Shafts

resistance is futile

I have been assimilated


Kim

That's the one.
A friend who makes harps was reluctant to let me have some wood for a cue as it was only seasoned for 5 years and had another 5 to go.
But I did get some 55,000 year old Kauri, that has been 25 years in the drying for the 1.5 inch thick pieces.
I was also surprised at the way he axe splits it to find the straightest grained wood. Then tone tested, it either makes instruments (pass) or becomes boxes for instruments (2nd chance).
 
resistance is futile

I have been assimilated

Kim
assimilated i dont know what that is,
but i'm pretty sure you can get an over the counter prescription for it :eek:
happy shaft cutting Kim, you'll love it!!!
 
Beating

The beatings will continue until moral improves......

Besides, you need some shafts hanging so your wife can use them for dowell rods in a school project......(shes a teacher). I was salmon fishing at the time....... What transpired after is censored, and drowned in crown n cokes. She asks even to enter the shop nowadays. BTW no wife was harmed in the making of this. at least physically.
 
It is my opinion that there are only so many variables to the shaft aging.
Stress and Moisture content. The results of stress you see quickly after turning. How the wood moves after aclamitaization takes time and depends on how big a change you are exposing the wood too. The bigger the change in environment the longer it will take to acclamatize. As this relates to shafts the problem is everytime you take a cut you expose a fresh layer of skin wich will absorb or release moisture which can cause it to move. The other variable is the smaller the dia the more the suface will affect the the shape of the shaft. This is why you can take big cuts anitialy and as the shft gets smaller your cuts get smaller. So...to make a long answer short. Acclamitaize your wood until you feel the wood has reached equilibrium and study the grain to give you an idea of how the stress will move the shaft. If a piece of wood has tight grain on one side and loose grain on the other it will have stress. Stress also can come from how the tree grew..on a hill etc..etc. There are lots of variables but it isnt rocket science. The longer you work with wood the more it will make sense.
 
By turning my own blanks from dowels to finished product, in my own shop, I know what I have and what to expect. I don't want to trust my reputation on someone else's turning parameters or whims at the time of filling orders.

Dick

Amen!!!!!!
 
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