long enough, the bowling alley wax or a good wood floor polish/wax would seem to be a good alternative.

Collinite #885 Fleetwax - http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-fleetwax-.html - or #870, the liquid version. These would be my choice as fleetwax is known for its durability in the marine environment.

Collinite #845 - http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

pure polymer

In the automotive world, synthetic polymer sealants are known to last longer than waxes. I use Meguire's Ultimate Liquid Wax (which is a polymer sealant and not a wax, despite its name) - http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-wax.html. One of the Wed Diamond products like this one (http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-crystal-seal.html) or Pinnacle or Klasse should be fine also. A good source is Autogeek or Autopia.

Here are a couple of waxes known for being long-lasting. I don't know whether that translates into resisting wearing off due to friction of a type on a pool cue. If these don't last long enough, the bowling alley wax or a good wood floor polish/wax would seem to be a good alternative.

Collinite #885 Fleetwax - http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-fleetwax-.html - or #870, the liquid version. These would be my choice as fleetwax is known for its durability in the marine environment.

Collinite #845 - http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-insulator-wax-845.html

Here is a link about Meguiar's pure polymer car wax.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/synthetic-vs-polymer-mustang-wax.html.
Here is link to the wax
http://www.eastwood.com/meguiars-ultimate-paste-wax-g18211.html?fee=7&fep=49560?fee=5&fep=4990&SRCCODE=1SE1528&creative=5461472965&device=c&matchtype={MatchType}

I had to replace the ferrule and tip on one of my cues today and applied the Meguiars synthetic pure polymer paste wax. By far the best smelling wax of everything I have tested to this point.

I had stripe off the old wax and shellac with denatured alcohol and resealed the shaft with shellac/denatured alcohol 50/50 mix.
then used a scotch brite pad and buffed off the hi or un even surface of the dried shellac .

I applied the synthetic polymer and really worked it in.
It is the slowest drying of all the waxes that I have tested so far.
after about a hr I buffed of the wax.

Left a very slick and hard surface....
I also found out that polymer wax melting point is higher then carnauba.
I did research out renaissance wax MSDS sheet and they didn't post its melting point.
I would have to rate the synthetic polymer wax just as slick as the Renaissances wax.

Draw back is drying time ....

 

[Dr_CollieCue]

I had to replace the ferrule and tip on one of my cues today and applied the Meguiars synthetic pure polymer paste wax. By far the best smelling wax of everything I have tested to this point.

I applied the synthetic polymer and really worked it in.
It is the slowest drying of all the waxes that I have tested so far.
after about a hr I buffed of the wax.

Left a very slick and hard surface....

Draw back is drying time ....

It does smell good. Applying the Meguiars to cars or fiberglass, I use a very, very thin coat applied with a closed-cell foam pad, let it dry for a couple of minutes and then lightly wipe the excess off with a microfiber cloth. It is easy on and easy off that way. If you let it stay on the surface too long or apply too much, it is harder to buff off. I also don't think you have to work it in much. Ideally, you apply a second coat 12 hours or more later, although I normally just apply the second coat an hour or so later.

It does take a while to dry. The standard recommendation is to wait 12 hours before recoating to allow it to dry and maximize how long it will protect. I typically use a polymer sealant (the Meguiars) to seal the surface of a boat and then apply paste wax for more protection. The marine environment - sun and salt - is pretty harsh.

I will be interested to hear how well it holds up for you and will give it a try it on my cue.

 

[nme007]

I would love to hear if anyone has results from the Johnson Paste Wax in the yellow cans. Good? Bad?

 

[SouthernDraw]

First ...Clean & Seal !!!

More important than wax is a good sealer. First clean with denatured alcohol. Then, use a good sealer (I like Chris' Cue Sealer), burnish on a lathe and it will keep your shaft clean longer.

Wax just gives additional protection from chalk grit and hand oils. The wax I use is Butcher's. I polish several thin layers and it hardens better than anything that I've tried. I also like Chris' Cue Wax.

But, take your cue to a local cue repairman or cue maker and have it cleaned and seal once every 3 to 6 month's. Don't place the cue flat on the table (it it full of chalk and grim). I lean the butt on the bumper so the entire shaft isn't flat on the table picking up chalk. After every session, wipe off shaft with a clean towel. Do all of this and you will be surprised by how clean your shaft will stay.

 

[7forlife]

works good, does no harm to the cue

 

[FranCrimi]

I use straight carnuba wax right off the bar. I apply it by rubbing it vigorously onto a square of brown paper, then using a heat gun (hair dryer works) to melt it into the paper. Then I burnish the shaft real hard with the wax-laden paper, allowing the built-up heat from the friction to transfer a thin film of wax onto the wood.

Why do I like it? Because it makes the shaft slip through my bridge fingers like silk, without having to use powder or wear a glove, and it protects the shaft from a lot of chalk dust, and even from wear. My bridge hand can be an ugly blue mess at times, but my shaft has barely a hint of a blue patina on it, and I haven't waxed it in weeks.

If wax was wearing off onto my hand, it wouldn't still be on the stick protecting it. Unless maybe I used some of that new Russian Magic Wax.

I appreciate the explanation.

Been there, done it. Don't like it. I'll take clean, raw wood any day over wax.