Shape new cue tip?

D

Darkridder

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
When you get a new cue do you shape the tip? Or just use it how it is? Or are different tips shaped differently?

If it does need to be shaped what do you shape it like?

Thanks!
 
tip

Darkridder said:
When you get a new cue do you shape the tip? Or just use it how it is? Or are different tips shaped differently?

If it does need to be shaped what do you shape it like?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I always put a nickel radius on the tips I install.

I think it depends on the player, the cue or cue shaft, the brand of tip and the brand of chalk being used.
 
I usually play it "as is" until it could use some scuffing. Then I match it up to the nickel radius of my Last4Ever tip tool. If it looks "off" I'll use the tool to shape it.
 
So i looked into this a little by googling it and it seems most people shape to a nickel or a dime.. I have a new question now: will you get more spin out of the cueball if you have a more rounded tip?
 
tip shape

Darkridder said:
So i looked into this a little by googling it and it seems most people shape to a nickel or a dime.. I have a new question now: will you get more spin out of the cueball if you have a more rounded tip?
Click to expand...

Spin seems like it depends who is stroking the cue not the shape or the hardness of the tip.

I have gotten the most draw with my break cue with a phenolic tip
 
Darkridder said:
When you get a new cue do you shape the tip? Or just use it how it is? Or are different tips shaped differently?

If it does need to be shaped what do you shape it like?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I shape it by eye, try to get between a nickel and dime. That's how I prefer my tip at least haha.
 
However you decide to shape it, if you're using a curved piece of sandpaper, shape it by stroking the sandpaper one way up towards the center of the tip. Pulling down towards the ferrule can cause slight mushrooming.
 
I've always thought the thinner the shaft, the smaller the tip radius should be to make sure there is enough surface area contacting the cue ball to help prevent miscuing. 13mm tips should be about a nickel radius. 11mm tips should be more like a dime.

YMMV
 
I have Vague Doug the world famous tip guru from Evergreen Colorado do my tips.
He does have to shape the tip a little differently due to the altitude here in Denver.
 
measureman said:
I have Vague Doug the world famous tip guru from Evergreen Colorado do my tips.
He does have to shape the tip a little differently due to the altitude here in Denver.
Click to expand...

What does altitude have to do with the shape of a tip? I'd really like to know. I've heard of some strange things in my life.
 
The first thing I do when I get my cue....even a brand new custom cue.......is I treat the shafts. I burnish the shafts and apply 6-7 coats of Craftsman Cue Wax that
usually takes 1-2 days since I allow the wax to dry for a few hours......all of my pool cues' shafts are flawless and feel like satin and the shafts glide thru my fingers.

But before I tackle the shafts, I shape the tip....realizing that it's a new tip and as such, will require additional reshaping after being played.......NICKEL......that's my
cue tip shape but I do have a couple of cues with Dime shapes for when I play Snooker or 3 Cushion Billiards.......otherwise, strictly Nickel shape on my cue tips.

Matt B.

p.s. I play with Kamui Clear Black (Soft & Super-Soft)
 
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3andstop said:
However you decide to shape it, if you're using a curved piece of sandpaper, shape it by stroking the sandpaper one way up towards the center of the tip. Pulling down towards the ferrule can cause slight mushrooming.
Click to expand...



That is an important point in this discussion.
The OP should buy a mushroom tool before attempting any of the sanding upward or downward, or using any type of a tip shaping device.
 
J Soto said:
What does altitude have to do with the shape of a tip? I'd really like to know. I've heard of some strange things in my life.
Click to expand...


I'm part of the Evergreen crowd and I can tell you that a lot of strange shit can happen at this altitude, especially in Colorado
 
The picture you see before you has Willard shapers in both five, and ten cents. The nickle shapers are for standard (13 mm) to about 12.5 mm size shafts. The dime size for 12.5 and smaller, depending of course, on personal preference.
These tip shapers are the best, bar none, and will last for a very long time.
A word of caution: Do not place the shaper on the poolroom floor, holding it with a foot, and then jamming the entire cue into it. Simply hold the shaft in your right hand and the shaper in your left, then twist back and forth until the tip has a fresh surface, or vice versa if your are wrong handed. :smile:
 

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Darkridder said:
So i looked into this a little by googling it and it seems most people shape to a nickel or a dime.. I have a new question now: will you get more spin out of the cueball if you have a more rounded tip?
Click to expand...

That has been argued here before. You may want to do some searches.

I've played using spin for more than 4.5 decades. I use a soft tip with basically a 'flat' center with the edges just rounded a bit.

I think it depends on how far out from center you're willing & capable of going.

I don't want to argue. That's just what I do. To each his own.

Keep in mind that a soft tip compresses more than a hard tip for the same force of hit. The shape can affect where on the ball that the tp actually hits so one shape might do more for less offset while another shape may allow one to get farther out & not miscue.

It's not a simple subject.

Best 2 You & All,
Rick
 
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